MORNING CALM TALES Itaewon’s evolving soul, from military camptown to urban rhythms
When I discovered I’d be heading to Korea to teach in October 1990, it felt like stepping into uncharted territory. This was long before Lonely Planet's guidebooks and the internet made information readily available, so reliable details were scarce. Out of necessity, I contacted the Korea National Tourism Office in Chicago, and a thick envelope arrived a few weeks later. Its glossy brochures still resonated with the energy of the 1988 Olympics, showcasing Seoul’s grand palaces, picturesque countryside and bustling shopping districts. One tourist area, in particular, caught my attention: Itaewon. The photos depicted crowded sidewalks filled with shoppers, lined with vendors, shops, eateries and the familiar glow of American fast food signs — lively, exotic and yet comfortingly recognizable. Though I’d never walked those streets, Itaewon’s distinctly international vibe promised new experiences with some welcome reminders of home. One Sunday afternoon, just a week before Christmas, my colleague Ken — who’d taken me under his wing since my arrival — decided it was time I sa
Mar 1, 2025By Jeffrey Miller