RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK Geuni Sikdang offers a taste of North Korea in Cheonan
CHEONAN, South Chungcheong Province — In Cheonan, behind what can only be considered the most unassuming storefront in the country, lies a local favorite. This is Geuni Sikdang and it specializes in North Korean cuisine. Most will be familiar with Pyongyang naengmyeon (cold noodles), but this restaurant offers something a bit rarer: "eobok jaengban" (boiled meat platter). Eobok jaengban started in Pyongyang Market and was often shared when doing business deals to impress potential clients. It consists of beef brisket, beef broth, leafy vegetables and dumplings. When ours arrived, the beef cuts were splayed out beautifully around the outer edge of the pan and the fire underneath was immediately lit, both in the stovetop and in our appetites. We dug into the dumplings first and they were extremely subtle. A very mild kimchi was mixed in with tofu and bean sprouts. There was a surprising, yet welcome, parmesan flavor to the whole affair. The restaurant makes the broth every day and uses hanwoo 1++ Korean beef for this dish. Brisket and other “off-cuts” can be tough to use properly a