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Korean Temple Adventures

Chilbul Hermitage offers stunning rock carvings overlooking Gyeongju

There are several major and minor Buddhist temples in Korea that run very successful Templestay programs. These programs typically consist of a schedule in which participants can enjoy a wide variety of Buddhist activities like a temple tour, a tea ceremony with a monk or nun, Seon meditation or making a lotus lantern. However, when we set off on our odyssey across Mount Nam in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province, we ended up enjoying an unscheduled stay at a hermitage. First starting in the Samneung Valley and crossing over the peak of the mountain, we popped into Yaksu Valley, across to the Yongjang Temple Site, and finally arrived at our destination of Chilbul Hermitage. It was set up so that when we arrived, we could enjoy a bit of rest and relaxation after hiking over seven mountainous kilometers. Never was I so happy to see a temple or hermitage in all my life. Chilbul means “Seven Buddhas” in English. It’s located on the southeastern slopes of Mount Nam (495.1 m). Gyeongju, which was once known as Seorabeol, was the capital of Silla (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). However, the mod

May 30, 2025By Dale Quarrington
Chilbul Hermitage offers stunning rock carvings overlooking Gyeongju

3 temples to visit on Buddha's Birthday

Buddha’s Birthday in Korea is a wonderful day off to enjoy the sights, sounds and celebrations of Buddhism. For a lot of people, this means a visit to a local temple or hermitage. But if you really want to fully enjoy and appreciate Buddha’s Birthday this year, take advantage of the May 5 holiday to visit sites that are typically off-limits to the general public. Once a year, sites like the interior of Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju, the Geumgang Precept Platform at Tongdo Temple in Yangsan and Bongam Temple in Mungyeong, all three in North Gyeongsang Province, are open to the public. The holiday is a rare occasion when these areas, typically restricted, are open for everyone. Of the three, Seokguram Grotto is the most famous. Construction on the grotto began in 751 under Kim Daeseong (700-774), a chief minister of the Silla Kingdom(57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). The grotto was completed in 774, shortly after Kim’s death. According to the Samguk Yusa (Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms), Seokguram Grotto and neighboring Bulguk Temple were built to honor his parents. Usually, visitors to Seok

May 1, 2025By Dale Quarrington
[KOREAN TEMPLE ADVENTURES] 3 temples to visit on Buddha's Birthday

Loss of Goun Temple incalculable

Upon first hearing the news, it felt surreal. To some of us, it was almost like losing a close family member or a good friend. At 4:50 p.m. on Tuesday, Goun Temple in Uiseong, North Gyeongsang Province, was almost completely destroyed by the massive wildfires in the region. Historically, most major temples have been destroyed by at least one fire in their long pasts. However, because most of these fires were so long ago, they almost don’t seem real, as though they are located in an intangible past. This wildfire that consumed Goun Temple seems so much more real and raw. Goun Temple was established in 681 by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702). The site where Goun Temple was placed is said to resemble that of a half-bloomed lotus flower. While the temple's name originally meant "high cloud temple" in English, the meaning of Goun Temple changed to "lonely cloud temple." So while the temple has always been named Goun Temple and had the same pronunciation, the meaning of its name changed after it was visited by the great Confucian and Taoist scholar Choe Chi-won (857-?), whose pen name

Mar 26, 2025By Dale Quarrington
[KOREAN TEMPLE ADVENTURES] Loss of Goun Temple incalculable

Meeting the artist at Baekryeon Hermitage

I’ve made it a bit of a personal mission to visit all of the traditional temples in my home province of South Gyeongsang Province over the past year. In total, there are currently 105 of these traditional temples. This little mini-adventure of my own creation has brought me to cities big and small. But in the process of completing one task, you sometimes complete a couple of others along the way. Occasionally, I’ve been asked whether I know, or if it’s known, who created a certain painting or statue at a Korean temple or hermitage. And while it’s sometimes known, oftentimes it isn't. The perception I had about the creation of Buddhist artwork and artistry changed after a visit to one of the 105 traditional temples in South Gyeongsang Province. Baekryeon Hermitage is located on the eastern slopes of Mount Jigul (896.9 meters) in Uiryeong, South Gyeongsang Province. Baekryeon Hermitage, which means "White Lotus Hermitage" in English, is said to have been founded in 1317. During the 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty, it's said that Gwak Jae-u (1552–1617), who was known as the "Red Robe G

Mar 7, 2025By Dale Quarrington
[KOREAN TEMPLE ADVENTURES] Meeting the artist at Baekryeon Hermitage

Buseok Temple holds onto disputed statue before its return to Japan

It’s not often that two nations’ tumultuous past can be summed up in one single object, but such is the case for Japan and Korea and the Gilt-bronze Seated Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva statue of Buseok Temple in Seosan, South Chungcheong Province. Originally, the statue was enshrined at Buseok Temple in 1330, before being housed at Kannon Temple in Tsushima, Japan. The statue stands 50.5 centimeters in height and weighs 38.6 kilograms. There is considerable dispute as to how this statue of Avalokitesvara (Bodhisattva of Compassion) ended up in Japan. The Japanese claim that it was a gift to the monk who founded Kannon Temple when he traveled to the Korean Peninsula in 1527. Buseok Temple, on the other hand, claims that the statue was looted in 1378 by Japanese pirates. Buseok Temple in Seosan, which shouldn't be confused with the more famous Buseok Temple in Yeongju, North Gyeongsang Province, was established in 677 by the famed monk Uisang (625-702). Little is known about the temple's history except that it was rebuilt during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). According to the foundation

Mar 1, 2025By Dale Quarrington
[KOREAN TEMPLE ADVENTURES] Buseok Temple holds onto disputed statue before its return to Japan

Gwanseeum-bosal, the Bodhisattva of Compassion

The different Buddhas and Bodhisattvas can be quite confusing to identify. There is an entire pantheon of these figures in Korean Buddhism. On top of it, there are various shaman deities like the popular Sanshin (Mountain Spirit), Dokseong (Lonely Saint) and Chilseong (Seven Stars) to contend with, as well. However, probably the most striking image of the lot is the figure of Gwanseeum-bosal (Bodhisattva of Compassion). And with the troubles and difficulties facing the world today, she might be what the world needs a little more of in the New Year ahead.

Dec 21, 2024By Dale Quarrington
[KOREAN TEMPLE ADVENTURES] Gwanseeum-bosal, the Bodhisattva of Compassion

Dongguk Temple remains a reminder of Korea's tumultuous past

Like an unseemly scar, Dongguk Temple in Gunsan, North Jeolla Province, is hidden away in a side street just off the main road. Dongguk Temple is a rather peculiar-looking Korean Buddhist temple that doesn’t quite look like all the other traditional Buddhist temples in Korea. Dongguk Temple is one of only four Japanese-style Buddhist temples that was built during the 1910-45 Japanese occupation period that is still in existence in Korea.

Nov 9, 2024By Dale Quarrington
[KOREAN TEMPLE ADVENTURES] Dongguk Temple remains a reminder of Korea's tumultuous past
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