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British adventurer describes climbing halfway up Lotte World Tower

British adventurer George King poses on a publicly accessible roof in downtown Seoul, July 3. / Korea Times photo by Jon DunbarBy Jon DunbarGeorge King woke up early on June 12. It was still dark when he left his motel in southeastern Seoul's Jamsil area, but the weather was already alarmingly humid. Down the street he walked, about 1 kilometer away from his hotel, was Lotte World Tower, the sixth-tallest building in the world. His objective ― the entire reason he was in the country ― was to climb to the very top, barehanded and unassisted. Once reaching the top, 123 stories up, he planned to parachute down to a landing site he'd selected at a tennis court in a nearby apartment complex. “The plan was to climb it and BASE (buildings, antennae, spans/bridges and earth/cliffs) jump off it,” the British-born adventurer, 24, told The Korea Times. “My dream was to perform an urban freeBASE. To climb a skyscraper free solo and then jump from the top.”But he would end up going no farther than the 72nd floor.“There were issues along the way, mostly out of my cont

Jul 4, 2023By Jon Dunbar
British adventurer describes climbing halfway up Lotte World Tower

Danish-Korean band Meejah explores transnational roots

Danish-Korean band Meejah / Courtesy of Frej RosenstjerneBy Jon DunbarMeejah may sound like a Korean woman's name, but that's just a coincidence, because the Danish-Korean post-rock/experimental band actually gets its name from an alternative spelling of the word “media” (referring to the artist as a medium for inspiraetion, rather than to media outlets like this one). “Korean bands contacted me and told me, that it was a Korean girl name ― like my subconscious had led me to choosing that name ― without it being intentional,” Mai Soon Young Ovlisen, the band's vocalist, guitarist and singing bowls and bells performer, told The Korea Times. Mai is a Korean adoptee living in Denmark, where she was raised after being given up by her birth family in Korea as an infant. She is among the approximately 200,000 South Koreans to be sent away over the last six decades to be raised by adoptive families mostly in the U.S. and Europe. This background has fueled her musical creativity as she comes to terms with her transnational roots. “The adoption system is a conseq

Jul 4, 2023By Jon Dunbar
Danish-Korean band Meejah explores transnational roots

PINNACLE'S ITAEWON Seoul's best neighborhood for shisha

Den Hookah Lounge in Itaewon / Courtesy of Den Hookah LoungeBy Pinnacle TheHustlerIt should be public knowledge that Itaewon is the go-to place for indulging in the finest hookah experiences in Seoul. Whether you call it “hookah,” “shisha” or “the pipe,” shisha lovers in Seoul all want to know where to go to indulge in exceptional shisha experiences. In this article, we will explore three remarkable establishments that offer a variety of aesthetics, spirit options and sound crafting that contribute to a unique ambiance complemented by the engulfing clouds of quality shisha.Our first stop is Den Hookah Lounge, owned and operated by An Seong-chan (SC) and John Park. Since its opening on July 22, 2021, Den has gained a reputation for providing an exceptional shisha experience. Their commitment to excellence is evident in every meticulously prepared shisha, which caters to the preferences of their customers. Den boasts one of the industry's best hookah devices, the Wookah, ensuring a premium smoking affair. Despite the challenges faced by Itaewon recen

Jul 4, 2023By Jon Dunbar

LIFE'S OLLE TRAILS 5 Getting ice cream and umbrellas from strangers

Another day on the Jeju Olle trails of Jeju Island / Courtesy of Rachel StineBy Rachel StineSo what exactly happened on the Olle Trails? Route 3-B. Typhoon weather. I was trudging along the seaside without an umbrella, staring at the fish farms. Jindo dogs observed me from their plastic houses. A Vietnamese farmer slowed his car down and pulled over next to me, sticking an umbrella out the window.Route 3-B. The same day and weather. A cafe owner saw me outside and insisted I should come in and have free ice cream. In Korean, he explained that the ferry to Udo Island had been canceled because of the typhoon, and didn't I know typhoons were dangerous, and shouldn't I invest in some hiking boots, because didn't I know about the snakes, and what if I did get bitten by a snake, who would I call then, and why didn't I go to CU for a poncho, anyway?Gotta be careful out there.Route 6. A woman waved me over to her parked sedan in front of the ocean. She gave me three fat tangerines.Route 18-1, around 11:30 a.m. A group of old backpackers poured me makgeolli in paper cups and gave me red bean

Jul 2, 2023By Jon Dunbar
[LIFE'S OLLE TRAILS 5] Getting ice cream and umbrellas from strangers

Richard Folsom Underwood - A life of quiet victory

A newspaper clipping of Lieutenant Richard F. Underwood, interpreter, during the Korean War. Courtesy of Richard Underwood, “What a fun LIFE!”By Robert NeffI never met Richard Folsom Underwood in person, but I have corresponded with him on several occasions over the last six or seven years. He was always kind enough to answer my incessant questions about life in Korea prior to World War II and provided honest criticism of my writing ― pointing out my far-too-frequent errors. He also provided me with a copy of his autobiography, “What a Fun LIFE.”Born in Seoul on June 9, 1927, his arrival was not especially welcomed by his three older brothers who desired a sister and indignantly pointed out to their mother that “every respectable family has at least one girl!” She eventually placated them when she provided them with a kid sister some two years later. His early years were filled with picnics, sailing on the Han River or along the coast, hunting in the mountains and life lessons taught with reasoning and an occasional spanking. There was also a degre

Jul 2, 2023

Haebangchon's dual protections fade away

Downhill from central Seoul's Haebangchon neighborhood, buildings inside U.S. Army Garrison Yongsan can be seen, Nov. 13, 2018. To the left is Dragon Hill Lodge, and to the right is the Korean Ministry of National Defense compound, which has since become the presidential office. / Korea Times photo by Jon DunbarThis article is the third part in a three-part series about the past, present and future of central Seoul's Haebangchon (HBC) neighborhood.By Jon DunbarThere's one big factor driving changes in Yongsan District including Haebangchon (HBC), and it's something that's inevitable. The redeployment of U.S. military forces out of U.S. Army Garrison (USAG) Yongsan down south to USAG Humphreys in Pyeongtaek, Gyeonggi Province, means that this is no longer a military area. “In Seoul, demilitarization has led to urban dispossessions ― which is not how most people think about it,” said Bridget Martin, a Croft Assistant Professor of Anthropology and Korean Studies at the University of Mississippi, who has studied U.S. Forces Korea redeployment extensively. The 2004 announcemen

Jul 2, 2023By Jon Dunbar
Haebangchon's dual protections fade away

Richard Underwood passes away at age 96

Richard Underwood, left, poses with his brothers John Underwood, center, and Horace Underwood III at Panmunjeom in 1953. Korea Times ArchiveBy Peter UnderwoodRichard (Dick) Underwood, grandson of pioneer missionaries Horace Grant Underwood (1859-1916) and Lilias Horton Underwood (1851-1921), son of Horace H. and Ethel Van Wagoner Underwood, passed away of heart failure in Urbana, Illinois, on June 25. He is survived by his wife Carol Lutz Underwood, children Frederick, Marilyn, David and Elizabeth, nine grandchildren and his sister Grace Underwood Harkness.Richard was born in Seoul on June 9, 1927, and grew up in the city attending Seoul Foreign School (SFS) where his mother was the first teacher. He graduated from Hamilton College in New York and obtained his master's from Columbia University. Richard served in the Office of Strategic Services and the United States Army at the close of World War II and again during the 1950-53 Korean War. Along with his eldest brother Horace, he served as an interpreter during the armistice talks that ended the Korean War. Richard was decorated with

Jun 30, 2023By Jon Dunbar
Richard Underwood passes away at age 96

Rabbithole Arcade Pub's drag shows welcome all - but watch your liver

The door to Rabbithole Arcade Pub shows the rabbit and terrapin, characters from an ancient legend, underwater beneath central Seoul's Mount Nam. A message written over the door warns all who enter to watch out for their livers. / Courtesy of Rabbithole Arcade PubBy Jon DunbarIt's the Year of the Rabbit, that quick and crafty little mammal that escapes from the Dragon King who wants to eat its liver. People entering Rabbithole Arcade Pub in central Seoul's Haebangchon (HBC) neighborhood are similarly advised to watch out for their livers, in a warning written in Korean above the front door. Yes, the rabbit motif of the place comes from that traditional story, not “Alice in Wonderland” like one might assume. Rabbithole is the only bar in HBC that offers weekly drag shows, every Friday and Saturday. Shows typically feature three drag performers giving two sets on Fridays, and about double the number of performers doing three sets on Saturdays. There's also plenty of audience interaction, with games for audience members between drag performances and a dance battle at the end

Jun 27, 2023By Jon Dunbar
Rabbithole Arcade Pub's drag shows welcome all - but watch your liver

Comedian from Poland comes to Seoul for stand-up set

Peter Szumowski, a stand-up comedian and YouTuber from Poland / Courtesy of Peter SzumowskiBy Jon DunbarPeter Szumowski, a stand-up comedian and YouTuber from Poland, is coming to Korea to take the stage at The Studio HBC this Friday.Poland may not have a stand-up scene as big as New York or London, however, Szumowski told The Korea Times that the country does have a tight-knit community of stand-up comedians.“Poland might not be widely known for its comedic reputation, but hey, we Poles have a wicked sense of humor once you get to know us,” Szumowski told The Korea Times. “We have a rich cultural heritage, a history full of quirks and a language that can make even the simplest sentence sound like a tongue twister. Embracing your Polish identity can be a comedic goldmine. And hey, who doesn't love a good Polish joke, right? Just remember to keep it light-hearted and inclusive!”Szumowski might be a hard name for non-Central Europeans to pronounce, but his name is still known far and wide, after receiving over 6.2 million views for his YouTube special. “Ah

Jun 26, 2023By Jon Dunbar
Comedian from Poland comes to Seoul for stand-up set

Haebangchon contains layers of history

Central Seoul's Haebangchon is located uphill of U.S. Army Garrison Yongsan / Korea Times photo by Jon DunbarThis article is the second part in a three-part series about the past, present and future of central Seoul's Haebangchon (HBC) neighborhood. By Jon DunbarThroughout its history, central Seoul's Haebangchon (HBC) neighborhood has always been welcoming to migrants and the vulnerable in search of a place to call home. It's somewhat well-known that HBC got its name, translated in English to “Liberation Village,” due to its origins as a refugee camp. Two photos on display in an alley of Haebangchon show past and present views of the neighborhood. / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar“Haebangchon is an urban neighborhood mostly formed by the temporary settlement of refugees from North Korea after the Korean War as well as domestic immigrants from the southern part of the Korean Peninsula,” said GwangYa Han, a professor of urban design at Dongguk University. Its establishment was made possible due to its proximity to Seoul Station, which at the time was the termin

Jun 25, 2023By Jon Dunbar
Haebangchon contains layers of history
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