The Korea Times

Coming to the rescue in 1884: Part 3

The west gate of Seoul circa 1900s   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffIn the previous article we ended as Captain Ferdinand H. Morsel arrived at the American legation to escort Dr. Horace N. Allen to the Korean Customs Office to treat the badly injured Korean prince. According to Allen's diary, “He was called ― from his home ― on the evening of the 5th to see Min Yeong-ik again, he was still at Mollendorff's and I saw him twice in the evening and once early the next morning. The afternoon of the 6th (Sat.) we were quietly enjoying our pleasant home when a messenger came from General Foote [Lucius Foote, the American Minister to Korea] telling us to come at once to their place. We did so and I returned for clothing after seeing Fannie [his wife] and the baby safe at the 'Top Side House' at the Legations where the Footes and Astons [British representative and his family], Mr. T. E. Hallifax and family, Townsend and family and Mr. John B. Bernadou who had charge of affairs.” Allen's diary supports some of Morsel's accounts. As Morsel had noted, on two occasions

Dec 11, 2021By Robert Neff

Opinion

Coming to the rescue in 1884: Part 2

Korean officials in the winter of 1883-84   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffOn Dec. 5 and 6, 1884, Seoul was a sea of chaos. As Captain Ferdinand H. Morsel and his two companions, Captain Fritz W. Schultz and Ernst Laporte, made their way warily through the streets, they were alarmed at how violent the “Land of the Morning Calm” had become.“As we passed from the wide street at the Great Bell into a small alley which leads into Pak-dong, then the headquarters of the Customs House, we were suddenly surprised by bearing the rush of a mob of yelling Koreans near us and soon saw a Japanese running for dear life into one of the small streets leading into Pak-dong with the yelling mass at his heels. In spite of his efforts to escape he was soon overtaken and fell a victim to the fury of the mob, as did so many others of his countrymen during that reign of terror.”The three men were able to make their way to the safety of the Customs House where they found their superior, Paul Georg von Mollendorff, his German assistant Henry George Arnous, James F. Mitc

Dec 5, 2021By Robert Neff

Opinion

Customs officers taking on a coup in 1884: Part 1

The Customs House at Jemulpo in 1913   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffAt around five in the morning on Dec. 4, 1884, Capt. Ferdinand H. Morsel (a 39-year-old German national working for the Korean Customs at Jemulpo [modern Incheon] as a boat officer) noticed a detachment of Japanese soldiers and “many Japanese civilians, under arms, left for Seoul.” It was noteworthy but not overly alarming as rumors had been circulating in the port that there was a disturbance in the capital. Few, however, paid much attention as rumors of unrest and disturbances in Korea were quite common.Later, that evening, Morsel heard rumors ― originating from the residence and office of the senior Korean official of the port ― that there really was a disturbance in Seoul and that some of the Korean officials had been killed. Morsel contemplated notifying his superior, Alfred Burt Stripling (the Commissioner of Customs at the port), but decided against it as “he [Stripling] would be better informed than I.” He was wrong.On Thursday afternoon, at about 2:30 p.m., two German

Dec 4, 2021By Robert Neff

Customs officers taking on a coup in 1884: Part 1

Opinion

Empress Myeongseong's Funeral procession: Part 3

Deoksu Palace circa 1910-20   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffOn Nov. 22, 1897, Empress Myeongseong was finally laid to rest in her tomb just outside of Seoul. The Independent ― a newspaper published in Seoul ― declared that the funeral was a “remarkable event [that] will never be forgotten by those who took part in it in any capacity.” It added, “We are glad the great function passed off without any hitch and that the weather was so favorable.”The newspaper, however, was not quite telling the truth. There had been many hitches both before and during the event.Shortly after her murder, the spirit of the empress was said to have grown restless and appeared in the room where her remains were kept. Two servants were literally frightened to death ― at least according to one newspaper account.When her remains were moved to Deoksu Palace in September 1896, there were further fatal incidents. A pallbearer was crushed while carrying the hearse and a small boy was killed as the procession passed the front of the palace. A couple of days later, the main be

Nov 28, 2021By Robert Neff

Empress Myeongseong's Funeral procession: Part 3

Opinion

Postcards Home from Korea

A postcard of the Seven Star Gate at Pyongyang in 1909 sent by Mary Armstrong to a friend   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffFor many Americans, the holiday season has begun. Millions of people ― despite the pandemic ― will travel throughout the United States to celebrate the holidays of Thanksgiving and Christmas with their families and friends. Considering this is the 400th article of this series and the start of the holiday season, I thought it would be nice to look at postcards sent by Americans in Korea to families back home.It is amazing how similar postcards from the past resemble postcards of the present (well, at least before the internet). In October 1921, a visitor to Seoul named Ruth jotted a quick note to her family in Fukuoka, Japan:“Dear Family, Wish you were here to go sightseeing with me. This is a pretty city, more American-like than Fukuoka. Enjoyed a trip uptown this p.m. found several things to take home. Beautiful linen suited for curtains, scarfs, etc. Cheap, if you want some I'll bring you a bolt.”A postcard of Mokpo in the 1900s 

Nov 27, 2021By Robert Neff

Opinion

Empress Myeongseong's funeral procession: Part 2

The road leading to Empress Myeongseong's tomb in the early 1900s   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffThe funeral procession made its way through the city and out the East Gate where it slowly but steadily made its final push to the tomb site. As mentioned yesterday, the foreign representatives did not accompany the funeral procession so their accounts to their respective governments lacked any description of the procession's progress through the city and instead enclosed clippings from the English-language edition of The Independent.When the funeral procession reached the tomb site, the imperial coffin was placed in the main sacrificial building at the foot of the hill leading to the mausoleum. It remained here ― lying in this state ― until the emperor and the crown prince arrived and the final part of the funeral would be concluded.Emperor Gojong and the crown prince (guarded by Korean soldiers and four Russian non-commissioned officers) ― and accompanied by the foreign diplomats and their guests ― arrived a few hours later. The diplomats were each “provided with

Nov 21, 2021By Robert Neff

Empress Myeongseong's funeral procession: Part 2

Empress Myeongseong's funeral procession: Part 1

Opinion

Empress Myeongseong's funeral procession: Part 1

A funeral procession ― possibly Emperor Gojong's ― in 1919   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffIn the fall of 1897, daily sacrifices were made at Deoksu Palace, officials ― in mourning dress ― were familiar sights in the streets, and the songs of the laborers were heard day and night as they constructed the items needed for the imperial funeral of Empress Myeongseong (Queen Min), who had been assassinated in her palace just a little over two years earlier. Finally, on Saturday, Nov. 21, the final preparations were completed. The funeral, which was to begin at dawn on Sunday, promised to be blessed with balmy and bright weather. Crowds gathered in front of the palace and along the route leading to the imperial tomb. Gorgeous silk banners and pennants fluttered in the air and red, silk-covered lanterns lined the street leading from the palace to the East Gate (Dongdaemun).Throughout the night, officials, soldiers and residents waited in the streets for the funeral to begin. Of course, not everyone was idle.“Groups of lantern carriers sat under their silky illuminaries

Nov 20, 2021By Robert Neff

Empress Myeongseong's funeral procession: Part 1

Empress Myeongseong's funeral procession: Part 2

Opinion

110 years of discomfort, danger on Korea's buses

Seoul in 1957 with buses seen in the background / Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffEverywhere you look in Korea, there are buses. In 2018, there were about 47,500 buses and they carried 5.97 billion total passengers in 2019. These figures are truly impressive, but not overly surprising, considering how Korea's bus system is very modern and convenient, relatively comfortable (there is even free Wi-Fi) and inexpensive. For many, buses are an indispensable part of daily life.The first bus service in Korea was established in 1912 by a Japanese company. According to Andrei Lankov, “these buses seated a scanty eight passengers on their bone-jerking wooden seats and crude suspension,” and operated between Masan (now part of Changwon) and Jinju, both in South Gyeongsang Province. The next bus service was established in Daegu in July 1920 and it wasn't until April 22, 1928, that Seoul established its own service.Seoul's bus company had 10 buses ― each capable of carrying 12 passengers ― operating along four routes in the city. In the summer, they operated from 6 a.m. until 10 p

Nov 14, 2021By Robert Neff

110 years of discomfort, danger on Korea's buses

Opinion

Perfect and poor teeth in Joseon

King Gojong in the winter of 1883-84 / Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffWhen Harmon V.S. Peake, an American missionary, visited Fusan (modern Busan) in 1891, he seemingly took great pleasure in describing in his diary what he perceived as the backwardness of his Korean hosts but grudgingly described one young Korean lady as having “sparkling dark eyes, smiling, cherry lips and perfect teeth.” He was not the only American visitor in the late 19th and early 20th centuries who chastised Koreans on one hand for poor hygiene, but on the other hand, praised them for their brilliantly white and well-maintained teeth ― which contrasted decidedly with many of the Westerners' teeth. However, not all Koreans had perfect teeth. Americans who had the pleasure of attending functions at the palace or personal intervals with the monarch often described the royal family as having bad teeth. The Korean emperor in the early 1900s / Robert Neff CollectionOn Nov. 2, 1903, Emperor Gojong had his first encounter with an American dentist. While dining on some improperly cleaned clams, the emp

Nov 13, 2021By Robert Neff

Opinion

Thai shipwreck surviors met with kindness

Gunsan in the early 1900s. Courtesy of Diane Nars CollectionBy Robert NeffOne morning in early November 1880, the residents of Yeondo ― a small island off the coast of Gunsan ― were surprised to discover a large number of foreigners struggling ashore from a sinking ship. They were the survivors of the Kim Yuen Tae (or Kim Yuen Tye) ― a 329-ton Siamese (Thai) barque.The ship, under the command of Captain Paul Julius Kofoed, had a crew of fourteen Thais, one Hawaiian and at least twelve Chinese sailors. In addition to the crew, there were Kofoed's Thai wife and their child, and the Danish boatswain's Thai wife.Captain Kofoed, a son of a fisherman, was born in Bornholm. Denmark on July 6, 1828. At some point ― at least by 1861 ― he made his way to Siam (modern Thailand) where he served as captain on a number of ships. It would be safe to assume that Kofoed was a very experienced captain ― especially in the southern part of Asia. On October 27, 1880, the Kim Yuen Tae sailed out of the Chinese northeastern port of Newchwang (modern Yingkou) bound for Hong Kong. Things went well for the fi

Nov 6, 2021By Robert Neff

Robert Neff

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Coming to the rescue in 1884: Part 3

Coming to the rescue in 1884: Part 2

Customs officers taking on a coup in 1884: Part 1

Empress Myeongseong's Funeral procession: Part 3

Postcards Home from Korea

Empress Myeongseong's funeral procession: Part 2

Empress Myeongseong's funeral procession: Part 1

110 years of discomfort, danger on Korea's buses

Perfect and poor teeth in Joseon

Thai shipwreck surviors met with kindness

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