The Korea Times

The writing on the wall

A street view in the early 1900s   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffIn the past (late 19th and early 20th centuries), Western visitors often described the homes of average Korean citizens as dingy, rough and unappealing. They were devoid of gardens, decorations and even paint. Isabella Bird Bishop, an Englishwoman who traveled extensively throughout the peninsula in the 1890s, wrote about the homes she passed while traveling along the streams and ditches of Seoul:“[They] are generally hovels with deep eaves and thatched roofs, presenting nothing to the street but a mud wall, with occasionally a small paper window, just under the roof, indicating the men's quarters, and invariably, at a height varying from 2 to 3 feet above the ditch, a blackened smoke-hole, the vent for the smoke and heated air, which have done their duty in warming the floor of the house ... Even the superior houses, which have curved and tiled roofs, present nothing better to the street than this debased appearance.”Two boys peer in from the street in Seoul, 1954.   Robert Neff Co

Apr 23, 2023By Robert Neff

Opinion

Yongsan History Museum - A Window into the Past

The Yongsan ferry landing in the 1890s, seen in a Yongsan History Museum exhibit   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffIt is no secret that Seoul is filled with coffee shops; they are everywhere and often right next to one another. They are so common that one barely notices them. Surprisingly, Seoul also has a large number of museums, which ― like the coffee shop ― are often passed by unnoticed.I have a great affinity for coffee shops and museums ― especially those with a past and that breathe history. Recently, while searching for a place to get a good cup of coffee, I encountered the Yongsan History Museum.I was quite surprised with this museum. I was the only visitor (it was early on a Wednesday morning) and so I was able to enjoy my step back into the past in solitude. It is a past that deserves to be remembered ― especially by a foreigner ― because Yongsan has a long history with Americans and Japanese.The flooded streets of Yongsan in 1925, seen in a Yongsan History Museum exhibit   Robert Neff CollectionThe museum is housed in the former Yongsan Railroad Ho

Apr 22, 2023By Robert Neff

Yongsan History Museum - A Window into the Past

Opinion

Dark denizens of the river

The Han River and its newest bridge in the late fall of 2021   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffThe Han River is the soul of Seoul. Its majestically divides the city into two parts ― the north side of the city, grittier but rich with history; and the south side, flashier, newer and wealthier. It was the highway through which goods ― rice and fuel ― were supplied to the city, and a line of defense during times of war.But times have changed and it no longer serves those purposes. Now the river is a sanctuary for residents of the city: a place to ride bicycles, picnic, watch the sunset, water ski, kayak, windsurf or just hold hands with that special someone while enjoying each other's company. Yet, even sanctuaries have their dangers ― at least they allegedly did in the past.The tigers are gone but occasionally one still finds a wolf lurking about the river. This one was seen in Yeouido in the summer of 2021.   Robert Neff CollectionWolves and tigers roamed the banks of the river ― hunting not only wild boars, deer and small mammals but also the occasional human.

Apr 16, 2023By Robert Neff

Opinion

Rogues of the Han River

Two accused criminals appear before a magistrate in Jemulpo in the early 1900s.   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffWinter arrived early in 1891. Perhaps the temperature did not drop as low as it had in other years but this time it was colder than usual. The threatening weather caused the Korean boats that usually plied the Han River to be stored earlier than normal, which had an immense impact on trade between the port of Jemulpo (modern Incheon) and the capital. Usually in the winter, when the river froze over, oxen were used to transport goods ― especially firewood and coal ― but an epidemic of rinderpest the summer before had decimated the cattle population on the peninsula. Coolies (porters) were the only option for moving goods but with their increased demand came increased prices. Adding to the woes of a large part of the foreign community in Seoul was the flu ― its rapid spread through the community was likely helped by the cold weather and the lack of heating fuel.One resident in Seoul remarked, “The number of those who will breathe freer when the river ope

Apr 15, 2023By Robert Neff

Opinion

Justice at the British Legation in 1898: Constable James Stewart O'Neil: Part 2

There were many English travelers to Korea in the late 19th century. Most of them were well-mannered and were able to travel throughout the peninsula as this man did in the 1880s.  Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffOn July 7, 1898, James Stewart O'Neil, the constable at the English legation Seoul, went on trial for the death of Lee Gyeong-pil ― a Korean employee of the same legation. It was alleged that O'Neil became infuriated with Lee's lackadaisical performance of his duties and beat the young man so severely that he died a few days later. O'Neil denied ever striking the man and, after a trial lasting some 11 hours, a jury of his English peers found him innocent. While the foreign community was happy with the verdict, another English man (with an impossibly long name), Alfred Frederick Augustus William Busby, reignited the fire when he let his temper get the best of him.On July 8, at about 6:30 p.m., a violent incident took place at Gorshalki Store in the Jeong-dong area of Seoul. This store catered to the foreign community and enjoyed a degree of fame for its Western good

Apr 10, 2023By Robert Neff

Justice at the British Legation in 1898: Constable James Stewart O'Neil: Part 2

Justice at the British Legation in 1898: Constable James Stewart O'Neil: Part 1

Opinion

Justice at the British Legation in 1898: Constable James Stewart O'Neil: Part 1

The British legation in 1905 from A.G. Hyde Lay's book “Four Generations in China, Japan and Korea (1952). A very interesting read of diplomatic life in the 19th and early 20th centuries.By Robert NeffIn the late 19th century, many Koreans sought employment with foreign business firms, missionaries or various legations. Not only were the salaries better than those offered by Korean employers, but there were also a number of fringe benefits such as medical care, the opportunity to learn foreign languages and cultures, and, at times, elevated social status ― which could often be monopolized legally or illegally.Lee Gyeong-pil was no different. He was a young Korean coolie (porter or day laborer) who applied for a job at the English Legation in Seoul in the spring of 1898. With the exception of a strong back, it isn't clear what qualifications he possessed ― in fact, we know very little about his life, except that it was short.It is, of course, an assumption that Lee was happy to be hired on May 2 and began work immediately as an outside man ― a menial who ran errands and maintain

Apr 9, 2023By Robert Neff

Justice at the British Legation in 1898: Constable James Stewart O'Neil: Part 1

Justice at the British Legation in 1898: Constable James Stewart O'Neil: Part 2

Opinion

Treasures along the River: Anyang's Manan Bridge

Manan Bridge and its stele house in February 2023   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffIn the late 19th century, there were not that many permanent bridges outside of Seoul and its immediate vicinity. Most of the larger rivers and streams were either crossed by small ferries or by temporary bridges ― the smaller bridges were made from pine branches and earth while the larger bridges were made from timber, trunks and branches from trees.During the rainy seasons, residents in the area would often dismantle the bridges to prevent them from being swept away by floods. James S. Gale, a missionary from Canada, explained that during “the 6th moon (of the lunar year) the (temporary bridges were) pulled up by official order, and (were) only replaced at about the beginning of the 9th moon.”Once the bridges were pulled up, travel in the interior became much more difficult as the travelers and their ponies were forced to wade through the water, which often resulted in an unwanted bath due to a misplaced step or slippery rock. Pedestrians and bicyclists share the single lan

Apr 2, 2023By Robert Neff

Treasures along the River: Anyang's Manan Bridge

Opinion

Treasures along the River: Guardian trees of Anyang

An image of the Grandfather Tree is seen on a nearby signboard at the site.By Robert NeffTrees are often in the background ― ignored as merely props and decorations ― in the image, but sometimes they are the story.  Robert Neff CollectionOn July 8, 1977, Mother Nature unleashed her fury upon the Anyang region with more than 46 centimeters of rain within a short period of time ― most of the rain fell in only five hours. The devastation was overwhelming as mudslides and floods destroyed villages, wiped away over 100 bridges and killed and injured hundreds of people.Very few places in the region escaped unharmed but no lives were lost in Sammak Village. Many people attribute this to the Grandfather and Grandmother Trees ― the village's two arboreal guardians. The Grandfather Tree, a zelkova, stands along one of the village's streams ― a position it has occupied for more than 500 years. A picture on a nearby signboard shows the tree in its former glory ― somewhat majestic with a canopy of leaves ― but my visit in early February revealed only the crippled remains, propped up and surr

Apr 1, 2023By Robert Neff

Treasures along the River: Guardian trees of Anyang

Opinion

Unrest on Island of World Peace in 1903

Over the last couple of decades, Jeju has often been called the Island of World Peace. But in the spring of 1903, it was anything but peaceful to the small Japanese community ― at least according to the Japanese press.

Mar 26, 2023By Robert Neff

Opinion

Horace N. Allen: Joseon's foreign royal physician

King Gojong in early 1884.  Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert Neff“The position of court physician [in the mid-1880s] was no sinecure,” especially if you were a foreigner, declared Horace N. Allen in one of his many publications of life in Korea.Allen's romanticized memories juxtaposed with the heroizing narrative of his biographer (Fred Harvey Harrington) provide an amusing ― if not exaggerated ― account of life as a foreign physician to the royal family.Allen was granted this powerful position, not because of his political connections, but because of his merit ― he had the expertise that was needed at the right time: He successfully nursed Min Yong-ik from his near-fatal injuries received during the failed Gapsin Coup in December 1884. Judging from Allen's diary, Prince Min was demanding, weak and whiny, and lacked moral fortitude and courage. Some may argue that Allen's observations were tinged with exaggeration (I am not sure why Allen would feel compelled to exaggerate in his own private diary), but I have little doubt Min was a most-trying patient. Allen's reputa

Mar 25, 2023By Robert Neff

Robert Neff

Read more

The writing on the wall

Yongsan History Museum - A Window into the Past

Dark denizens of the river

Rogues of the Han River

Justice at the British Legation in 1898: Constable James Stewart O'Neil: Part 2

Justice at the British Legation in 1898: Constable James Stewart O'Neil: Part 1

Treasures along the River: Anyang's Manan Bridge

Treasures along the River: Guardian trees of Anyang

Unrest on Island of World Peace in 1903

Horace N. Allen: Joseon's foreign royal physician

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