The Korea Times

Gangmae Village: Bridging the past with the present

With the shifting of Changneung Stream waterway and the construction of larger bridges, Gangmae Bridge in May 2023 is now merely a picturesque relic of the past. Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffIf you are a bicyclist in Seoul and enjoy riding on the northern bank of the Han River near Haengju Mountain Fortress, you are probably aware of Gangmae Village and its surrounding fields of rapeseed flowers and rice paddies ― but if not, you are truly missing a wonderful opportunity to temporarily step back in time.One of the highlights of the area is a rather simple old building with a blue-tiled roof that doubles as a small roadside restaurant and supermarket. It is very reminiscent of the mom-and-pop supermarkets that were ubiquitous in the small towns and villages throughout the peninsula in the 1980s. The shop's offering of goods ― mainly candy, chips and drinks ― are kept behind the proprietor ― much like the small shops in the late 19th century. In addition to the snacks, the establishment also offers a limited menu of simple foods such as dumplings, instant noodles, Korean pancake

Sep 11, 2023By Robert Neff

Gangmae Village: Bridging the past with the present

Opinion

Korean criminals make Americans grow more vigilant despite Joseon curfew in 1885

A large group of Koreans in the market became the prey of Lowell's camera and have forever been immortalized. Image by Percival Lowell in 1884.  Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffWhen Percival Lowell, an American, wrote about his stay in Seoul in the winter of 1883-84, he frequently mentioned the curfew that was imposed at night and how it contributed to the safety of the city's residents. One night at midnight, while sitting alone in his room, he poetically described nocturnal Seoul:“Of a sudden, across the deathlike stillness comes the boom of the great bell. It cannot startle anything so dead; it only intensifies a silence it is powerless to dispel. There is something weird in it, as it finds me the only one to hearken to its sound. It marks, I know, the middle of the night; and then it is lost again in the universal hush. At intervals, as the hours come round, I can hear for a moment the tinkle of the watchman's bell, and the clank of his chains as he paces his beat within the courtyards; and then all is once more quiet, and the city seems its own vast tomb.”Al

Aug 26, 2023By Robert Neff

Korean criminals make Americans grow more vigilant despite Joseon curfew in 1885

Opinion

Gyeonghuigung - a palace of water and prayers

The modern view of Gyeonghui Palace 132 years after Landor's visit. Still searching for rain.  Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffNot everyone who rode a donkey was able to influence the weather.  Robert Neff CollectionAlthough Henry Savage Landor found Gyeonghui Palace intriguing with its tales of ghosts and occasional sightings of leopards and tigers, he did not find it to be a Palace of Serene Harmony. In fact, he found it deafening as he and his hosts, the Greathouses, were subjected to the “most diabolical noises” made by “several men and numberless children” as they beat on huge drums and shouted as loud as they could whilst praying for rain.In his book, Landor wrote:“From sunrise until sunset this goes on, unless some stranded cloud happens to appear on the horizon, when the credit of such a phenomenon is awarded to their diabolical howls, and cash subtracted from landed proprietors as a reward for their having called the attention of the weather-clerk.” The weather clerk, or astrologer, was a “spectacled wise-man” who

Aug 20, 2023By Robert Neff

Gyeonghuigung - a palace of water and prayers

Opinion

Gyeonghuigung: a foreigner's account

The beauty and magic of Gyeonghui Palace in 2023.  Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffArguably, one of the least known and appreciated palaces in Seoul is Gyeonghuigung ― the Palace of Serene Harmony. Despite being within walking distance of city hall and located right next door to the Seoul Museum of History, it is rare to see more than a handful of people ― especially tourists ― wandering through the serenity of the palace grounds.Even in the late 19th century, the palace ― for the most part ― was unappreciated and often overlooked. Of course, the Western residents of Seoul knew of the palace and often made it their destination for their daily walks, but few of them bothered to write much about the palace or its human inhabitants. When it was mentioned, it was generally referred to as the Mulberry Palace ― due to the extensive mulberry orchard that had been planted in a bid to develop a Korean silk industry ― and invariably described as being haunted by vengeful spirits or the hunting ground for tigers and leopards.The palace grounds, once the playground for evil spirits and

Aug 19, 2023By Robert Neff

Opinion

Evans' visit to Seoul: part 2

Deoksu Palace in the early 20th century     Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffWhen Admiral Robley D. Evans of the United States Navy visited Seoul on Aug. 8, 1902, he was very impressed with the American Legation. He described Horace Allen's residence as being “a charming, refined house full of exquisite old things.” He was undoubtedly correct. Allen was known for his various Korean collections (mainly pottery) and for his tendency to gossip. I can easily imagine Allen regaling the American naval officer with all sorts of tidbits he had gleaned from his friends, staff, servants and his own imagination. In his memoirs, the admiral described Korea as being backward and conservative but the Korean monarch as being somewhat progressive. In a somewhat amusing manner, he explained that Gojong, “finding himself only a king, while his ruling neighbor on the one side was an emperor (from Japan) and on the other an empress (from China), he proceeded to declare that he also would be an emperor.” According to the admiral, Gojong appropriated a very large

Aug 6, 2023By Robert Neff

Opinion

Admiral Robley Evans' visit to Seoul in 1902: Part 1

In early August 1902, Horace N. Allen, the American minister to Korea, received a message from Admiral Robley D. Evans informing him that the American fleet would arrive in Jemulpo (modern Incheon) on Aug. 6. The admiral added that he would appreciate it if Allen could arrange for him and his naval officers to have an audience with the Korean emperor on the following day. Allen promptly complied and the Korean palace immediately set to work on preparing for the audience and a banquet for the esteemed American naval officers.

Aug 5, 2023By Robert Neff

Admiral Robley Evans' visit to Seoul in 1902: Part 1

Opinion

Bar fights and Russian spies: Just another day at Daibutsu Hotel

Daibutsu Hotel is the large multi-storied building in the center of the image.   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffThere is an old saying that in wine there is truth but often one man's truth is merely an opinion that would be better kept to himself. Unfortunately, alcohol also inspires people to want to share their truths with everyone around them ― often in a loud voice.In December 1886, a serious incident took place at Daibutsu Hotel in Chemulpo (modern Incheon). The hotel was one of the largest and most popular in the port. It was also fairly cosmopolitan. Although it was located in the Japanese settlement of the port, it was frequented by sailors from various nations' warships and merchant vessels, businessmen and residents of Chemulpo, and those just passing through the port seeking opportunities. One of the latter, Walter Laws, a Black American, was sitting at a table and drinking (probably Japanese beer) with a member of the Korean Customs Service. Laws, who seems to have been emboldened with his drink, made a derogatory comment about a Chinese man at the counter.

Jul 30, 2023By Robert Neff

Bar fights and Russian spies: Just another day at Daibutsu Hotel

Opinion

Beer arrives in 19th-century Joseon

For many people, crispy fried chicken and ice-cold beer are just as much a part of the Korean summer as are the heat and humidity. Beer is extremely popular here ― so popular that in 2022, the average Korean adult consumed 83 bottles of beer a year. Korea clearly has an affinity with beer, but it is a fairly recent one. In August 1875, a British warship played host to a Korean magistrate and his entourage. They were guided about the ship and then the British captain had a keg of pale ale brought out and served to his guests. Apparently, they were not overwhelmed by this strange new drink as they gave “no signs of pleasure or disgust” while drinking it. When Percival Lowell arrived in Chemulpo (modern Incheon) in late 1883, he and his companions were transported to Seoul in palanquins and a couple of jinrikishas which were very recent introductions to Korea. The Korean drivers were “perfectly innocent of the way to handle the vehicles” and dumped one of the riders into a ditch. The accident left the jinrikisha “smashed beyond the possibility of mending on the spot and [it] had to be a

Jul 29, 2023By Robert Neff

Opinion

Busan in 19th century: Sharks and mermaids

At the beach in Busan in the early 20th century    Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffFor many people, summer means frolicking on the beach with friends and family. It is a time to enjoy the sun, the water and the beautiful views ― but there are also discomforts associated with the beach: too much sun leads to sunburns, sand everywhere including in your swimsuit and the huge crowds and subsequent larger amount of litter. There is, of course, the unspoken danger of sharks. People normally do not think about sharks in Korea but lately they have been in the news ― their recent appearances are blamed upon global warming. But sharks aren't really newcomers to Korean waters ― especially in the southern parts of the country. According to various trade reports from the late 19th century, one of Korea's chief exports was shark fin. And, if we are to believe the Western accounts, shark flesh was once quite popular in local markets.In 1890, the customs commissioner at Fusan (modern Busan) surnamed Hunt even described the very lucrative shark fishery at that port being carried on by &

Jul 22, 2023By Robert Neff

Busan in 19th century: Sharks and mermaids

Opinion

The Korean wave to Hawaii part 2: From riches to rags to freedom

Chinnampo (modern Nampo), a gateway to a great escape, circa early 1900s     Courtesy of Diane Nars CollectionBy Robert NeffOften we think of the early Korean immigrants in Hawaii as Christians and people from the lower social classes who left Korea in hopes of enriching their lives (financially and spiritually), but many of them were from the upper class (yangban) and financially well-off ― they left Korea not so much for wealth, but for freedom from the social norms.In his book, “The Korean Frontier in America,” Wayne Patterson provides several family testimonies from yangban families who gave up everything and moved to Hawaii.According to one account, long before Joseon was established, there was a prime minister named Kim who “was the duplicate of the King in face and figure.” This likeness was the source of his fame and his death.“Once when the Korean King was at war with his rebellious lords, the prime minister, seeing the danger that the King was in, quickly changed his garb for the King's, had him taken to a safe refuge, then ridin

Jul 9, 2023By Robert Neff

The Korean wave to Hawaii part 2: From riches to rags to freedom

The Korean wave to Hawaii: part 1

Robert Neff

Read more

Gangmae Village: Bridging the past with the present

Korean criminals make Americans grow more vigilant despite Joseon curfew in 1885

Gyeonghuigung - a palace of water and prayers

Gyeonghuigung: a foreigner's account

Evans' visit to Seoul: part 2

Admiral Robley Evans' visit to Seoul in 1902: Part 1

Bar fights and Russian spies: Just another day at Daibutsu Hotel

Beer arrives in 19th-century Joseon

Busan in 19th century: Sharks and mermaids

The Korean wave to Hawaii part 2: From riches to rags to freedom

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