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Robert Neff

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Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.

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Opinion

Hunting 'crow thief' on Korea's east coast in 1930s

There has always been something magical about the East Sea. In the 19th century it was the hunting grounds for Western whalers. In Korean legend it was the domain of water ghosts and mermaids. And in modern history it was the final stage for the 1904-05 Russo-Japanese War. Many years ago, it was my favorite place to get away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. Of course, during the summers, finding a place of peaceful solitude was nearly impossible as the beaches were filled with frolicking families, mischievous schoolboys and the occasional military patrol.

Dec 10, 2023By Robert Neff
Hunting 'crow thief' on Korea's east coast in 1930s
Opinion

Kim Bu-gwi, the tallest monk at Hwaeom Temple

Hwaeom Temple, located in Gurye, South Jeolla Province, is arguably one of the most beautiful temples in Korea. The temple was first established in 544 and enjoys a long history filled with destruction, reconstruction and renovations. It is filled with officially designated Treasures and National Treasures and it is unsurprisingly one of Dale Quarrington’s favorite temples. According to him, “It’s not every day that you’re in awe of a building or even a stone structure, but it’s not every day that you visit Hwaeom Temple."

Dec 9, 2023By Robert Neff
Kim Bu-gwi, the tallest monk at Hwaeom Temple
Opinion

Go Dae-su: Queen Min's giant female bodyguard

Early Western accounts of Korea often portray women as meek, subservient and hidden away from view of all males except their husbands, fathers and brothers. A Korean woman was expected to obey, without deviation, every whim of the males in her life and in some cases to follow them into death. These characterizations of Korean women were made by both male and female foreign observers, and, although there was some truth to them, they were generalizations that did not distinguish between social status, class and location. Not all Korean women were docile; many – especially the royal family – wielded influential power and, according to some observers, manipulated politics.

Dec 4, 2023By Robert Neff
Go Dae-su: Queen Min's giant female bodyguard
Opinion

Son-dol: cold day for ferryman and merchant

Unless you have lived in Korea for a long time, you are probably unaware of Son-dol Day, which occurs every year on the 20th day of the 10th month of the lunar calendar. This year it falls on December 3.

Dec 3, 2023By Robert Neff
Son-dol: cold day for ferryman and merchant
Opinion

Silla, when giants ruled the peninsula

According to legends, long before tigers smoked pipes, Korea was ruled by giants.

Nov 18, 2023By Robert Neff
Silla, when giants ruled the peninsula
Opinion

Cornerstone of Korea's independence

On Nov. 21, 1896, a large crowd gathered to witness the laying of the cornerstone of the Independence Arch, a symbol of Korean independence. According to the English version of The Independent – a newspaper published in Seoul:

Nov 12, 2023By Robert Neff
Cornerstone of Korea's independence
Opinion

Joseon taffy's sweet history

For many Koreans, Nov. 11 is Pepero Day, a fairly recent unofficial celebration that Wikipedia claims is similar to Valentine’s Day. On this day, friends and family exchange Pepero (long, thin cookie sticks covered with chocolate) as a show of affection.

Nov 11, 2023By Robert Neff
Joseon taffy's sweet history
Opinion

Joseon butterflies and legends: the ghost of Arang

The legend of Arang is one of the most famous ghost stories in Korea. It is a tale of one-sided love, betrayal, greed. murder and, of course, a butterfly and a ghost.

Nov 5, 2023By Robert Neff
Joseon butterflies and legends: the ghost of Arang
Opinion

Joseon butterflies and legends

One of the most beautiful sights in summer are the swarms of butterflies gracing the fields of flowers found throughout Korea. Like a kaleidoscope of color, they flit about bringing joy and wonder to all who view them. To many they are symbols of transformation and the cycle of life. In Korea they symbolize prosperity and contentment. They are generally associated with light and beauty but they also have a dark side – one filled with ugliness and contradiction.

Nov 4, 2023By Robert Neff
Joseon butterflies and legends
Opinion

Korean inns in the 20th century part 3: a wonderful adventure

In the late 19th century, travelers to Korea were often faced with the daunting task of finding places to stay. Japanese hotels and inns could be found in the open ports but for many Westerners, these were not very comfortable due to the cultural and dietary differences. There were a handful of Western-style hotels – mainly in Jemulpo (modern Incheon) and later in Seoul – but these were fairly expensive, providing they had vacancies. At one point there was even a Korean hotel – but the reviews of it were far from encouraging. For most travelers, staying in a Korean inn was an adventure they wanted nothing to do with.

Oct 23, 2023By Robert Neff
Korean inns in the 20th century part 3: a wonderful adventure
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