I am covering trend, food and fashion. Previously, I covered diplomacy, city, environment and unification.
Guide to naengmyeon, Korea's summer noodles
People line up for a meal at a naengmyeon (cold noodles) restaurant in Mapo District, Seoul, May 13, as daytime temperatures reached 29 degrees Celsius. Yonhap
By Kim Se-jeong
On a sweltering summer day in Seoul, nothing cuts through the heat quite like a bowl of "naengmyeon" — slippery, chilled noodles served in icy broth, topped with slices of meat, pickled radish and pear. For many Koreans, braving the midday sun to queue up for this refreshing comfort food has become a summer ritual. But behind the chill lies a dish shaped by migration, memory and reinvention — a bowlful of Korea’s past and present.
History
Although Korean cold noodles are believed to have originated as early as the middle of the 918–1392 Goryeo Dynasty, written records from that era are scarce. Early references describe "putting noodles in cold grain water," a likely precursor to naengmyeon.
The earliest known mention of naengmyeon by name appears much later, in "Gyegokjip" (1643), a collection of essays and poems by scholar Jang Yu of the 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty. In a poem titled "Jajang Naengmyeon," he recounts eating cold noodles served in jajang, a purple broth made from omija (Schisandra berries).
A more vivid account appears in "Dasan Simunjip," a collection of writings by renowned Joseon scholar Dasan Jeong Yak-yong (1762–1836). He wrote, “When October comes and snow piles up a foot deep in the Seogwan region (now Hwanghae and Pyongan provinces) … hand-pulled naengmyeon, paired with crisp cabbage kimchi.”
"Making Noodles" (c.1882-85) by Kim Jun-geun / Courtesy of Ethnological Museum of Berlin
Though widely known today as a summer dish, naengmyeon originated as a winter delicacy in the cold northern regions of the Korean Peninsula, where freezing temperatures made it possible to enjoy icy broths naturally. The October mentioned in Jeong’s writing is in the lunar calendar, corresponding to modern-day November or December, highlighting its seasonal origins.
The dish began spreading southward following the 1910-45 Japanese occupation and the 1950-53 Korean War, as many northerners migrating to the South brought food traditions with them.
Despite its cold refreshment being associated with summer today, naengmyeon wasn’t commonly eaten in warmer months until advancements in ice-making made it possible in the early 20th century. Korea’s first ice plant opened in Busan in 1909, and by the 1910s, improved refrigeration allowed ice storage which made cold broth available year-round, according to Joo Young-ha, a professor at the Academy of Korean Studies.
Today, naengmyeon is typically served in a savory, meat-based broth. But originally, it was enjoyed in a water-based kimchi broth. As demand for summer naengmyeon grew, restaurants struggled to supply enough fermented kimchi-based soup. In the 1910s, many turned to artificial seasonings produced by Japanese companies to deliver an umami flavor more efficiently.
The two most dominant varieties of naengmyeon are Pyongyang naengmyeon and Hamhung naengmyeon. gettyimagesbank
Varieties
Today, the two most dominant varieties are Pyongyang naengmyeon and Hamhung naengmyeon, each offering a distinct texture and taste experience rooted in their northern origins.
Pyongyang naengmyeon features buckwheat noodles that are soft yet slightly chewy, served in a cold, mildly flavored beef broth. While its mild, almost bland taste may surprise first-timers, it has a devoted following that swears by the dish’s subtle flavors. Public interest in Pyongyang naengmyeon surged after it was featured during the inter-Korean summit in 2018, where it was served as part of the leaders' symbolic meal.
Hamhung naengmyeon, on the other hand, uses chewy, translucent noodles made from potato starch, offering a bolder and more elastic mouthfeel. This is the type most commonly served at South Korean barbecue restaurants, where diners often give it a tang by mixing in vinegar and mustard.
A popular variation is hoe-naengmyeon, a brothless version where the noodles are tossed in spicy gochujang (Korean pepper paste) sauce and topped with marinated raw fish. Originally paired with sole, a kind of flatfish, in the North, today’s South Korean versions often use stingray, which is more accessible here.
A simpler version without raw fish, known as bibim naengmyeon, is another staple at barbecue joints — spicy, cold and perfect for cleansing the palate after smoky meat.
Milmyeon, also known as Busan milnaengmyeon, is believed to have been created by migrants who fled Hamhung, North Korea, during the Korean War, and settled in Busan. The noodles are made from a mix of flour and potato starch and the dish is served in a pork-based broth with various garnishes.
Deulgireum makguksu features buckwheat noodles tossed with perilla oil. gettyimagesbank
Since naengmyeon literally means cold noodles in Korean, the term is often used more broadly to refer to a range of chilled noodle dishes — even those that don’t carry the name naengmyeon.
One such variation is makguksu, a specialty of Gangwon Province. It features buckwheat noodles in a light kimchi or meat broth, with minimal soup. This allows the noodles to be mixed easily with garnishes. A popular twist on this dish is deulgireum makguksu, in which the noodles are drained and tossed with nutty-flavored perilla oil — a quick, fragrant option for the summer.
Lastly, chogyeguksu, from the Hamgyong and Pyongan regions in the North, is a cold noodle dish served in chilled chicken broth and topped with chicken. Its tangy, vinegar-infused broth makes it especially refreshing in the summer.