Spanish wine weds hansik’ cuisine

By Kim Young-jin

With Spanish wines gaining popularity worldwide, the question here was inevitable: are they compatible with hansik, the local cuisine?

An event titled "Wines from Spain: Harmony in Your Glass 2010," held last Monday at the Lotte Hotel in Seoul, put any doubt to rest.

Hosted by the Spanish Embassy, the event placed an elegant six-course Korean meal alongside Spanish wines to harmonious effect.

"Most Korean foods, apart from very spicy foods or salty foods, are actually very compatible with wines," said Jinny Kang, the food and wine consultant who planned menu.

She highlighted the "fresh" quality of Spanish wines that make them the perfect accompaniment for the rich spices of hansik.

The wines match best with Korean "palace-style" dishes - foods enjoyed during the Joseon Dynasty, when royalty avoided overly spicy foods, the expert said.

The event's menu was reminiscent of such fare.

The appetizer, stuffed cucumber with a splash of vinaigrette dressing, was light and subtle, mirroring similar qualities in the Bodegas Pinord +Natura 2009 and making for a refreshing combination.

The pairing of assorted Korean pancakes, or "jeon," with Bodegas Laus Flor de Chardonnay 2009, was a highlight.

The pancakes, which included flavorful hints of kimchi and scallion, tingled the taste buds ahead of the ultra-smooth red with a waft of fruit aroma.

A sweet, spicy stir-fry with octopus and ginseng followed, which came milder than normal to calibrate with the wine.

The wine itself was a Bodegas Casar de Burbia Hombros 2007, made with Mencia grapes, which are indigenous to northern Spain and rising in popularity for their nuanced, earthy tones.

Other items included a steak fillet in Korean-style marinade with vegetables. A millet pancake stuffed with sweet red beans was the highlight of the dessert.

The event came as Spain, with its long history of wine production, is finding newfound acclaim for their diversity, increased quality and affordability.

Those from the Rioja and Ribera del Duero regions traditionally get the most attention, but areas such Priorat have garnered acclaim of late as well.

The rising popularity has found its way to the Korea as well, with the number of Spanish vintages in the market here increasing between 2009 and 2010.

Spanish Ambassador to Korea Juan Lena, noted that the timing couldn't be better, given Korea's push to make hansik a more global food.

"Korean food is now opening to the world," he said, "and Spanish wine is well suited to Korean food."

For those looking to pair hansik with wine, consultant Kang said there's no exact science.

"It doesn't have to be a perfect match," she said. "What you're looking for is a broad balance, and that's the most important factor."