Protest continues over possible closure of Euljiro's historic eateries
Tak Seung-ho, 68, stands outside his restaurant, Yangmiok, which specializes in cow intestines barbeque, at the Euljiro area's Sewoon District 3, Monday. Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul
By Lee Suh-yoon
“Former President Kim Dae-jung visited my restaurant 150 times,” Tak Seung-ho, 68, owner of Yangmiok, said proudly in an interview inside his bustling cow intestine barbeque joint next to Euljiro 3-ga Station in central Seoul, Monday. “In fact, most of the previous Korean presidents passed through this hall.”
Tak, a former manufacturer of industrial vacuum cleaners, opened Yangmiok in 1992. The restaurant, younger than most other eateries in this historic neighborhood, has gathered a loyal following over the years.
“The craftsmen and technicians working in this area are all gastronomes,” Tak said with a smile. “We had to prepare our dishes with the same professionalism these people put into their work to succeed here.”
Yangmiok is now famous in Seoul. Tak's son runs another branch near Namdaemun Market. Though many visitors and Japanese tourists now seek out the place, around 80 percent of its business relies on returning customers, Pak says.
“Just like how Eulji Myeonok has to be in Euljiro to be Eulji Myeonok, we need to stay here to be the Yangmiok our customers are familiar with,” Tak said, bowing his head briefly to greet a familiar patron at the entrance. “I can't believe they are trying to build apartments here, out of all the places in Seoul. It's not easy to build up a solid 60-year-old commercial district like this somewhere else you know, located at the junction of three subway lines.”
Real estate developers who have already
razed most of the decades-old supply stores and factories in Sewoon District 3
next to Euljiro 3-ga Station now face a slightly more formidable opponent ― the area's historic eateries.
For one thing, these restaurants have the public's backing. The recent media frenzy over the possible closure of Eulji Myeonok, a 33-year-old authentic Pyongyang naengmyeon (cold noodle) restaurant in District 3, proved the public ― largely uninterested or unaware of the area's industrial supply stores and metal craft workshops ― is very concerned about the wellbeing of its historic restaurants.
News that decades-old family-run eateries like Eulji Myeonok, Yangmiok, Anseong House and Chosunoak could disappear because of the demolition of the district induced a strong backlash from Seoul citizens, prompting Seoul Mayor Park Won-soon to announce a “thorough re-examination” of the redevelopment plan for the Euljiro area.
Lee Yoon-sang, 92, whose eldest son runs the Eulji Myeonok, enters the famed Pyongyang naengmyeon restaurant, Jan. 8. Lee owns the restaurant building, located near Euljiro 3-ga Station, Seoul. Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul
On Wednesday, the city government announced it would prevent “forced demolition” in other sections of the Euljiro area and the “forced eviction” of historic restaurants like Eulji Myeonok and Yangmiok, with Jung-gu Office playing the mediating role between the restaurants and Hanho Construction, the developer.
But few believe the city government will preserve the restaurants in their original setting, as it has already permitted developers to tear down most of the district. Restoration measures at this stage will likely mirror the fate of Pimatgol, the narrow alleyway of affordable grub and makgeolli that used to run through Jongno. Pimatgol lost most of its charm and vitality even though some of its original restaurants were “restored” along the ground floor of the new high-rise buildings after redevelopment.
“Park Won-soon said he would re-examine the redevelopment plan in this area but I'm not sure how he can meaningfully change things around this late,” Tak said. “The demolitions have not reached this part of District 3 yet but at this pace, my restaurant can probably stay here three more years at most.”
Unlike Tak, however, owners of many of these famed eateries ― such as Eulji Myeonok ― own their restaurant buildings, thanks to years of successful business. Though this gives them a stronger financial and legal position against Hanho Construction, they have faced public scrutiny due to their status as landowners who can be financially compensated by the redevelopment.
Some local media outlets reported last week that Eulji Myeonok was just aiming to win higher compensation from developers, citing the Hanho Construction head. But according to The Korea Times' interview with Eulji Myeonok earlier this month, the restaurant owner did not consent to the redevelopment plan in the initial vote of landlords, only agreeing to negotiate terms after the developer claimed 75 percent of landlords in the area had agreed to redevelopment ― the legal minimum they need to push through the plan without the consent of other landlords.
“We are not doing any more media interviews,” the owner of Chosunoak replied to an interview request Monday afternoon. “Not after seeing what happened to Eulji Myeonok.”