Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.
Walking in the footsteps of the Past: Foulk's 1884 trek around Nonsan
A small Korean village in the late 19th or early 20th century / Robert Neff Collection
By Robert Neff
In the fall of 1884, George C. Foulk, an American naval ensign assigned to the American legation in Seoul, undertook an extensive tour through the southern part of the Korean Peninsula. His observations ― carefully recorded in minute detail in his travel journals and letters home ― provide some of the best and earliest English descriptions of the regions outside of Seoul. Of course, some of his descriptions were more entertaining than others ― especially his dismay of always being on display, particularly while answering the call of nature near Nonsan.
“I went to the W.C. this a.m., a little ring of rushes in the yard, filthy and obscene beyond expression. Fully 150 people of all kinds stood by silently watching me with the most unconcerned manner in the world. My eventful life as a traveler has no doubt made me coarse in some ways, but indeed I suffered while undergoing this scrutiny. There seems to be not the faintest idea of modesty and of allowing privacy among the people.”
Foulk denounced it as “the worst experience I've ever had in the world” ― pretty strong sentiment for a naval officer who was accustomed to close quarters on small naval vessels ― and expressed a desire to leave “this horrible land.”
A watermill in the early 20th century / Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection
Peddlers carry pottery and ceramics in the early 20th century. / Robert Neff Collection
Fueling his negativity were the actions of some of the minor officials and servants of the local government. They were not above abusing the common people ― beating and kicking them ― seemingly to impress their American visitor. Some took the opportunity to enrich themselves.
While going through a small village, he noticed some of the messengers took advantage of their status and stole from the merchants:
“The red coated yamen runners are devils. They take persimmons from stands without paying for them and one began to pound a poor fellow.”
Much to his satisfaction, one of Foulk's own servants put a stop to this physical abuse. Foulk didn't elaborate how it was stopped but judging from some of his other anecdotes, his servant probably used his fists and feet to accomplish the task. I wonder if Foulk noted the irony of the situation.
There are, of course, other observations ― rather brief and benign ― of the lives of the Korean peasants he encountered. There were the “many pack men laden with glazed jars and bowls and pots of all sizes and shapes.” The small sailing junks and ferries along the river, the terraced-slopes of the treeless hills and the streams that meandered around them. These streams were teeming with small fish and numerous fish chutes were employed to catch them and add to the people's daily diet.
Sometimes, however, his descriptions were too brief ― perhaps he considered them not worthy of further investigation ― and leave us, the modern reader, filled with curiosity and the desire to learn more. One of these observations was about Chicken Dragon Mountain ― the subject of tomorrow's article.
For a great source of information on Foulk's trek through Korea in 1884 I highly recommend Sam Hawley's book “Inside the Hermit Kingdom.”
Gwanchok Temple in the early 20th century / Robert Neff Collection
Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books including, Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.