Often found at theaters and museums, Kwon Mee-yoo has covered a wide range of cultural fields from K-pop and dramas to theater and fine art for over a decade. Now as K-Culture Desk editor, she tries to connect Korean culture with global readers through fresh perspectives.
INTERVIEW Chef Chae Jung-eun preserves Korea's fermentation traditions in Australia
Chef Chae Jung-eun operates Korean restaurant CHAE in Cockatoo, near Melbourne, Australia. Courtesy of Chip Mooney
By Kwon Mee-yoo
Highly-coveted six-seat restaurant in Cockatoo offers authentic Korean cuisine
When traditional Korean fermentation techniques meet the lush landscapes of Australia, chef Chae Jung-eun crafts an authentic and personal culinary experience.
Perched in the hills of Cockatoo, 50 kilometers southeast of Melbourne, restaurant CHAE serves bold, fermented flavors inspired by the chef’s Jeolla Province roots, inviting guests to savor the soulful essence of Korean cuisine in a serene, intimate setting.
Snagging a reservation at the six-seat restaurant isn't just hard to come by — they’ve become a matter of luck. Once boasting a waiting list of over 8,000 hopeful diners, the restaurant now operates on a lottery system, receiving more than 3,000 ballots monthly despite opening only on weekends.
Chef Chae shared her passion for bridging Korea’s timeless culinary traditions with Australia’s native bounty, reflected in every jar of "jang" (Korea's fermented sauce) and every dish served at her restaurant, in an email interview with The Korea Times.
Below are excerpts from the interview. It has been edited for length and clarity.
Entrance to CHAE, a six-seat Korean restaurant in Cockatoo, Australia / Courtesy of Chip Mooney
Q. What inspired you to bring authentic Korean food to Australia in such an intimate, personalized way?
A. Looking back, it feels like a happy accident. I’ve been cooking since 2006, after moving to Australia to study cookery. Over the years, I worked hard to climb the career ladder in Melbourne’s fine dining scene. However, a minor car accident changed my path — I sustained an ankle injury that made it difficult to continue in the commercial kitchen environment, with its physically demanding labor and long hours of standing. At that point, I began to doubt whether I could keep going in the same way. Around the same time, the idea of one-table dining, which had always lingered in the back of my mind, resurfaced. During my recovery, while undergoing physiotherapy, I decided to give it a shot.
Growing up, I often watched my mom make large batches of kimchi to last the year and ferment condiments like doenjang (soybean paste) and gochujang (pepper paste). These practices were a natural part of our household and my palate became accustomed to the taste of homemade, fermented foods. Helping her with these chores gave me a basic but solid understanding of traditional Korean cooking techniques. This upbringing gave me a significant advantage when running a Korean restaurant, as I developed a deep appreciation for the subtleties and nuances that come from eating and preparing this kind of food.
Q. How has the Australian audience responded to CHAE?
A. Over the course of CHAE’s five years of operation, the Australian audience has shown a genuine interest in Korean culinary heritage. Having lived in Australia for nearly 20 years, I’ve observed how the Korean food scene has evolved. Many Korean restaurant owners and chefs have worked hard to adapt their dishes to suit the local palate.
At CHAE, however, the flavors remain true to their authentic roots. My cooking is largely inspired by my mom, who comes from Jeolla Province, a region in Korea known for its strong, robust flavors, often achieved through the use of fermented seafood. While this depth of flavor is deeply traditional, it can sometimes be overwhelming for those who are more accustomed to milder tastes. That said, diners who visit CHAE are often fascinated by these bold, unapologetic flavors and are eager to experience them as they are.
Maintaining this authenticity hasn’t always been easy, but the positive responses and curiosity from our guests have reinforced my commitment to preserving and sharing the true essence of Korean cuisine.
Chae Jung-eun strives to serve authentic Korean food at CHAE. Courtesy of Chip Mooney
Q. Could you share the principles that guide your approach to cooking and running CHAE?
A. During my recovery from injury, CHAE was born out of a simple yet profound desire: to eliminate the distractions often associated with running a food business and focus solely on cooking delicious food. This core value remains at the heart of everything I do. I’m often asked if I plan to expand the restaurant, especially given its success, but I have no such intention. Working in the food business, I’ve often seen businesses lose sight of their core values and identity as they prioritize profitability and scalability.
I deeply understand that it’s the intimate connection between the chef and diners, along with the exclusive, personal atmosphere, that makes the CHAE experience unique. Expanding would risk losing this essence — not just for our guests but also for the integrity of the business itself. Maintaining this connection is what makes CHAE so special and I’m committed to preserving that.
Q. Fermentation is central to your cooking. Why is this process so meaningful to you?
A. Fermentation has always been central to my cooking because I grew up eating my mom's homemade jangs. To me, this is what food should taste like and it’s a simple principle: I serve my diners the flavors I believe food should embody. There’s something profoundly rewarding about cultivating your own bacteria, carefully tending to your products and creating the perfect environment for good bacteria to thrive. Each step in the process is executed with care and the result is truly unique.
I understand why this time-honored technique of fermenting jang is commercially unviable for most businesses. It demands constant manpower, significant storage space, substantial investment, which doesn’t generate immediate revenue. However, my home-based restaurant setup makes this possible. By saving on traditional business overheads like rent and wages, I can instead invest in crafting my own fermented jangs, staying true to my culinary roots and offering diners an authentic and personal experience.
Chae Jung-eun makes all fermented Korean condiments such as ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang, gochujang, gamsikcho (persimmon vinegar), fermented fruit extract and jeotgal (salted seafood) for her restaurant CHAE. Courtesy of Chip Mooney
Q. How do you adapt traditional Korean fermentation techniques to the Australian climate?
A. I make all fundamental Korean jang such as ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang, gochujang, gamsikcho (persimmon vinegar), fermented fruit extract and jeotgal (salted seafood). These traditional Korean condiments are truly unique because they develop their own distinct and deeper flavors, unlike store-bought alternatives. Each batch I make is different, with its character influenced by the specific conditions of that year, making every jar a reflection of its own time and environment.
It took a significant learning curve, with plenty of trial and error, to adapt traditional Korean techniques to the Australian environment. For example, unlike the dry winters in Korea, winters here — especially in the mountains where I live — are very wet and humid. This high humidity caused issues like mold developing on the meju (fermented soybean brick) before the right bacteria could inoculate and cultivate properly.
To address this, we modified the process by making smaller meju blocks than those typically found in Korea, allowing them to dry faster and reduce the risk of unwanted mold. Additionally, most of the meju-making process is now done indoors, where temperature and humidity can be more easily controlled.
Chae Jung-eun believes that true foundation of Korean cuisine lies in its rich heritage of fermentation. Courtesy of Chip Mooney
Q. With Korean jang-making being inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list, what are your thoughts on this recognition? How do you see yourself preserving and sharing this tradition as a Korean chef in Australia?
A. The inclusion of Korean jang-making on the UNESCO list is an incredible milestone and I feel privileged to be in a position to help pave the way for authentic Korean condiments in Australia. It’s an honor to demonstrate that these time-honored practices not only have a place here but also hold great potential for shaping unique and successful food businesses.
That said, this is just the beginning. When it comes to Korean cuisine, the international understanding often only scratches the surface. As someone at the forefront of Korean jang-making, I feel a deep sense of responsibility to share this heritage more widely and to educate the international audience. By doing so, I hope to foster a deeper understanding and appreciation for these traditions, ensuring they continue to thrive in both their authenticity and relevance.
Q. Korean cuisine is gaining interest across the globe. How does this trend influence your work and what do you hope to bring to the understanding of Korean food through CHAE?
A. There’s no denying that Korean cuisine is gaining global interest, but through CHAE, I hope to broaden the understanding that Korean food goes far beyond popular dishes like bulgogi, bibimbap or the deep-fried creations often seen in viral TikTok challenges.
The true foundation of Korean cuisine lies in its rich heritage of fermentation, which serves as its heart and soul. This global interest inspires me to delve even deeper, building a comprehensive understanding of the history, techniques and applications of traditional Korean food. By doing so, I can confidently share this knowledge and introduce international audiences to the profound depth and nuance of Korean culinary traditions. Through CHAE, I aim to showcase the artistry and cultural significance of Korean food.