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Andrew Salmon

Andrew Salmon is a Seoul-based reporter and author.

Andrew Salmon

Treaties don't guarantee peace

By Andrew SalmonOne hundred years ago this Sunday ― at 11 o'clock, on Nov. 11, 1918 ― the guns fell silent across Europe. An armistice had been signed, ending World War I. In the title of Remarque's famous novel there was “All Quiet on the Western Front.”Much of Europe was devastated. Millions had died, both in combat and of starvation. Vast swathes of land were churned into mile upon mile of cratered, poisoned mud. These apocalyptic “deathscapes” have been captured in art, photography and poetry. Such had been the extent of the destruction and carnage that many believed World War I was “The war to end all wars.” Of course, it was not. Armistices in the east in 1917, and in the west in 1918, were followed by peace treaties: At Brest Litovsk, in 1918, and in Versailles in 1919. Despite these armistices and treaties, war would return to Europe in 1939. This was because the core issue ― notably the place and role of a powerful and ambitious Germany in Europe ― had not been adequately addressed by the treaties. Moreover, a hideous and lethal new elemen

Nov 14, 2018By Andrew Salmon
Treaties don't guarantee peace
Andrew Salmon

This blood-soaked land

By Andrew SalmonIt's a lovely spot ― even for dead men.In Paju County, north of Seoul, it is hidden behind a hedge on the road that runs parallel to the Imjin River, close to a gas station. Once through the hedge, the noise of traffic evaporates. A path winds down to gravestones set in green lawns. In the early evening sunlight, even these low stones cast shadows across the grass.War graves are emotive places. The beautifully maintained Arlington National Cemetery in Washington, D.C., is iconic worldwide. The British memorial at Kohima in India, where Japanese troops were fought to a standstill in their last great offensive of World War II, offers a searing but unforgettable inscription: “When you go home/Tell them of us and say/For your tomorrow/We gave our today.” It recalls perhaps the most famous war epithet of all time ― Simonides' lines to the 300 Spartans killed holding Thermopylae Pass: “Pray tell the Spartans/Oh, stranger passing by/That here, obedient to their laws/We lie.”But the Paju graveyard is, perhaps, more poignant than most. There is little s

Oct 10, 2018By Andrew Salmon
This blood-soaked land
Andrew Salmon

Persuasive charm of dictators

By Andrew SalmonFor those who prefer to see devils with horns, or who take a black-and-white view of humanity, it is problematic that the greatest mass murderer in modern times was, in many ways, a pleasant man. Despite relatively humble circumstances, he educated himself through reading widely. He was a fair artist and loved architecture. He was fond of small children and animals, and was both teetotal and a vegetarian. He understood poverty and failure, for he experienced both. But when his country called, he proved himself a patriot, and in combat, was decorated for bravery. A brilliant orator, he understood the power of spectacle and ignited seismic emotions among his audiences. Yet Adolf Hitler unleashed the deadliest war in human history; his regime implemented the industrialized slaughter of millions of men, women and children. It is troubling to know that, up close, many of those who met him were charmed. In the company of females, he was noted for his chivalrous manners. As fate turned against Germany, many persons ― even hardcore military professionals ― could hav

Sep 10, 2018By Andrew Salmon
Persuasive charm of dictators
Andrew Salmon

Crazy rich Koreans

By Andrew SalmonA filmic phenomenon is currently sweeping the American popular cultural space. Talk shows, newspaper columns and online chat are all a-buzz with hit rom-com, “Crazy Rich Asians.” It portrays Asian-Americans ― long considered a serious and successful, but not particularly cool or interesting ethnic group, given its propensity for elite education and professions like finance, law and medicine ― as fun and glamorous. Suddenly, it is cool to be Asian-American.However, the movie and the novel upon which it is based have generated some angst in Asia, most notably in Singapore, where it is largely set. Some Singaporeans complain that the “Asians” of the title are “East Asians.” While that ethnicity is economically and politically dominant in the island state, it is not the only one: Singapore also hosts minorities of South Asian and Malay descent. An Indian colleague has already expressed irritation at the movie's title.So while Americans of East Asian descent applaud the movie, Asians of different ethnicities are out of the pict

Aug 27, 2018By Andrew Salmon
Crazy rich Koreans
Andrew Salmon

Assault on 'Mr. Sunshine'

By Andrew SalmonSome locals, according to recent articles in this newspaper, are dissatisfied with the high-profile tvN drama “Mr. Sunshine.”The series, starring Lee Byung-hun, arguably Korea's most famous thespian, is fictitious. However, it is set in a real historical period: The twilight of the “Hermit Kingdom,” during which a reluctant Joseon was leveraged into the wider world and eventually devoured by Imperial Japan.The criticisms are multiple.Some are unhappy with the depiction of Joseon as a politically weak and technologically backward kingdom, reliant upon foreigners to introduce modern innovations (as, indeed, was the case). Others complain that a pro-Japanese character is given credible reason for his actions (as if all Koreans who eased Japan's takeover were simply evil and/or lacking rational motivations).Most remarkably, 20,000 people are petitioning the Blue House to introduce historical censorship.“Mr. Sunshine” does not claim to be historically accurate (if it were, the lead character could not exist). It is entertainment. And the

Jul 30, 2018By Andrew Salmon
Assault on 'Mr. Sunshine'
Andrew Salmon

Live the dream: wild swimming Korea

By Andrew SalmonSometimes, a book starts a movement. So it was with “Waterlog” (1999) by the late British environmentalist Roger Deakin. The book is an ode to the human relationship with water. Sprinkled with literary references, science and personal observation, it is beautiful and evocative, for swimming is the closest a human can come to flying. “Waterlog” captures this near-spiritual component perfectly. In his book, Deakin swims across and around the U.K., through ponds and lakes, streams and rivers, channels and beaches. He drifts over submerged villages off the southwest coast; over 500-foot deep, flooded quarries where the water is so crystalline he can see his shadow following him across the bottom; across fields of waving grass in flooded meadows; through underwater “Fairy Holes” on the Isle of Skye. And more.The book reads like a dream, perhaps because it whispers to something deep within our biological consciousness: the remembrance of total immersion in natural water. Today, most people in developed countries experience water in carefu

Jul 16, 2018By Andrew Salmon
Live the dream: wild swimming Korea
Andrew Salmon

Look kindly upon Yemeni refugees

By Andrew SalmonA brouhaha is brewing in Jeju. Some 550 Yemenis ― hardly a threat to a nation of 50 million ― fleeing their war-torn home seek refugee status on Jeju. Yet nationally, the mood is growing ugly. Politicians are discussing ways to prevent further refugees reaching these shores, and protesters are rallying under the banner “Our citizens first.” I wish the Yemenis good luck, because South Korea has a poor reputation of refugee assistance. According to a Korea Immigration Service report in 2017, among 15,947 refugees reviewed by the authorities between 1994 and April 2017, just 688 were granted refugee status. That represents 4.3 percent, compared to the median 37 percent acceptance rate worldwide in 2015 as calculated by the UN High Commissioner for Refugees. This is damning. Especially for a country that is the world's 11th largest economy.A hostile reception to outsiders goes beyond Yemeni refugees. Migrant workers ― who do the poorly paid, blue-collar jobs that South Korean youth disdains ― face abuse and visa difficulties. Even North Kor

Jul 3, 2018By Andrew Salmon
Look kindly upon Yemeni refugees
Andrew Salmon

Is South Korea's only ally heading home?

By Andrew SalmonOh, irony of ironies. United States Forces Korea ― USFK, which oversees 28,500 U.S. troops in South Korea ―  is not under threat from a leftist South Korea government, nor from North Korean action, anger or hostility. No. The man most likely to bring this formidable force home ―  or, at the very least, slash its capabilities, numbers and expenses ―  is the U.S. president himself.To widespread astonishment, U.S. President Donald Trump revealed in Singapore, after his summit with North Korean leader Kim Jong-un, that he had granted Pyongyang a long-standing demand: The end of joint South Korean-US military exercises. Notably, he did not simply cite the war games as “provocative” toward North Korea; they are “expensive” for the US taxpayer he said ―  an argument that Pyongyang has never used.This should astonish nobody. On the campaign trail Trump made clear that he favored allies paying more than they do. This is a president who views matters through an economic, rather than a strategic prism. Since 1953, U

Jun 18, 2018By Andrew Salmon
Is South Korea's only ally heading home?
Andrew Salmon

What is behind Kim's play?

By Andrew SalmonU.S. President Donald Trump has at last confirmed that the first-ever summit between North Korea and the United States is a go. His decision follows a diplomatic whirlwind. Given that both parties deployed maximum assets, all indications are that they wanted this to happen. At least four separate channels have been employed. In Singapore, working level officials examined venues, logistics and security. In the DMZ, mid-level officials thrashed out issues, seeking common ground. In Pyongyang and Washington, ministerial-level officials shuttled back and forth, forging relationships. At the apex, the leaders addressed each other ― formerly as “dotard” and “little rocket man,” latterly via elaborate letters. If the players want it to happen ― why so?Trump appears to be thinking legacy. He is probably also thinking electoral politics. A big, positive-optics foreign policy win (eg a Korean War peace treaty) suits both agendas. And he has been fascinated by North Korea since long before he started his presidential campaign. Kim is more opaque

Jun 4, 2018By Andrew Salmon
What is behind Kim's play?
Andrew Salmon

Could Korea restore royal family?

By Andrew SalmonAn estimated 2 billion TV viewers worldwide watched events in Windsor, the U.K., last Saturday as soldiers marched, carriages rolled, women wore ridiculous hats and the dashing Prince Harry of Wales wedded the attractive American thespian, Meghan Markle. Those are significant viewing figures, even by the standards of a Hollywood blockbuster or a global mega-sports event. I must confess I was not among them. Although I am British, I find weddings poor entertainment.That does not make me a republican, but many Brits are. They complain that the royals enjoy unfair privileges and waste taxpayers' money. The first point can be argued. The second point cannot; the royal family delivers immense value, both as an institution and monetarily. Royal patronage raises big money for charities, the arts and national institutions. Royal awards are prestigious, and are sought even by rock stars and sporting heroes. The royals make formidable diplomatic assets ― an audience at Buckingham Palace has cachet among global leaders as diverse as U.S. President Ronald Reagan and the late Ruma

May 21, 2018By Andrew Salmon
Could Korea restore royal family?
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