Contributor
Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.
“The great heat of summer will soon be upon you,” declared Chesney Duncan in late spring 1884, "and many [of the expat community in China] will be casting about for some place that will afford both change of climate and of scenery to spend the hot months in!”
In the winter of 1883, Percival Lowell, an American, paid a short visit to Fusan (modern Busan) while en route to Seoul via Jemulpo. According to him:
In the summer of 1884, an unidentified Western promoter — whom I believe was Chesney Duncan — declared that Fusan (modern Busan) was a wonderful health resort — not just for single adventurous men, but entire families. Duncan, an employee of the Korean Imperial Customs Service who had recently transferred to Fusan, seemed to enjoy taunting his friends in China with tales of this relatively unknown location. From his upper room in a Japanese house overlooking the port’s beautiful harbor, he basked in the delicious sea breeze as he poetically described the port in a letter to a Chinese newspaper:
While Jemulpo (modern Incheon) was often described in the late 19th century as the gateway to Korea, I would argue it was Fusan (modern Busan) that deserved this title, especially in the 1880s, when it appears more non-military Westerners visited it than Jemulpo. Over the next couple of articles we will examine Fusan in the 1880s.
One of the least appreciated but arguably the most beautiful thing to see in Seoul is the evening sky – especially along the Han River. It is not uncommon to see crowds of people gathered along the river banks sipping coffee – and perhaps stronger drinks – while staring at the majestic sunset. For the young lovers, it is romantic; for the weary office worker, it is rejuvenating; and for the elderly, it is a reminder of just how insignificant we humans are when compared to the colossal might of the universe. But in the late fall of 1883, the red sky was an omen of change and a reminder of the Mother Nature’s devastating strength.
In late 19th century, weather was often a catalyst for political unrest in Korea. Perhaps one of the most infamous examples was in the summer of 1882 when the Korean peninsula was on the precipice of change. The country was suffering from severe drought, the wells were dry and the crops were failing. Since early spring, sacrifices were made at the main city shrines and along the Han River beseeching gods for rain. Food became scarce and prices rose and thefts and robberies became widespread. Whispers amongst the superstitious claimed the kingdom’s woes were signs of the gods’ displeasure that foreigners were being allowed to enter the country.
In 1694, Huibin Jang was removed from power and relegated to an isolated part of the palace, but she was unwilling to quietly accept her plight; she was a master of Joseon’s Machiavellian politics and allegedly even willing to use her dead father as a tool.
In the annals of Joseon history, arguably the most interesting and hated women was Jang Ok-jeong (1659-1701), better known as Huibin Jang, King Sukjong’s royal consort. Her tale is like an episode from the popular drama “Game of Thrones” — complete with Machiavellian intrigue, seduction, witch trials, executions and, finally, ghostly hauntings.
According to a recent poll, Korean residents of Seoul view the Han River as a symbolic place representing the city. In the city's survey, about two-thirds of respondents said they like to spend their leisure hours by the riverside with their friends socializing. While the number of bicyclists and tents has increased over the past couple of decades, the number of fishers seems to have greatly decreased.
Korean is said to be one of the fastest-growing languages in the world. Undoubtedly, Korean movies, dramas and K-pop have influenced the popularity of the language. Not many years ago, speaking a few words of Korean garnished undeserved praise from elderly Korean shop keepers, but those days are gone. Korean-speaking foreigners are often encountered in the streets, seen on TV or on YouTube. The number of Korean language schools are constantly increasing, and for those who cannot physically attend a language school, there are many programs online.