Fishing along the Han River

Mr. Oh poses with one of his many fishing poles near Anyang Stream in southwestern Seoul, Sept. 6, 2023. Robert Neff Collection

According to a recent poll, Korean residents of Seoul view the Han River as a symbolic place representing the city. In the city's survey, about two-thirds of respondents said they like to spend their leisure hours by the riverside with their friends socializing. While the number of bicyclists and tents has increased over the past couple of decades, the number of fishers seems to have greatly decreased.

In 2004, the fishers were a ubiquitous sight along the river. They were generally older men — mostly in their 60s and 70s — retired and with a lot of time on their hands. Most of them arrived at the river at about 7 a.m. and stayed until late afternoon. They came to the river with the creature comforts needed for a long day in the sun — parasols, mats, tents, several bottles of soju and several fishing poles.

An angling area along the Han River, published in The Korea Times Sept. 10, 1986. Korea Times Archive

While the parasols, tents, large number of fishing poles and, of course, soju are still part of the fishing scene, there have been a lot of changes. The no-fishing zones along the river have greatly increased, so it is more difficult for fishers to find a place to set up. In fact, the fishers have taken to fishing in shifts — the first group arrives at dawn and fishes until the early afternoon, while the second group arrives in the late afternoon and fishes until 9 p.m. or 10 p.m.

The fishing poles now are basically the same as they were in 2004, except for the price. Two decades ago, the poles ranged in price from 10,000 to 100,000 won, but now they are between 50,000 and 220,000 won.

In 2004, the primary baits were worms, minnows and chicken feed. Some fishers, however, used paste bait as a bait. This was and still is illegal. The government claimed paste bait, or tteokbap in Korean, contributed to water pollution, but the fishers in 2004 disagreed. They argued there were so many fish that there was very little chance of it polluting the water. Even now, the fishers argue that construction and industry along the river are to blame for water pollution — not paste bait. While some of the 2004 fishers may have secretly used the forbidden bait, the present-day fishermen are too scared of the fine. According to a 70-year-old man who originally hailed from Wan Island, South Jeolla Province, anyone caught using tteokbap is fined 5 million won.

In 2004, the fishermen complained that the number of fish had greatly decreased. According to one man, he used to catch 10-20 fish a day in the late 1990s, but that number has since dropped to only two or three. Today’s fishers have similar complaints. They blame the Ara Canal for allowing seawater to flow more readily into the Han River. They insist that it is a lucky day if you catch one fish.

The fish have also changed. There are still large carp and eels, but the number of mullets has increased dramatically. Near Anyang Stream in southwestern Seoul, the mullets almost taunt the fishers as they leap out of the water to snatch flying insects. Mr. Oh, an 80-year-old man who has been fishing the river for the past couple of decades, pointed out that the younger fishermen fish for mullets.

Terraced embankments on the Han River, published in The Korea Times Jan 1, 1986. Korea Times Archive

In 2004, most fishers released their catch unless they were “bungeo,” “ingeo” (two species of carp) or “jangeo” (eel). These were taken home and made into medicine — the bungeo were reputed to be good for one’s general health, ingo were good for women and, according to several “wise” old gentlemen, eel was good for a man’s stamina.

Last fall, however, most of the fishers stated they released all of the fish they caught — only one gentleman admitted to occasionally taking catfish home to make into soup. Many claimed the only fishers to eat fish from the river were the Chinese, but the handful of Chinese fishers I asked all stated they released what they caught.

People catch fish in the Han River while the 63 Building under construction, published in The Korea Times Nov. 1, 1983. Korea Times Archive

The anglers have also changed over the past two decades. In 2004, most people fishing were men. They unabashedly admitted they enjoyed the opportunity to get away from their wives. There was one older couple who sat holding hands while fishing. They spent the time talking about their children and their own youth in the cool river breeze. Now, it is not that uncommon to see women fishing along the river. And not just older women. On the north side of the river near Mangwon's Battleship Park, several young couples could be seen fishing. One young woman claimed to have caught several fish that evening, but when asked to see them, she simply stated she released them. Fishers, regardless of age or gender, all have a fish tale to tell.

Fishers tend to be superstitious, and when asked about the strangest thing they encountered while fishing at night, all denied seeing ghosts or monster fish (or even dolphins). Many, however, have seen corpses floating in the river. Mr. Oh claims he discovers two or three every year. Every time he finds one, he reports it to the river police and they come to collect the body.

According to Seoul Mayor Oh Se-hoon, by 2030, the Han River will transform into a “rivercity” with floating hotels, offices, convention centers, international eateries and live performance venues. “This project will transform the Han River into a space where citizens can enjoy their everyday lives,” he said. It will become “the center of leisure and the hub of development,” but will it have enough space for fishing?

While fishing may not appeal to everyone, for those who appreciate the thrill of reeling in a giant fish (everyone seems to claim the fish they catch is a whopper), then the Han River is the place for you. And, judging from the amount of soju shared while lying to each other about the one that got away, foreign fishermen will probably find easy companionship along the river. Avoid the no-fishing zones and have fun.

A sign indicates a no-fishing zone along the Han River, May 10. Robert Neff Collection

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including "Letters from Joseon," "Korea Through Western Eyes" and "Brief Encounters."