The Korea Times

Born on the fifth day of the fifth moon

By Robert NeffA visage of the past ― Gyeongju, the ancient capital of Silla. Postcard, circa 1920s.  Courtesy of Diane Nars CollectionIn the late 19th century, books written in English about Korean history were often more amusing than informative because they were filled with inaccuracies, folktales, myths and deliberate deceptions. Horace N. Allen, an early American missionary doctor and later the American representative to Korea, was fond of amusing foreign readers on the peninsula ― as well as those abroad ― with his tales of Korea's past.One of his more interesting tales was published in 1896 and immediately grabs the reader's attention: “In former times it was believed that a son born of the 5th [day] of the 5th moon must be killed, otherwise he would overthrow the dynasty, if of royal birth, or ruin his father, if of ordinary parentage.” Allen claimed that the last king of Silla had “a son born on that unfortunate date and fearing lest his dynasty might be overthrown by him, he tossed the new-born babe out” into an adjoining courtyard to be devoured

Jun 5, 2022By Robert Neff

Opinion

Celebrating Dano in 1900

A group of men gathered in the mountains circa 1903. Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffTo the foreign visitor (and many younger Koreans), Dano is possibly one of the least-known Korean holidays. Even in the late 19th century, when it was well celebrated in Korea, it was rarely mentioned by Westerners in their letters home.One of the few exceptions was a young American gold miner at Unsan named Rush McCargar. In 1900, accompanied by an interpreter, he made his way to the mining camp's nearest Korean village so that he could describe “one of the biggest holidays of the East” to his family. Of course, he also had his camera and took a number of pictures ― not so much because he wanted to send them home, but rather because he wanted to sell them to his fellow miners so that they could send them to their families. Rush made a tidy little sum of money from this secondary occupation. (I won't be including any of his photographs in this article as they will appear in my book about McCargar which will hopefully be published by the end of the year)There were crowds of people gath

Jun 4, 2022By Robert Neff

Opinion

'Let there be light' for Joseon Court

The palace in the winter of 1883/84   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffIn late November 1886, William McKay, a 23-year-old Scottish-American, his wife Anna and their infant son Willie arrived in Jemulpo to help “enlighten” Joseon ― at least the palace ― with electricity. McKay was brought to the peninsula as an “electric light teacher” and his primary responsibility was to set up the power plant purchased by the Korean government from the Edison Company.McKay and his family made their way to Seoul and stayed with Horace N. Allen, an American missionary and physician, and his family until the Korean government could provide them with their own home. While waiting for the power plant and a second (unnamed) engineer to arrive, McKay examined the palace grounds and decided the best spot for the plant would be next to a lotus pond so that it could provide water for the boiler. On Jan. 3, 1887, a resident in Jemulpo wrote:“The Higo Maru brought an Electric Light plant here for the King's palace, in Seoul. It is said to be the best plant that has e

May 29, 2022By Robert Neff

Opinion

Dragons in the Palace

For many young foreign diplomats, Seoul in the late 1880s was a wild and exciting adventure. It was, of course, filled with political intrigue and assassinations; the main players were disgruntled court officials, members of the royal family and, reportedly, even the supernatural. According to Charles Chaille-Long, the secretary of the American legation in Seoul: "The King's Palace in 1888 was a collection of yamen, temple-like constructions, gloomy enough in the day, very dark and difficult to illuminate at night ― the very place for the pranks of the Evil Dragon." One morning ― presumably in the spring ― a great cry arose in the palace. In the middle of the night, while they were sleeping, several of the Korean soldiers at the palace were deprived of their topknots ("sangtu"). This act was a serious blow to their masculinity as topknots were a symbol of manhood ― gained only after marriage.

May 22, 2022By Robert Neff

Opinion

Shocking treatment: Electricity in 19th-century medical treatment

In the summer of 1877, a new type of medicine was introduced into Korea. Dr. Yano, a Japanese naval surgeon, established a hospital in Fusan (now part of modern Busan) where he treated not only the Japanese residents of the enclave but also Koreans from the surrounding regions. At first, many Koreans distrusted this foreign doctor and his new medicines, but, upon hearing glowing testimonies from their peers who had received treatment, their reluctance faded away and the hospital was soon frequented by those in desperate situations. According to one observer: “The Coreans are most astonished, and think that there must be something supernatural in the treatment.” Sometimes these treatments came in the form of potions and ointments. A Korean official who complained of having “rather weak eyes,” was given “a bottle of the Seikisui eye-medicine” and was very impressed with its results and made his satisfaction well-known to those around him. Subsequently, the medicine acquired a great reputation and a large quantity of this wonder drug was requested ― some orders were even received from S

May 21, 2022By Robert Neff

Shocking treatment: Electricity in 19th-century medical treatment

Opinion

The open secrets of Korea's 'namsadang' art troupes

A troupe of entertainers dance in the early 20th century.   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffIn the late 19th century, large itinerant troupes of male entertainers ― known as “namsadang” ― roamed the Korean countryside providing the common people with a brief respite from their everyday lives through acrobatics, music, dance and puppet plays. They have been described as the “voice of the common people,” as the performers were commoners themselves.Often, their songs, plays and puppet shows mocked and ridiculed the upper classes who equally held the namsadang as “an object of extreme disdain,” yet, seemingly tolerated them. As researcher Sim Usong noted, “Though it cost [the landowners and gentry] some money, they were able to work the farmers more efficiently. They were also able to subdue any ill feelings the populace might have felt toward them.” It might be interesting to add that it wasn't overly uncommon for magistrates and officials to be violently removed (killed) when their enraged subjects reached their breaking poi

May 15, 2022By Robert Neff

The open secrets of Korea's 'namsadang' art troupes

Opinion

Folk entertainment at village festival in 1957

In 1957, Richard Rutt ― an Anglican missionary ― wrote a series of anonymous articles for The Korea Times in which he described his life in a small village near Pyeongtaek. He was a master storyteller and his narratives were vivid, humorous and filled with detail which granted his readers the opportunity to escape the hustle and bustle of Seoul and relax in the simplicity of the countryside as it transitioned from the past to the present. Thus, it is not surprising, his articles were compiled and later published as "Korean Works and Days: Notes from the diary of a country priest."

May 14, 2022By Robert Neff

Folk entertainment at village festival in 1957

Opinion

The 1893 wreck of Russian warship, the Vitiaz

In early April 1893, the Russian warship, the Vitiaz (Valiant Warrior), departed Japan for Korea ― its mission was to survey the coast along the eastern side of the peninsula so that the Russian government could update its charts. The previous charts were about forty years old and were filled with inaccuracies.

May 8, 2022By Robert Neff

The 1893 wreck of Russian warship, the Vitiaz

Opinion

Jemulpo tennis tournament in 1902

Foreign Public Park (now known as Jayu Park) in Jemulpo circa 1905-20. Johnston's villa can be seen in the background.   Courtesy of Diane Nars CollectionBy Robert NeffOne of the first foreign sports to be introduced into Korea was tennis. In the spring of 1884, the American minister, Lucius Foote, and his wife Rose had a tennis court constructed at the American Legation in Seoul. About a month later, a tennis court was set up in Fusan (modern Busan) by the Western employees of the Korean Customs Service.Within a couple of years, tennis was very popular among the Western community. In Seoul, afternoons were whiled away on the tennis courts at the various legations and missionaries' residences. These matches appear to have been quite competitive. In September 1885, Mrs. Harriet Heron, the wife of an American missionary in Seoul, had to seek medical treatment in Shanghai after being struck in the eye with a tennis ball. It isn't clear when tennis began in Jemulpo but it doesn't challenge the imagination to assume it began in the mid-1880s on crude courts and later on the perm

May 7, 2022By Robert Neff

Opinion

Children during the Korean War

Children play in the street in Gapyeong or Chuncheon City in 1952.   Robert Neff CollectionBy Robert NeffIn the spring of 1952, Frederic H. Dustin, a 22-year-old American soldier, arrived at Incheon and was quickly transported to his unit in the Gapyeong area. One of his first impressions of Korea was of the children gathered along the railroad tracks asking the soldiers aboard the train for chocolates and change. For the next couple of months, he saw nothing of the country save the countryside surrounding his camp.In July 1952, Dustin received R&R (rest & relaxation) leave and traveled south to Seoul. In a letter to his parents, he described the abject poverty and dismal conditions that greeted him: “One has no idea I'm sure of the horrible plight many of these people are in. Really awful.” He went on to describe the great number of “old, broken down, dirty, filthy, foul-smelling” women who approached him on the street begging for food. “In any alleyway or the street, for that matter, are women sitting, naked babies in their arms or la

May 5, 2022By Robert Neff

Robert Neff

Read more

Born on the fifth day of the fifth moon

Celebrating Dano in 1900

'Let there be light' for Joseon Court

Dragons in the Palace

Shocking treatment: Electricity in 19th-century medical treatment

The open secrets of Korea's 'namsadang' art troupes

Folk entertainment at village festival in 1957

The 1893 wreck of Russian warship, the Vitiaz

Jemulpo tennis tournament in 1902

Children during the Korean War

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