VIDEO Inside the lab behind a K-beauty best-seller
Every two seconds, someone somewhere in the world buys a Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask. The small pink jar has become one of the best-known products of the K-beauty boom. How did a country that only a few generations ago had a handful of basic beauty creams become one of the world's top cosmetics exporters? Looking at Amorepacific R&I center's researcher, we explored story behind the lip mask, and the industry around it.
Picky customers at home
The Lip Sleeping Mask is a favorite not only in Korea but also across North America and Europe. It has become a fixture at Sephora, where it ranks among the best-reviewed lip treatments. Shoppers in the U.S. and Canada have turned it into a cult favorite. One reason for that rise starts in Korea itself: Korean shoppers are known for reading ingredient lists, comparing reviews and switching brands quickly when something better comes along. Industry analysts point to these demanding consumers as a major driver of K-beauty's success. A product that wins them over has already passed a tough test before it goes abroad.
That pressure also keeps companies moving quickly. New K-beauty products have typically gone from idea to shelf in six to eight months, compared with the 18- to 24-month cycles long common at Western beauty houses.
New products never stop
Cosmetics are not a one-time purchase. When a jar runs out, a satisfied customer buys another one — or drifts to a different brand. To keep customers from wandering, brands keep their lineups fresh.
The Lip Sleeping Mask comes in about 10 regular versions, and the count climbs past 30 when limited and seasonal editions are included. Many borrow from food and desserts, from Mint Choco and Apple Lime to a Rainbow Sherbet edition, the result of a collaboration with Baskin-Robbins. A Strawberry Banana shade is set to join the lineup next year.
What a cosmetic chemist does
Researchers first turn a concept into technical terms: how strong the scent should be, how firm the balm should feel and what color will look appetizing.
Then the work moves to the bench. A chemist melts a base, weighs pigments out to the gram and swatches the mixture on the back of their hand until the color is right. Because a hand can only say so much about texture, chemists often test early samples on their own lips and ask teammates for feedback. Samples go to a clinical lab, where hydration is measured. A pilot product is later tested on recruited participants. Between lab work, chemists also coordinate with factories and read customer reviews for ideas for the next product. From the first idea to launching the product, the process can take as long as two years.
Inside a lab few outsiders see
We went inside Amorepacific's research center in Yongin, Gyeonggi Province, a space rarely opened to outsiders, to see how a best-selling Korean beauty product is engineered and tested.