Empty streets and restaurants at Moran Market signal end of dog meat era
A street specializing in black goat dishes at Moran Market in Seongnam, Gyeonggi Province, sits nearly empty Monday, two days before Chobok. Korea Times photo by Lee Jung-hyeok
A heat wave gripped Korea on Monday, two days before "chobok," traditionally believed to be the beginning of the hottest days of summer, but Moran Market in Seongnam, Gyeonggi Province, was nearly empty. The market, once a hub for traditional summer dishes, is seeing a quiet final season before the landmark dog meat ban takes full effect on Feb. 7, 2027. Dog meat was once considered one of the most restorative foods for combating summer lethargy.
About 10 specialty restaurants sat mostly empty, with few customers and almost no foot traffic.
"There are no customers looking for dog meat and only a few places still sell it," said a 58-year-old merchant surnamed Ju, who runs a butcher shop and restaurant at the market. The shop owner attributed the drop to growing pet ownership and changing public attitudes toward dog meat.
"Even occasional customers cut back as prices rose," Ju said.
Prices surged from about 10,000 won ($6.71) per 600 grams to the mid-20,000-won range after 80 percent of farms raising dogs for meat closed last year, severely reducing supply. Dog meat stew, known as "boshintang," once accounted for 90 percent of Ju's income but now makes up less than 5 percent. The butcher is considering switching to a beef-based soup next year due to fierce competition from established restaurants selling black goat soup.
Under the landmark legislation outlawing dog meat consumption, enacted in February 2024, the dog meat trade will be fully prohibited from next year. Many restaurants have already changed their signs to announce new specialization in black goat soup, keeping the word "boshintang" hidden deep on the back of their menus. The market's past reputation of trading up to 80,000 dogs annually has long vanished. Ju added that many customers wonder if the sale of dog meat stew is already illegal.
A 58-year-old visitor surnamed Eun said he stopped eating boshintang after 30 years due to the new law.
"I am eating goat soup now to get used to the change," Eun said.
Merchants face deep concerns about their livelihoods. According to the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, as of the end of May, 563 restaurants had switched businesses and 336 had closed, representing a 21.6 percent rate of closures and transitions among the 4,154 affected businesses.
A spokesperson for the National Dog Meat Association said the 2.5 million won government subsidy is not enough to cover the cost of replacing signs and menus. The spokesperson explained that owners hesitate to switch businesses out of concern over competition from established restaurants.
A sign advertises dog meat stew at a restaurant in Moran Market in Seongnam, Gyeonggi Province, Monday. Korea Times photo by Lee Jung-hyeok
A 72-year-old customer expressed regret after finishing a meal with friends at the market.
"I understand it gradually disappearing due to changes in perception, but isn't banning it by law too much?" he said. "I used to eat boshintang once a month without fail, so I feel very sad."
This article from the Hankook Ilbo, the sister publication of The Korea Times, is translated by a generative AI system and edited by The Korea Times.