K-beauty boom raises safety concerns about human testing
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The rapid growth of Korea’s cosmetics industry is being powered by a surge in human application trials, but the number of reported cases of harm to participants is also increasing.
Critics say the government has failed to put in place adequate protections, even as President Lee Jae Myung promotes K-beauty as a leading cultural brand.
According to data released Sept. 18 by Rep. Ahn Sang-hoon of the opposition People Power Party, 21 testing institutions conducted 9,984 human application trials last year.
The figure is the highest since recordkeeping began in 2020 and represents more than a twofold increase in four years, from 4,375 cases in 2020. An estimated 200,000 people participated in tests last year.
Human application tests are conducted when cosmetics manufacturers commission specialized institutions to verify the safety and efficacy of specific products. These institutions operate as members of the Korean Association of Human Research Centers, a private group of 30 member companies.
The top human testing institutions last year were the Korea Dermatology Research Institute with 2,200 trials and P&K Skin Research Center with 1,717. Over the past five years, they conducted 5,900 and 6,446 tests, respectively, accounting for 18.9 percent and 17.3 percent of the total 34,060 cases at 21 institutions.
Food and Drug Safety Minister Oh Yu-kyoung delivers President Lee Jae Myung’s congratulatory speech during the 2025 Cosmetics Day ceremony in Seoul, Sept. 5. Newsis
Surge in side effects
The growth of testing reflects the sharp rise in cosmetics production. The number of registered cosmetic products increased from 1.2 million in 2020 to nearly 1.38 million in 2024, with the biggest jump occurring last year.
But the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS), which oversees cosmetics policy, acknowledged that it does not have complete oversight of the sector.
The ministry receives data through the industry’s cooperative body, but not all of its 30 member institutions submit records, and several institutions operate outside the cooperative altogether.
As testing numbers rise, so do reports of harm. MFDS recorded 39 cases of side effects and compensation last year, the highest in five years and more than double the 16 cases in 2020. Reported injuries included conjunctivitis, rashes and severe skin irritation.
One woman who took part in a cosmetics trial earlier this month said she was not properly informed about possible side effects or compensation.
“They explained almost nothing about risks or what support would be given if something went wrong,” she told the Hankook Ilbo.
Visitors look around exhibition booths at the 2025 K-Beauty Expo Korea at KINTEX in Goyang, Gyeonggi Province, Sept. 11. Yonhap
Focus on industry growth over safety
Compensation is left to the discretion of the institutions that run the trials. While participants are sometimes referred to partner clinics for treatment, there are no clear standards on the scope of care or compensation.
MFDS said it cannot track individual cases and only categorizes harms in broad terms such as “skin irritation” or “systemic reaction.”
Despite the concerns, the government has prioritized industry growth. At the Cosmetics Day ceremony earlier this month, MFDS Minister Oh Yu-kyoung read a message from President Lee, who called K-beauty “a proud Korean brand sought after worldwide” and pledged full government support for its future development.
Rep. Ahn criticized the lack of oversight. “MFDS has neglected the safety of participants, who are the foundation of K-beauty’s growth,” he said. “Institutions should be required to report adverse cases to the government. Only by protecting consumers and respecting participants’ rights can K-beauty grow without leaving scars.”
This article from the Hankook Ilbo, a sister publication of The Korea Times, is translated by generative AI and edited by The Korea Times.