RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK 8Mile offers a little Detroit in Daejeon
A mural of Eminem decorates the interior of 8Mile in Daejeon. Courtesy of John A. Riley
Depending on your age, Detroit may have different pop cultural associations: Tamla Motown, Robocop or Emimem. But in the past decade or so, it’s Detroit-style pizza that has been flying the flag for the city, gradually catching up with its New York and Chicago rivals, and even making its way as far afield as South Korea. It’s a rectangular, pan-baked pie with a thick crust and loaded with toppings, and was created in 1946 by Gus Guerra. It was — true to Detroit’s roots in the automotive industry — originally baked in a tray used for auto parts.
Four years ago restaurateur Kim Joong-ho grew tired of his company job and thought of starting a restaurant. Realizing that his favorite pizza and favorite rapper were from the same city, he created 8Mile, named after the neighborhood where Eminem grew up and the subsequent movie about his life. The restaurant’s interior aims to evoke something of the atmosphere of the underground rap clubs seen in the movie, but is smaller and cozier, with exposed bricks and mortar on one wall, while on the other is a graffiti mural of Eminem with his hoodie pulled up, in a light blue that gives him an almost religious aura. There’s also bar seating, and space to sit outside for when the weather is good. The playlist of contemporary American and Korean hip-hop is well-chosen and never too distracting.
For me, the cheese pizza is the most delicious item on the menu: made with five types of cheese, the cheese is thick and gooey on top and is spread right to the edge of the pan, where it runs down the side of the thick crust and caramelizes, creating what Guerra called "frico." With its chewy base and well-chosen blend of cheeses, it’s the kind of pizza that you can’t stop eating once you’ve started, even when you know you’ve had enough.
The signature dish, known as the 8Mile pizza, has mushrooms, jalapenos, pepperoni (placed onto the pizza first in accordance with Detroit style) and fat, juicy shrimp. It’s a “red top” style pizza, finished off with a generous helping of Kim’s own 8mile sauce. This is made with his own recipe of red pepper, onion, garlic and tomato. It is a flavorful and moreish pizza, and the shrimp really adds unexpected flavor and texture, though the sauce does have a powerful kick.
Detroit-style pizzas at 8Mile in Daejeon / Courtesy of 8Mile
Visitors from Michigan on business trips to Daejeon have complimented Kim on the authenticity of his pizza, an impressive feat since he hasn’t managed to make the trip to Deroit yet. Purists, though, will note that two other pizzas on the menu, potato and sweet potato, are not exactly traditional in the U.S. But that’s what makes 8Mile such a fun place: Korean and American cultures collide in the decor, music and food. Half-and-half pizzas are available so you can mix and match, with pepperoni, Hawaiian, and supreme styles also available.
8Mile also has an impressive selection of beers. Red Rock is the house beer, which is welcome as it’s sometimes hard to come by in Daejeon. I paired my half cheese and half 8Mile pizza with a can of MooSimCoe, a pale ale from Seoul’s Craft Bros. The piney, almost tropical taste is the perfect refresher after a mouthful of the spicy 8Mile pizza. As an Englishman, I was delighted to learn that 8Mile serves London Pride ale, subject to availability from distributors. Though the selection of beers may vary, a high-quality variety is always available.
8Mile is closed on Sundays, and open from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday to Saturday. It is one of a growing number of craft beer and international food places rapidly erasing Daejeon’s reputation as a "no jaem" city and instead putting it on the culinary map. Visit @8mile_pizza on Instagram for more information.
John A. Riley is a writer and educator based in Daejeon. He has written for The Asian Review of Books, Popmatters, Screen and numerous other publications.