Seoul underground: Exploring alternative dance music in Korea
Cakeshop in Itaewon / Photo by Husumu
By Jon Stein
When most people think of Seoul nightlife, a certain image comes to mind: huge, ritzy superclubs in Gangnam or Hongdae, the kind of places that boast elaborate light shows, strict dress codes and expensive bottle service, all to the sound of K-pop remixes and commercial EDM. But there's another side to the city's party scene. Over the last few years a thriving dance music underground has sprung into existence, transforming Seoul into one of Asia's premiere destinations for DJs and dance music aficionados alike.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, many of the city's most interesting underground dance music venues are found in Itaewon.
, located in a basement a stone's throw away from Itaewon Station, is a small, intimate space that caters primarily to fans of deep house, though it will occasionally host DJs playing other styles (such as techno or disco).
Speaking of techno, fans of this harder, darker form of dance music are spoilt for choice in terms of Itaewon clubs. The neighborhood is home to three excellent techno institutions ―
,
and
― all three of which have either moved locations recently or undergone significant renovations, which perhaps speaks to the health of the techno scene and the growing popularity of this kind of music in Seoul. All three clubs regularly fly in techno DJs from all over the world to play at their parties, and these international acts, supported by a host of hard-working and talented local Korean DJs, often force techno enthusiasts to make difficult choices as to which club to hit on any given weekend night.
Cakeshop in Itaewon / Photo by Husumu
Meanwhile, a little further down Itaewon-ro towards Yongsan Garrison,
has established a reputation as one of the city's most-hyped nightlife locations, straddling the divide between Seoul's mainstream and underground dance music cultures and playing a broad and eclectic range of musical styles, from hip-hop to U.K. bass music to Chicago footwork, and everything in between. Not to be overlooked is its upstairs sister club,
, which boasts a mellower atmosphere and typically plays a selection of house music and melodic techno.
The underground dance scene isn't confined solely to Itaewon, of course. Located a little further afield, in a basement venue in trendy Hapjeong,
favors a slightly more serious and cerebral style of techno. And beyond the confines of the clubs, the
series of warehouse parties, held in various industrial spaces around the city, provides Seoulites with a more raw “rave” experience.
The abovementioned venues represent only a tiny fraction of Seoul's underground. The scene here is booming, thanks to the efforts of a small handful of dedicated DJs, clubs and promoters who together have succeeded in building a small but passionate and ever-growing dance music community.
Contra in Itaewon / Photo by Jennifer Cheng
Jon Stein posts about the Seoul electronic music scene on his blog Seoultronic
.