Swimming in the East Sea
By Simon Phillips
When the city gets too hot to handle _ think water. Turquoise waters and sandy beaches make the East Sea the perfect place to dip one’s toes.
The farthest north that one can safely swim is Hwajinpo. This 1.7-kilometer pine tree-edged shoreline is the last coastal spot before anti-north fencing and barbed wire closes off the sea.
Though it is possible to gain access to the beaches just south of the 38th parallel, one must be in the company of locals such as fishermen who have the keys to the gates.
However, one must not complain about Hwajinpo; a scenic setting beneath the awesome Mount Seorak, reached within 25 minutes by bus from Ganseong National Bus Terminal.
The waters here are shallow and pure, lending themselves to inexperienced swimmers or paddlers. Since a natural bay hems in the beach, there is no danger of strong currents.
Strong leaders likewise have moved to the area; historical villas are located nearby, which once belonged to the late North Korean leader Kim Il-sung and the late South Korean President Syngman Rhee.
Twenty kilometres north of Hwajinpo lays the 38th parallel. Beyond this danger zone stretch lay some of the most wonderful shores on the East Coast.
There is a marked difference in landscape north of the border, where rocky mountains stretch down to meet sands unmarked by foreign footprints. It is a tantalizing view, which might encourage a hardy swimmer to breach the border.
In the classic American movie ``The Swimmer,” Burt Lancaster makes an inspired decision to swim home via all his friends’ pools. It is an epic tale set within a quirky frame, which crosses borders of mind and society through the medium of swimming.
Two kilometers from Gangnung City is another choice swimming beach called Gyeongpo. Off the shore of Gyeongpo there are two small rocky islands.
The depth between the first island and the shore never exceeds 12 feet and currents are minimal. Swimming to these islands is a good test for a man of the sea, perhaps with flippers on and harpoon in hand.
When the breeze is up, swimmers must power through each cresting wave, but it improves one’s muscles and endurance.
The only real threat to the swimmer here seems to be speedboats. Since most people do not appear to be of a swimming disposition, perhaps due to the way the beach shelves to a depth of eight feet within four meters of shore, speed boat rides offer an alternative thrill. The bobbing head of a swimmer is often hard to spot from a boat, particularly in choppy waters or at twilight.
Evidently, there is no danger from sea life whilst swimming, as the fish are displayed abundantly in tanks outside the many restaurants which line the shore of this popular summer hang out. To see fish in the wild, one must travel a little further off shore to Ullung Island.
About 120 kilometres east of the Korean Peninsula, the waters surrounding this stratovolcano which rises from the sea floor, offer a swim on the wild side. There are no sandy beaches here. The northern coast of the island must be travelled by sea or high cliff path.
One can find rocky inlets beneath towering cliffs where there is not a soul in sight, save for the seagulls whose shrill cries persistently break the peace.
In this wild and treacherous environment, locals dive for sea urchin, clams and other seafood, which are eaten raw.
Swimming at Ullung Island is for the hardy. There are ample cliff jumping opportunities, but powerful currents surge around the rocks.
The poetry found in swimming is a way to escape daily life, to feel free and alive. The sensation we feel in water is a return to nature.