Seochon residents struggle with life behind police lines

By Jon Dunbar

The cozy neighborhoods of Seochon and Bukchon, located on either side of Gyeongbok Palace in central Seoul, resemble medieval villages under siege on weekends. When Korea’s populace floods downtown streets demanding President Park Geun-hye step down, police fortify these areas to defend nearby Cheong Wa Dae, making life hard for the President’s neighbors. But most are prepared to tough it out.

“The police try to be chill and let residents through, but sometimes you’re out of luck and have to try another route or wait until things are over,” said Jennifer Flinn, an American living in a Nuha-dong hanok.

She and other Seochon residents face multiple police lines during rallies. Police block off streets, public buses are canceled and subways bypass Gyeongbokgung Station.

For Bukchon residents, Anguk Station remains open.

“We tell guests to come by subway. Getting here overland is problematic,” said Tom Coyner, an American consultant and photographer living in Gye-dong. “Still, the police have consistently been courteous and accommodating in allowing folks through their security lines.”

Yong Sun-mi, an artist living in Singyo-dong, had different experiences coming home late after work.

On Nov. 12, she tried catching a bus home around 11 p.m. through Jahamun Tunnel, only to find the tunnel closed. She climbed the hill and cut through private property, then faced a police bus wall cutting her off from her street.

“When I showed my ID, the police didn’t even recognize the address and had to search on Naver Map to make sure I lived there,” she said.

It took two hours extra for her to get home.

The following Saturday, she got home by crawling under police buses at Gyeongbokgung Station.

Yong said her neighbors had to park illegally because they couldn’t drive home. “Police just said it wouldn’t matter on this special occasion,” she said.

When contacted, Jongno Police claimed they had no official policies for residents.

“Before, I loved this area,” said Yong. “But that was the first time I regretted choosing to live here because of the President.”

“It’s almost the price of living here,” said Flinn. “Seochon is a unique and beautiful neighborhood, largely because of its proximity to symbolically important spaces. It’s hard to then turn around and complain because people are using those spaces in ways they’ve a public right to.”

Coyner also remains supportive.

“Regardless of the inconvenience, we essentially sympathize with the protesters’ cause,” he said.

“I can endure it till she comes down,” Yong added.