Historic Restaurant Relocating - The Korea Times

Historic Restaurant Relocating

By Han Sang-hee

Staff Reporter

Hanilkwan, a traditional Korean restaurant located in Jongno, Seoul, will suspend its 70-year service for a reconstruction project in the area in May.

The famed restaurant will move to Gangnam, southern Seoul. ``We are moving, not completely closing. Still, the staff and our customers feel sad that we have to leave where we established so much so long ago,'' said Kim Jung-ok, the restaurant's executive manager.

Founded in 1939 by Shin Woo-gyoung, the restaurant gained popularity for its traditional food and welcoming atmosphere. It is a family-owned and operated business covering three generations and is currently operated by Shin's granddaughters ― Kim Eun-sook and Kim Ie-sook.

This was also the place where Korean bulgogi (traditional marinated beef) all began. Shin reinvented the expensive ``neobiani'' dish (roasted marinated beef slices) into the easy-to-cook and relatively cheap bulgogi.

For its excellent cuisine and hospitability, many customers, including celebrities and politicians, have become loyal patrons. On hearing the news that they will not be able to visit the old restaurant, many expressed disappointment, yet also gratitude for the service they enjoyed.

``The food is the main reason I come here. I've been a customer for more than 20 years. It's too bad that they are moving, so many people will miss this place,'' Kim Jae-hyung, 72, a noted drama producer and director, said.

Kim, who specialized in dramas depicting Korean history, said that he was very interested in the traditional food Hanilkwan offered.

Another steady customer to the restuarant said ``I have been coming here for more than 10 years. I heard that they will still open a new one in Gangnam, but it won't be the same.''

Having a 70-year history was not easy, the owners say, adding that it was possible with the help of their loyal customers and also the employees who have worked with them.

One of the oldest employees, Chang Yan-kee, 73, talked of his fond memories as a young boy who started work as an assistant and later became the restaurant's parking lot manager.

``I have worked here for the past 50 years. It will feel like losing a friend when they pull down this building. It's sad, but the restaurant's tradition will stay the same,'' said Chang with a smile.

sanghee@koreatimes.co.kr

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