In Cappadocia and Meteora
Walking the pilgrimage trail in the footsteps of Saint Paul, my heart has been renewed.
Among the changes in my perception that occurred during the pilgrimage, the most vivid is Paul’s frail appearance. Most portraits or paintings illustrate Paul as resolute and determined, often holding a sword in one hand and the Gospels in the other.
However, his actual appearance is far more human. According to the guide, Paul was bald, short and stooped. He was a slight and frail figure.
Then where did his inner strength come from? Where did the inner fortitude, which allowed him to endure and persevere despite limitations and obstacles, come from?
Cappadocia in Turkey and Meteora in Greece offer a glimpse into the remarkable power of nurturing dreams and hope, no matter the circumstances. The incredible and mysterious inner strength inherent in all humans is a gift of God. And this inner power has been sustained by culture, history, nature and the physical environment. The profound inner strength of us all, including Paul, allows us to overcome various difficulties and move forward constantly.
Numerous underground caves are present in Cappadocia, created not by Christians but by the remnants of war. Around 1,200 B.C., the Hittite Empire fell and Asia Minor entered a dark age. As various divided kingdoms fought among themselves, the remnants had to dig underground caves for refuge.
Later, Christians fled persecution by the Roman Empire and lived in the caves for more than 1,200 years, building churches and painting murals within. In the 4th century, the place where theology and spirituality flourished was not Rome, Constantinople or the Ephesus region of Asia Minor, but the remote province of Cappadocia in central Turkey. It was here that Basil the Great, Gregory of Nazianzus and Gregory of Nyssa, known as the three Cappadocian fathers, were active.
Derinkuyu, meaning “deep well,” is a massive underground city constructed up to 120 meters underground. At present, eight levels are accessible for exploration. As the number of refugees increased, more space was needed. They constantly dug sideways and downwards, creating a labyrinth. Traces of churches, frescoes, granaries, wine cellars, artesian wells and millstones that blocked the entrances still remain.
In 1923, when Turkey became an Islamic state, Eastern Orthodox monks migrated to Greece, establishing monastic colonies on mountaintops. Mount Athos and Meteora are good examples. In Meteora, meaning “suspended in midair,” six monasteries (Great Meteoron, Varlaam, St. Stephen, Rousanou, Holy Trinity and St. Nicholas Anapausas) are still open.
The rocky peaks that formed about 60 million years ago were once part of the sea, but erosion by water and wind, tectonic movements, weathering and earthquakes revealed a spectacular array of conical stone pillars. What was once the sea is now a towering mountain. What was once a temple turned into a church, and then a mosque.
Christians migrated to the underground caves of Cappadocia, but now, Turkey is 99 percent Muslim. Christianity in Cappadocia lasted for about 1,200 years. The birthplace of Paul the Apostle and the places that he traveled endlessly for missions in Turkey are now filled with pilgrims.
Despite differences in religion, race and nationality, the inner strength that transcends human limitations flows freely, like the wind and clouds.
Kim Ae-ran is a member of the Daughters of Saint Paul (Figlie di San Paolo), living the Good News and proclaiming it through various means of social communication.