Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.
Whispers of the past: Jeongdong from the air in 1960
The Jeongdong area as seen from a helicopter in 1960. The former Russian legation's white tower can be seen in the center-left. Robert Neff Collection
By Robert Neff
In the fall, the Jeongdong area of Seoul is one of the most beautiful places in the downtown area for a quick afternoon stroll. The whispers of the past follow you as you walk along the cobblestone roads, framed by the gingko trees in their brilliant fall colors.
In the late 19th century, this was where most Westerners living in Seoul dwelt.
The Union Club answered the needs of the whole community while the German Club (later the Diplomatic Club and then Seoul Club) answered the needs of the gentlemen who wanted to get away from the disapproving eyes of their wives or their missionary peers.
According to the photographer, the building marked with an “x” is the old Seoul Club building. The rear of Deoksu Palace can be seen at the top of the image. Robert Neff Collection
Shops selling foreign goods once lined the streets ― readily purchased by the Western residents despite the inflated prices. It was here (or very nearby) that the first Western-style hotels opened in Seoul and where the last Joseon king sought (somewhat unsuccessfully) sanctuary from international politics and intrigue. The tides of change washed over the peninsula and the monarchy was unable to stop it.
More than a century has passed since the demise of Joseon and yet some of these sites still remain.
Deoksu Palace still dominates the district, while the American ambassador's compound and the British embassy still occasionally host galas and events for their nationals living in Korea. The lone white tower marks the spot where the Russian legation once stood ― tales of secret tunnels and escape routes still abound. And serenity surrounds the old churches and the early schools.
There are many images taken of this district from the perspective of man ― ground level and up-close ― but there are not many taken from the air. These images, taken from an American helicopter in 1960, give an idea of what the region once looked like.
The view of Seoul from the air. Robert Neff Collection
It is hard to imagine Seoul with no tall buildings. Robert Neff Collection
The dotted green line marks the former Russian legation/embassy compound. Robert Neff Collection
Deoksu Palace, seen from the back. So much has changed. Robert Neff Collection