Nonconformist designer
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Jung Hee-zin
Jung Hee-zin gives whatever it takes to stay unique
By Rachel Lee
She is a show stopper. Her carte du jour at Paris Who’s Next had what the fashion industry craves for ― carefree frame of mind filled with a bit of wittiness and humor.
Her first collection at the show skillfully mixed prints with house components such as wardrobes, doors and keys, and with natural elements like birds and a blue sky with a single cloud pouting water on a gorgeous tangle of leaves and flowers.
And it instantly flew off the shelves.
“I am a maximalist and intend to stay this way no matter what local shoppers comment about my creations,” says Korean designer Jung Hee-zin in an interview at showroom Ledome in Dongdaemun, Seoul.
The mastermind of the label chez HEEZIN was chosen this year as one of the up-and-coming designers by The Korea Apparel Industry Association for her rather quirky prints and dramatic color variations.
A miniature version of her atelier and collections are displayed at the showroom, which was designed to promote K-fashion by providing a bridge between young, talented designers and overseas buyers.
“This tea-themed bijou atelier reminisces about my life in England. I used to enjoy afternoon tea, a quintessential British custom and lovely scones and the ambiance. And I love to tell the stories like this on the drawings, the basis of the prints. Every printed image has a story behind it,” says the 31-year-old artist, who also runs her second line petit H.
As a Central Saint Martins’ graduate, she worked with two British big guns ― Alexander McQueen and John Galliano ― and received a job offer from Italian designer Antonio Marras. But she turned down the proposal and flew back to her hometown, heading for Project Runway Korea Season 3.
“Working with two superb British designers was amazing. Unlike the United States where juniors are buried under a pile of paperwork, I actually took part in production process like creating samples and stuff,” says Jung.
It’s also interesting to see her dummy books from the college. For fashion students, dummy books are the backbone of the process when creating art.
The photos show chez HEEZIN’s 2014 F/W collection. / Courtesy of chez HEEZIN
“Without this process, your work becomes higgledy-piggledy. It will be a disaster and completely incoherent. But a lot of designers here have skipped this part and focus instead on suiting shoppers’ palate, producing something that is highly saleable and commercial,” says Jung. “That’s probably why we don’t have any star players here. Now that I am based in this country, the one and only philosophy is keeping my brand identity,” she adds.
chez HEEZIN is currently a very popular clothier especially in Middle East countries.
“Polygamous cultures have caused competition among wives and therefore a high level of desire to look impeccable. They tend to go for something flashy to stand out from the rest,” explains the designer. “And that’s what they love about my designs.”
The creative director is also planning to enter the Russian market this year with her first line.
“No failsafe pieces for me just to increase sales. And just because I am working in Korea doesn’t mean I need to make something that appeals to local consumers,” says Jung.
“Even if you don’t like my creations and see them as inedible, fine. You don’t have to buy them. And if you like my identity, that’s great, too. I just do what I want,” she added Jung.