Fashion Weeks finale a bang, spring looks sharp
By Ines Min
Expect next spring to bring not only fair weather, but dropped hemlines and curved silhouettes nestled among a balance of worker chic, country prep and bold flair.
The 21st Seoul Fashion Week came to a close last Thursday, heralding next year’s season with a return to extravagance after years of economic gloom.
Smoothed jacket bottoms and classic shoes — from oxfords to thicker, triangular heels — were the ubiquitous details for next summer, in both men’s and women’s wear, combining softened curves with clean, minimal looks. The absence of high hems contributed to the retro feeling of old-school charm and conservative sensuality, as many of the shows paid homage to generations past.
Pastel plaid, two-toned button-ups paired with drivers’ caps and khakis dominated the runway during day one’s General Idea showcase by Choi Bum-suk, while the casual look of suspenders with looser, cargo-pocketed pants made an appearance at Hong Sung-wan’s Roliat men’s wear show.
The opposite end of the spectrum — a return to country clubs and easy prep style — was seen in the interior design-inspired men’s line of Andy & Debb, who only dived into male collections last year. Knee-length shorts, just-short jackets adorned with lapels smoothly curving into oversized pockets lent a fresh, futurist take on the usual tailored lines.
Women’s wear saw Jung Hun-jong’s Fashion Story take note from Wong Kar Wai’s “In the Mood for Love,” with bold reds and 1960s smoky elegance. Alternately, Lee Jean-youn of his eponymous brand brought full, puff skirts to above the knee, while Lee Doii of Doii Paris saw sharp curves silhouetting models in watermelon pinks and greens.
The culmination of the 10th year of Seoul Fashion Week ended in a bang, in the effusive finale by Gee Choon-hee of Miss Gee Collection. With disco balls hung from above, the lights dimmed to a massive outcry of models cheering and clapping for one last party. Making her way through the decade, Gee adorned her models with updated looks taking from the 20s to the 70s, with dropped-waist dresses, long cardigans, flower power-yellow daisy patterns and beehive ‘dos.
On the financial side of fashion week, this season saw the further distribution of veterans Choi Bum Suk of General Idea and current favorite Choi Ji-hyung of Johnny Hates Jazz, although overseas buyers were scarce on the last day of shows (only three occupied the designated seats during the final two shows).
The former expanded into the Russian market with Moscow’s Cara & Co. with a $68,000 deal, struck a $25,000 contract with Hokkaido’s Mixxjam, and is currently in talks with Singapore’s Actually PTE LTD and Hong Kong’s Harvey Nichols. Choi Ji-hyung is working out the final details of a contract with New York’s Babel Fair and Oak, and Kuwait’s Al Wod Fashion.
Lee Suk-tae of KAAL E. SUKTAE stole into Paris with L’eclaireur, Tokyo with Joyce and Beirut with Loft by Aspuces, while additional deals were made with Dusseldorf’s Fashion Clinic and Seven New York for contracts worth a total of between $70,000 and $80,000.
Kang Dong-jun is working with London’s Poison Angel, while Im Seon-oc of IM Seonoc and Hong Hye-jin of Studio K are also in talks to gain gateway into the international market.
inesmin@koreatimes.co.kr