Paul Smith: finding a creative balance

By Ines Min

Paul Smith did not grow to become one of Britain’s most well-known designers for nothing.

The man behind those colorful stripes held court Monday to a rapt crowd of designers, students, artists and more at the KT Olleh Square in Gwanghwamun, providing a first-hand account to some of the secrets that led him to his multi-million business.

``The key point is that it’s a talk, not a lecture,’’ Smith opened, establishing the light-hearted ambiance characteristic of his animated, gesture-infused manner ― quick dance steps used to emphasize his points.

The 64-year-old is known for bringing a charming quirk to the business doddery of suits and the bold, luxurious stripes that have adorned some of his most recognized items since the early 1990s. Knighted by the Queen in 2000, Smith once dreamt of becoming a professional cyclist, though an accident led to a dead-end to those dreams, leading him instead into the world of design. After opening a small shop in hometown Nottingham in 1970, his steady persistence and loyalty to his vision saw the rise of the Paul Smith brand.

``I had no college education ― I left school at 15 ― but what was lovely was I was learning from life, and the importance of common sense, the importance of communication,’’ the designer said of those early days, when he decided that drastic measures were needed to keep his store alive. At that time, his shop opened for business only on Friday and Saturday. ``Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday (I’d) do anything to earn a living, so that I could keep the two days in my shop really pure.

``And because I’ve kept it pure, that’s why I’ve managed to progress.’’

His background undoubtedly fed into his business savvy and careful balance of the innovative and commercial.

``It’s a very competitive world, so therefore you need to have knowledge of many things ― not just design.

``Because remember, if I’m designing this suit, I have to make it, I have to make it beautifully, I have to make it the correct price, I have to sell it, I have to get paid by the people who buy it,’’ he said. His own first collection consisted of three shirts, two trousers and two jackets ― all shown from his Paris hotel room, where a single buyer visited, but placed an order. ``I have to communicate to the person why Paul Smith is interesting.’’

``You need to get the balance right between paying the rent: black, baby blue, grey; and then attention-seeking pieces, which are going to keep you in the minds of celebrities and the minds of magazines.’’

The designer’s own inspiration comes from real-life, and his photographs of postage stamp-made Union Jacks, pattern books and long-exposure shots of Japanese traffic have been translated into the lining of suits and scarf designs.

``So very wearable clothes always with a sense of `this is really special, this is really special.’’’

inesmin@koreatimes.co.kr