Jinan: Korea's open-air museum of geological wonders
More than 80 conical stone spires built by hermit scholar Yi Gap-ryong in the late 19th century can be seen at Tap Temple in Jinan, North Jeolla Province, Oct. 29. Courtesy of National Geoparks Secretariat
Ancient stones, distinctive pagodas draw global travelers to North Jeolla wilderness
JINAN, North Jeolla Province — Just a 30-kilometer drive east from Jeonju Station, the rolling green mountains of North Jeolla Province give way to a sight that feels entirely alien yet deeply sacred as two colossal weathered rocks bearing a striking resemblance to a pair of giant horse ears rise abruptly out of the forests of Maisan ("horse ear mountain") Provincial Park.
Stepping into this high-plateau region, which forms an integral part of the Jinan-Muju National Geopark, visitors are immersed in the unique landscape that earned Mount Mai three stars in the prestigious Michelin Green Guide, the highest possible rating.
First time visitors will immediately be struck by the texture of the mountains. Rather than the granite found in most places on the peninsula, the giant cliffs here are made of conglomerate sedimentary rock, pockmarked with thousands of hollow cavities known as tafoni.
Geologists believe these unique depressions were created during the Fourth Ice Age, when water trapped in fissures in the rock repeatedly froze and thawed, expanding and shattering the stone from within.
Conglomerate rock is pockmarked with thousands of cavities known as tafoni at Maisan Provincial Park in Jinan, North Jeolla Province, Oct. 29. Courtesy of National Geoparks Secretariat
Looking up at the sheer rock face, it feels less like standing before a mountain and more like looking at the flank of a primordial leviathan.
"About 100 million years ago, around the same period as the formation of Mount Everest and Zhangjiajie, this area was submerged under water before tectonic forces pushed it upward," explained Sim Tae-hyung, a geopark guide. "It boasts a remarkably rare shape, making it the world's largest single-scale formation of sedimentary conglomerate rock."
Sim noted that the region's recognition by the global travel registry triggered a massive influx of international travelers. "Ever since Mount Mai was featured in the Michelin Green Guide, foreign tourists have been pouring in, particularly from Europe," he said. "A decade ago, we saw fewer than a hundred Western visitors a year. Today, tens of thousands visit annually to witness this extraordinary natural marvel."
Along the riverbank of Unilam Banilam Valley, trees grow directly out of the rugged rock formations in Jinan, North Jeolla Province, Oct. 30. Courtesy of National Geoparks Secretariat
Surrounding these peaks, more than 80 spires of stacked rocks rise from the ground around Tap Temple, which is named for these unusual pagodas. Nestled directly at the base of the towering cliffs, these weather-worn stones stand as silent sentinels.
Built single-handedly by hermit-scholar Yi Gap-ryong in the late 19th century without mortar or cement, these spires have famously defied typhoons and mountain winds for over a century. Unlike traditional carved stone pagodas built to enshrine Buddhist relics, these were created by stacking rocks, accompanied by prayers and wishes.
"Constructed around the turbulent period of the Japanese colonial era, Yi spent 30 years building these pagodas alone," Sim said, reflecting on the site's mystical aura. "Lamenting the dark reality of the times, he offered earnest prayers to relieve the suffering of the people and save the nation. Without any mechanical tools, he built pagodas, ranging from under a meter to nearly 15 meters high. Even when violent typhoons blow, they might sway slightly from side to side, but they never collapse."
Suseonru Pavilion showcases traditional Korean architecture’s harmony with nature, built into a natural cavity in the rock formed by thousands of years of weathering, Oct. 30. Courtesy of National Geoparks Secretariat
In winter, Mount Mai reveals another mystery inside its crevices: "reverse icicles" that grow 10 to 35 centimeters upward as expanding ice pushes liquid through cracks into the freezing air.
The area's geological wonders extend to nearby historical structures as well. Perched inside a dramatic rock cavity carved over millennia by atmospheric weathering, Suseonru Pavilion in Jinan stands as a magnificent testament to traditional Korean architecture's philosophical harmony with nature.
This late-Joseon's two-story structure cleverly utilizes a natural tafoni formation as its protective canopy and rear structural wall. Built in 1686 by four brothers of the Gwangju Song clan as a serene retreat to honor their parents, the pavilion’s timber beams and curving rooflines seamlessly adapt to the irregular contours of the stone hollow above the Seomjin River basin, offering travelers an extraordinary synthesis of ancient geological history and refined human craftsmanship.
The view from Suseonru Pavilion in Jinan, North Jeolla Province, Oct. 30 / Courtesy of National Geoparks Secretariat
Together, these elements form a breathtaking integration of natural wonder and human devotion — a place where geology meets mysticism.
From emerald gorges to walking among clouds
Beyond the shadow of Mount Mai, Jinan’s raw geological drama unfolds further north along the deep mountain gorges of Unilam Banilam Valley. Here, the landscape shifts to a dense, emerald wilderness. The valley's evocative name — combining terms meaning "rock where the sun is blocked by clouds" and "rock that gets only half a day's sunlight" — hints at its secluded and majestic nature.
Wandering along the valley trail, the air becomes thick with the scent of pine and damp earth. Millennia of cascading mountain streams have sculpted massive, smooth-edged boulders that are now blanketed in vibrant layers of deep green moss. Along the riverbank, ancient pines and hardwood trees grow directly out of the rugged rock formations. It feels untouched, almost prehistoric — a pristine ecosystem preserved in the corridor of the ecopark.
A 100-meter-long pedestrian suspension bridge crosses above the gorge at Mount Gubong in Jinan, North Jeolla Province, Oct. 30. Courtesy of National Geoparks Secretariat
For those seeking a vantage point to look out over a vast tapestry of autumn colors, the journey leads directly toward the jagged teeth of Mount Gubong. Formed by ancient volcanic activity that sculpted its cliffs and sequence of peaks, this National Geopark site offers both a fascinating geological spectacle and one of the most thrilling hiking experiences in the region.
The highlight comes between the fourth and fifth peaks, where a 100-meter-long pedestrian suspension bridge swings 70 meters above the gorge. Stepping onto the narrow walkway, hikers are met by the cool rush of mountain winds. Looking down through the footway, the valley floor drops away, while an uninterrupted 360-degree panorama of North Jeolla’s misty mountain ridges unfolds into the horizon.
Walking across the bridge, suspended between rock spires and open sky, provides a breathtaking shift from the quiet, mossy depths of Unilam Banilam for a fitting finale to explorations of Jinan’s wilderness.
A birdeye view of the twin peaks of Mount Mai rising above a blanket of clouds in Jinan, North Jeolla Province, Oct. 30 / Courtesy of National Geoparks Secretariat
Behind the preservation of these remarkable landscapes stands the National Geoparks Secretariat of the Korea National Park Service. Established in 2013 as the central agency overseeing the management and operation of the nation’s geoparks, the secretariat has conducted extensive surveys and completed evaluations of more than 1,429 geological heritage sites across the peninsula and its offshore islands.
Today, the agency continues to expand its research, educational programs and infrastructure to ensure that the ecological and geological riches of sites like Jinan-Muju remain accessible, meaningful and deeply enjoyed by visitors from around the world.