Park Jin-hai primarily focuses on K-dramas, entertainment shows and actor interviews. Beyond that, she also pens articles covering the broader arts scene, with a particular emphasis on classical music, dance and various aspects of lifestyle. Since joining The Korea Times in 2013, she has made significant contributions in the realms of hallyu (Korean wave), industry news and international affairs.
Jilli SF turns makgeolli into Bay Area’s trendiest drink
Jeong Hwang-hah, owner of Jilli SF, a makgeolli (Korean rice alcohol) and tapas bar in San Francisco / Courtesy of Jilli SF
By Park Jin-hai
Tech designer turned entrepreneur to bring Seoul’s communal drinking culture to US
SAN FRANCISCO — Jeong Hwang-hah, the young owner of Jilli SF, is bringing makgeolli — Korea’s centuries-old rice alcohol — to the heart of the Bay Area, bridging her background in tech with the rising popularity of Korean drinking culture in the United States.
After spending years in the tech industry as a user interaction designer for Airbnb and several artificial intelligence (AI) companies, the 28-year-old made a shift to hospitality this year to launch Jilli SF, a San Francisco outpost of the popular Korean-inspired bar in Los Angeles.
Her motivation was a deep love for Korean culture and a vision to create a communal space for food, drink and connection in the U.S.
“I want Jilli SF to be seen as a Korean modern 'suljib,' but for everyone,” Jeong told The Korea Times. “I hope this place feels like a friend’s home — somewhere you can drop by after work, even alone, and instantly feel at ease. Familiar, yet new.”
After years designing interfaces and AI products, Jeong felt everything online was starting to blur together and realized people were yearning for experiences that felt tangible and human.
“People are craving something real — real experiences, real human connection, real stories. That’s what we’re creating here, in these small spaces” she said.
Her vision taps into the communal spirit of Seoul’s drinking culture, repackaged for a West Coast audience eager for authenticity, discovery and a taste of Korea that goes beyond K-pop and barbecue.
The original Jilli (meaning “truth” in Korean) in Los Angeles is branded as a “modern sool jib,” a contemporary take on the traditional Korean drinking den. But when CEO Dustin Donghyuk Lee approached Jeong about launching a San Francisco location, she shifted the emphasis toward craft makgeolli and promoted the spot as a “makgeolli tapas bar.”
"We have different targeting audiences. Jilli LA is in Koreatown, where it already brings in people in the neighborhood, whereas the San Francisco one is in the middle of nowhere, where it has to be a destination spot (and) where people need to Uber from and to," she explained.
Customers dine at the Korean-inspired makgeolli and tapas bar, Jilli SF. Courtesy of JIlli SF
Pushing makgeolli mainstream
Tucked in San Francisco’s trendy Mission District, Jilli SF has quickly become one of the city’s most desired reservations, with the cozy corner space fully booked most nights since its June opening. The menu expands on its LA counterpart, currently offering 18 varieties of craft makgeolli paired with Korean-inspired small plates.
Jeong said the decision to spotlight makgeolli was shaped by both her passion and the Bay Area’s culture.
“Younger people today aren’t drinking just to get drunk. They care about health and new experiences,” she said. “That’s why I wanted to focus more on makgeolli. Not many people in San Francisco have tried it or even heard of it, so I thought it would be meaningful to introduce this traditional Korean drink in a modern, approachable setting for a generation that’s eager to discover something new.”
She especially enjoys watching guests discover the lightly sweet, cloudy rice drink for the first time, paired with small plates with a modern Korean flair.
“For me, it’s really about seeing people happy,” she said, laughing. “Sure, it’s a lot of work, but when someone lights up over a bite of something delicious and says, ‘This is amazing, you have to try it!’ — that joy is contagious. I didn’t create their happiness, but everything here — the music, the decor, every tiny detail — was designed with care. When someone leaves smiling, that means the world to me.”
Jilli’s bottle list showcases a curated selection from craft makgeolli brewers in the U.S., featuring Brooklyn’s Hana Makgeolli, alongside Southern California producers such as Sang Makgeolli and Nomi Doga.
Working at Jilli SF, Jeong is continually struck by how quickly interest in the Korean rice alcohol is expanding.
“It’s incredible. [In September,] a home makgeolli brewers’ meet-up was held here — about 10 of us gathered, each bringing our own homemade batches to share. Aside from one guest, everyone there was American,” she said.
“One person told me, ‘I first read about makgeolli in a travel book. I had never tasted it (and) couldn’t buy it anywhere, so I decided to make it myself.’ Others said they discovered it while visiting Korea and started brewing to recreate that flavor back home. There’s this wonderful, growing community of enthusiasts.”
Jilli SF's Korean-inspired tapas bites, like wagyu yukhoe (raw beef) with seaweed aioli, center; perilla oil noodles, left; and honey butter chips, pair well with makgeolli. Courtesy of Jilli SF
Jeong’s entry into the market aligns with a surge in popularity for the drink in North America. The U.S. is the second-largest export market for makgeolli, after Japan. Exports to the U.S. grew by 7.9 percent, from $2.56 million in 2022 to $2.76 million in 2023.
Makgeolli sales in the U.S. reached an estimated $105.7 million in 2024, reflecting a wave of new interest and appreciation among American drinkers. The number is projected to more than double by 2035, growing at an estimated annual rate of 6.97 percent, according to a market report by Spherical Insights & Consulting.
The drink’s growing popularity stems from its reputation as a health-forward, rice-based beverage rich in lactic acid bacteria, alongside rising interest in low-alcohol drinks and continuing interest in Korean culture.
When asked about makgeolli’s appeal, Jeong said the magic lies in how it's made.
“Fermentation is so fascinating because depending on how long you age it or what ingredients you use, the flavor completely changes. It’s hard to recreate the exact same taste every time unless you’re a commercial brewer and that unpredictability is fun. Like, if I let it sit one more day or add burdock tea, I get a totally unique burdock makgeolli," she said.
"You can’t really make wine at home, but you can make your own fermented drink like this — that’s what makes it special. I think that’s why so many people start brewing it at home and eventually take it commercial."
Jilli x Nasung Sparkling Makgeolli was co-developed by Jilli and Nasung, a brewery based in Fullerton, Calif. / Courtesy of Jilli SF
Inventive menu
To make Korea’s centuries-old brew more accessible, Jilli SF offers a range of playful, modern formats — from makgeolli flights and artisanal bottles to a creative spread of Korean-inspired tapas.
Jeong describes Jilli SF’s menu as “familiar comfort with a Korean kick.” The makgeolli flight includes four small pours, each with distinct flavors and hues that invite curious newcomers into the world of Korean rice alcohol.
The food also has elements both familiar and new. Jilli's rigatoni alla vodka, a customer favorite, takes the familiar Italian pasta to another level by adding kimchi to the sauce for a spicy kick.
“People are always amazed and amused by that. They already know what to expect from the dish, but the kimchi twist surprises them. It’s playful in the best way,” she said.
One standout is the poutine, which replaces the traditional gravy with a savory jjajang sauce, made with the fermented black soybean base from Korea’s beloved jjajang noodles. Served over fries, it’s a fusion of Korean-Chinese and Canadian comfort food.
Another favorite is pork jowl marinated in gochujang (fermented chili paste) and grilled over charcoal. Rather than the typical Korean ssamjang sauce, it’s paired with a tomato-based ssamjang and a perilla leaf salsa verde, adding a touch of California brightness without losing its Korean soul.
Other offerings include honey butter chips, a nod to Korea’s cult-favorite snack, and fried chicken glazed in a sweet-and-spicy sauce.
Jeong's entrepreneurial dreams include making Jilli SF a launchpad for even more ambitious projects.
“One day I’d love to build a sprawling luxury sauna — a place in a high-rise where people can combine yoga classes and meditation with sauna sessions and just truly revive themselves. Opening a tea house is another dream on my list. There are so many incredible things in Korea, but still so much that’s yet to be discovered here.”