Often found at theaters and museums, Kwon Mee-yoo has covered a wide range of cultural fields from K-pop and dramas to theater and fine art for over a decade. Now as K-Culture Desk editor, she tries to connect Korean culture with global readers through fresh perspectives.
INTERVIEW Chef Park Jung-hyun elevates Korean cuisine to new heights
The multi-course Chef's Counter Tasting Menu at chef Park Jung-hyun's upscale eatery Atomix in New York / Courtesy of Evan Sung
By Kwon Mee-yoo
Atomix ranks 6th on World's 50 Best Restaurants 2024
Chef Park Jung-hyun of Atomix / Courtesy of Peter Ash Lee
Chef Park Jung-hyun, also known as JP, is at the forefront of culinary innovation at his New York restaurant Atomix, where he masterfully combines deep-rooted Korean traditions with modern gastronomy. Each dish, from the delicately flavored baby sea bream accented with gim bugak (seaweed chips) and kimchi to the zest of cheongju mieum (refined rice wine porridge) topped with firefly squid and sea urchin, tells a story of cultural exploration and gastronomic excellence.
Atomix's menu showcases Park's dedication to incorporating authentic Korean elements and language into his dishes. Noteworthy items like ganjang gejang (soy sauce marinated raw crab) served with mumallaengi (seasoned dried radish) highlight his commitment to preserving the authenticity of Korean cuisine.
Park explained that his decision to include Korean names and explanations was driven by a desire to "honor the cultural heritage and authenticity of our cuisine."
“While this has been well-received by many guests, we have encountered challenges in translating and explaining these elements accurately to non-Korean speakers. We address this by providing detailed descriptions, offering staff training on pronunciation and cultural context and encouraging diners to ask questions and engage with our team,” Park told The Korea Times in an email interview.
Park's contributions have not gone unnoticed. Atomix has secured two Michelin stars and recently clinched the sixth position on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list for 2024 — the highest ranking among North American restaurants — marking another triumph for "hansik," or Korean food.
The chef noted that such accolades "hold immense personal and professional meaning" as they validate his team's "dedication, creativity and commitment to excellence in Korean cuisine."
"These recognitions also elevate the global visibility of Korean gastronomy, paving the way for further appreciation and recognition on the international culinary stage," he added.
Park, who also helms acclaimed Korean restaurants Atoboy and Naro in New York, has significantly influenced the global perception and popularity of Korean cuisine. Once nearly unknown, Korean cuisine has gained recognition for its complexity, depth of flavors and cultural impact in recent years. As someone who has observed this transformation firsthand, Park shared his insights on the global recognition and acceptance of hansik.
Below is an excerpt of The Korea Times’ interview with Park, edited for clarity and readability.
The dining room of Atomix, which ranked sixth on the World's 50 Best Restaurants 2024 / Courtesy of Evan Sung
Q. Since establishing Atoboy in New York in 2016, in what ways have you witnessed changes in the local perception and popularity of Korean cuisine?
A. Initially, Korean cuisine was relatively unknown outside Korean communities, but over the years, there has been a remarkable shift. New Yorkers have become more adventurous and open to exploring different global cuisines, leading to a growing appreciation for the bold flavors and unique techniques of Korean cooking.
Q. What challenges do you face when presenting complex Korean dishes to a diverse audience, and how do you educate them about hansik?
A. One challenge is ensuring that guests understand the balance of flavors, textures and ingredients in Korean cuisine, especially dishes that feature fermentation or unfamiliar ingredients. We address this by offering detailed explanations on our menus, conducting educational events and engaging with diners to enhance their understanding and appreciation of Korean gastronomy.
Q. Can you give examples of how traditional Korean techniques are integrated with modern culinary practices at your restaurants?
A. One example is how we make our own “nuruk” (Korean fermentation starter) at the restaurant. While homemade nuruk is typically used to make makgeolli (Korean rice wine) or other alcoholic beverages, we use it as a base for our sauces or mix it with salt to use as a seasoning.
"Nettle egg jjim, Sugar snap pea, Freshwater eel, Nuruk" at Atomix / Courtesy of Evan Sung
"Ganjang gejang. Gim rice, Flying fish roe with Mumallaengi muchim" at Atomix / Courtesy of Evan Sung
Q. How do you maintain a balance between traditional Korean elements and local ingredients in your New York-based cuisine?
A. There is no specific or set way that I try to do things. Sometimes we lean more towards traditional methods while at other times, we embrace a more local approach. The key for me is to move and think freely. The ultimate goal is to create good food so I try to find my own balance to help me achieve it.
Q. Can you share the logistics and challenges involved in sourcing authentic Korean ingredients for your restaurants? How crucial is authenticity to your culinary philosophy?
A. We make efforts to source ingredients from Korea, but since we operate a restaurant in New York, we aim to use as many local ingredients as we can from the nearby areas. Rather than feeling the need to use specific ingredients for certain dishes, we approach our work with a more open mindset. However, we do source important ingredients like “jang” (fermented paste) from Korea as well as use Korean rice. Fortunately over the past few years, sourcing global ingredients has become much easier and more diverse, which I am grateful for.
Q. What are the fundamental elements or characteristics of hansik, and how do you adapt them for a Western fine dining context?
A. I don’t think there is a definitive answer to this. Many of us are working hard and carefully contemplating ways to diversify and globalize hansik, or “New Korean Cuisine.” These various efforts and directions will collectively advance Korean cuisine. As the new era of Korean cuisine unfolds year after year, we will watch excitedly as it continues to evolve.
The interior of Naro, chef Park Jung-hyun's newest establishment opened at the Rockefeller Center in New York last summer / Courtesy of Charissa Fay
Q. As a prominent advocate of Korean cuisine abroad, how do you handle the responsibility of cultural representation?
A. As a key figure in promoting Korean cuisine abroad, I feel a deep sense of responsibility toward representing my culture authentically and respectfully. This involves continuous learning, collaboration with experts and staying true to the core values and principles of Korean culinary heritage. Managing this responsibility requires sensitivity, open communication and a genuine passion for sharing the richness of Korean food and culture with the World.
Q. How do you see the future of Korean cuisine on the global stage? What role do you envision for your restaurants in shaping this future?
A. The future of Korean cuisine on the global stage is incredibly promising, with growing interest, recognition and innovation. I envision a dynamic landscape where Korean flavors, techniques and ingredients continue to inspire chefs and diners worldwide. Our restaurants play a vital role in shaping this future by pushing culinary boundaries, fostering cultural exchange and celebrating the diversity and depth of Korean gastronomy.