INTERVIEW Chef Park Seung-hun rides wave of K-culture to elevate Korean cuisine in Hong Kong
Gaesal Jatjeuptang ― consisting of pine nut soup, wanja (meatball) of hairy crab and Korean zucchini ― is the centerpiece of the autumn menu at the Korean restaurant Hansik Goo in Hong Kong. The menu is co-created by the restaurant's new head chef Park Seung-hun and founding chef Kang Min-goo. Courtesy of Hansik Goo
HONG KONG ― Hansik Goo, one of the top Korean fine dining restaurants in Hong Kong, introduces a seasonal journey through Korean cuisine in its autumn menu. The menu's centerpiece is Gaesal Jatjeuptang, created by the restaurant's soon-to-be head chef Park Seung-hun and founding chef Kang Min-goo. This standout dish is a harmonious blend of aromatic pine nut soup, wanja (meatball) of hairy crab, Korean zucchini and tofu, capturing the essence of the season in each bite.
When chef Park first came to Hong Kong to help launch Hansik Goo in 2020, he didn't imagine that he would lead its kitchen three years later. The promotion, recently announced by ZS Hospitality Group, follows the departure of the restaurant's former head chef, Steve Lee.
As one of the founding figures of Hansik Goo, Park has been instrumental in elevating the restaurant's stature, both in size and reputation. Despite opening in the middle of the COVID-19 pandemic, the restaurant moved to a new, larger venue and earned a Michelin star in 2022. As of now, it is the only Korean restaurant with a Michelin star in the city.
“Hansik Goo's restaurant brand and food quality developed a lot over the last three years. We survived the pandemic, moved the restaurant from Lyndhurst Terrace to The Wellington in Sheung Wan and sought transformation by offering a higher-end dining experience. Earning one Michelin star was meaningful because we've gone through a lot together," Park said during a recent interview with The Korea Times.
Chef Park Seung-hun was recently promoted to the executive chef of Hansik Goo, three years after joining the restaurant to assist its opening amid the pandemic. Courtesy of Hansik Goo
From Uijeongbu to Hong Kong
Park’s culinary journey began at a young age as he spent his teenage years working at his mother’s restaurant in Uijeongbu, just north of Seoul.
"After school, I would help my mother who worked seven days a week non-stop. She taught me about mental toughness," he said. "By the time I was a high school junior, I had to choose a career path. My uncle ran a Western restaurant around that time, and he offered me a job in his kitchen,” he said.
His passion for cooking ignited then and led him to major in Hotel Culinary Arts at Kyungmin University. After graduating, Park worked at a number of dining establishments, including Sorrento, a popular Italian restaurant chain in Korea.
The pivotal moment came when he read online about Mingles, a modern Korean restaurant, during his military service.
"The story about Mingles was directly in my line of sight as if it was calling out to me. It was even before contemporary Korean cuisine gained traction. So I went to Mingles, tried the food and fell in love with it instantly. It was my first fine dining experience," he said.
Park secured an apprenticeship with Mingles' chef-owner Kang and, two months later, transitioned to a full-time role, making his entry into the world of fine dining.
Two years after that, Park shifted his focus to traditional Korean cuisine, joining Mama Lee Market, a Korean home-style deli led by chef Song Ha-seul-lam, a former culinary director at Mingles. In 2020, chef Kang invited him to join the opening of Hansik Goo in Hong Kong.
Interior of Hansik Goo, a Korean restaurant in Hong Kong / Courtesy of Hansik Goo
Asked if moving overseas required a great deal of commitment, Park simply said "not really."
"As a young chef, I have always thought it would be nice to have international experience. It was about cooking Korean cuisine and working with chefs whom I have known for years, so it wasn't too big of a burden for me," he said.
Park initially had difficulty adjusting to the new environment because it was his first time to earn the position of sous chef and live abroad.
"When I first came to Hong Kong, my English was really bad. That caused many communication problems in the beginning," he said. “My English improved over time and the team, consisting of Korean and local staff, came to understand each other better.”
Autumn Hweh, a seasonal raw fish dish spiced up with aged kimchi and Korean sancho pepper / Courtesy of Hansik Goo
Rising popularity of Korean cuisine
Park recently collaborated closely with Kang to develop Hansik Goo’s fall menu, reflecting the restaurant's evolving culinary vision that balances traditional Korean flavors with contemporary touches.
Starting with dishes like perilla seed porridge with caviar and raw beef with mushrooms as a starter, the course continues to Autumn Hweh, a seasonal seafood dish spiced up with aged kimchi and Korean sancho pepper.
The menu continues to offer Geumtae Gui ― grilled blackthroat seaperch glossed with gochujang (Korean pepper paste), alongside picked gat and garlic chives ― and hanwoo, or Korean beef, served over pyogo mushroom rice with a side of the day's banchan (side dish).
Dessert choices include iced persimmon or ginseng ice cream, while the Jang trio offers a unique blend of flavors with its doenjang creme brulee with ganjang pecan and gochujang powder.
Park said the most popular menu is Gaesal Jatjeuptang. "It’s hairy crab season, and locals like eating offal," he said.
"Korean cuisines taste the best when using Korean ingredients. Even with simple cooking methods, it tastes good when we use quality ingredients,” Park said, emphasizing that the restaurant regularly sources its seafood and seasonal produce from Korea at least once a month, apart from venturing to local markets to find inspiration.
Describing the flavors of Hong Kong as “rich and strong,” Park recognizes the need to enhance dishes to cater to Hong Kong palates.
"Korean cuisine is often deemed to have a ‘clean’ or ‘pure’ taste, but it could be ‘bland’ or ‘tasteless’ for some foreigners. So we prioritize enriching the taste of dishes," Park said.
Park Seung-hun, left, new head chef of Hansik Goo in Hong Kong, poses with the restaurant's founding chef Kang Min-goo of Mingles. Courtesy of Hansik Goo
Against the backdrop of a growing K-culture boom, Park sees an increasing appetite for Korean food.
"The growing popularity of Korean culture has been driving a boom in Korean cuisine. It’s been underrated for too long, and I’m glad it’s finally getting more attention," he said.
Although Korean food hasn't traditionally been viewed as high-end in Hong Kong in the way that Japanese cuisine has, Park observes a shift in local perceptions.
"Before, Japanese culture was highly popular in Hong Kong and people thought of Japanese food as an elevated cuisine. Nowadays, Korean culture is loved all around the world and Hong Kongers have been turning their eyes to new things. I want to take this opportunity to showcase Korean food as a refined cuisine," he said.
Park's ultimate goal is beyond just operating a decent Korean restaurant abroad, but bringing the authenticity and innovation of Korean cuisine to the forefront.
"Sometimes, I get feedback from Korean customers who say our food is too pricey or lacks quality. I want to prove that Hansik Goo is a place that offers authentic, high-quality Korean food," he said.