Seoul's local markets bustle as Lunar New Year approaches

Customers shop at Kyungdong Market, located in eastern Seoul's Dongdaemun District, Monday, ahead of the Lunar New Year long weekend. Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

By Pyo Kyung-min

• Published Feb 7, 2024 3:38 PM KST
• Updated Feb 8, 2024 2:42 PM KST

In the bustling alleys of Seoul's traditional markets, a captivating scene unfolds as long-time patrons meticulously select rice cakes and fruit for Seollal, or Lunar New Year, ceremonies, while just steps away, young people armed with smartphones dive into the latest hip cafes sprinkled throughout.

This striking juxtaposition of tradition and trendiness marks a vibrant revival of Seoul's markets, where the shadows of the pandemic have given way to a lively gathering space, attracting a mix of generations.

As the city breathes life back into these historic markets, a new wave of visitors, primarily Gen Zers, is being drawn in by the resurgence of retro styles, transforming the markets into multifaceted cultural spaces.

Here, Korea's old and new cultures collide and coexist, making these markets not only a place to shop for essentials but also explore and capture Instagram-worthy moments, reflecting the changing dynamics of Seoul's urban fabric.

Among these markets, Mangwon Market in Seoul's Mapo District stands out as an example. Originating around 1975 as a collection of small shops, Mangwon Market has evolved into a thriving community with over 40 years of history.

However, recent developments near Mangwon Market, including the opening of renowned restaurants targeting newlyweds and single-person households, have attracted a fresh demographic. Not only adjacent restaurants and bars but also specific dishes — ranging from deep-fried braised chicken to fried pepper — have already gained popularity among younger crowds.

On Friday, about a week before the Lunar New Year holiday, the area in front of Wooyirak, a pub inside Mangwon Market, buzzed with the sounds of young people eager to enjoy its signature combination of fried pepper and makgeolli, a traditional Korean rice wine.

One such visitor, Cho, a college student who typically doesn't frequent traditional markets, said she looked forward to dining at the popular restaurant with her friends.

"I know the restaurant has other branches, but I wanted to experience the original atmosphere here. I'm really excited," Cho said.

Kyungdong Market, also known as Gyeongdong Market, in Seoul's Dongdaemun District has also become popular among younger people. Once renowned as a traditional herbal medicine market founded in 1960, Kyungdong Market too has become an in-style tourist site after the pandemic.

Notably, Starbucks Kyungdong 1960 and Geumseong Radio Refresh Center by LG Electronics are two major reasons younger patrons come to the market.

The vintage-themed Starbucks is housed in a renovated theater originally built in the 1960s. The coffeehouse offers a unique experience at its Kyungdong 1960 branch with theater-style couches and classical beam projectors, maintaining the ambiance of an old theater.

A man inside the cafe, accompanied by his girlfriend, paid a visit to Kyungdong Market and opted to relax at the iconic Starbucks.

"We're taking a quick break. It's a landmark, and I've seen it a lot on Instagram. My girlfriend suggested coming here, and I was curious to see how it differs from a regular Starbucks," the man said.

Reminiscent of old days

Despite the youthful energy in certain areas, the central parts of the market retain their original character, with people bustling about preparing for Lunar New Year festivities.

Even while sleet fell on Monday morning, it failed to dampen the spirits of passionate market-goers eager for the traditional holiday.

True to its roots as a herbal medicine market, the air at the market entrance was filled with the aromas of various herbs and tree roots, while inside, stalls were stacked high with seasonal fruit, vegetables, nuts and grains. Long queues formed in front of butcher shops and seafood vendors as shoppers made careful selections.

The merchants hollered energetically to draw in customers.

"Chives now 3,500 won!"

"Rice cakes on sale and it's surprisingly good!"

Another merchant selling dried persimmons remarked on the bustling market despite the bad weather, indicating a festive atmosphere.

"There were a lot of people last weekend, and even though it's raining today, I guess the holidays are the holidays — yet another massive turnout. Nowadays, people say that families don't gather as much, but still, those who gather will gather somehow," the merchant said.

He also revealed that he will be visiting a Buddhist temple with his family for the holidays. "I'll just have to close the shop for that day."

For many, the appeal of traditional markets during the holidays lies in their competitive pricing. Essential items for ancestral rite tables, such as vegetables, meat and fruits, are notably cheaper at traditional markets compared to supermarkets.

According to the Korea Agro-Fisheries and Food Trade Corporation, the average cost of setting up an ancestral rite table for the Lunar New Year was 313,499 won, while the average cost at traditional markets was 279,861 won. These prices averaged 19.4 percent lower than those at large retail shops at 347,137 won.

As a result, thrifty consumers tend to favor traditional markets over supermarkets for the traditional holidays.

An old woman at Jegi-dong Station near Kyungdong Market shared that despite using a shopping cart from a local E-mart, she purchases all her groceries exclusively from Kyungdong Market.

"Because it's cheaper," she said, popping pieces of market-bought chocolate into her mouth.