39 Years of Serving Gukbap
By Lee Hyo-won
Staff Reporter
Myeongdong, the hotspot of Seoul's thriving youth culture, is ever evolving in sync with fleeting fads. But some things never change. Among the dizzying neon signs hangs Ttarojip's humble plaque that stands out because of its stark simplicity. The retro bright blue and red letters look like a specimen of the past ― and indeed the restaurant has been serving the same rich, hearty beef soup with rice for 39 years and counting.
Founded in 1969, Ttarojip has been attracting regular customers with its signature ``ttarogukbap'' for over four generations. It literally means ``gukbap'' ― rice and soup ― served ``ttaro,'' separately. It sounds simple enough, but the tiny button hole of a place ― a slim two-story venue that seats no more than 10 people on each floor ― sells up to 600 bowls of the beef broth a day.
Greasy tables and rickety red stools crowd the claustrophobic space, but Ttarojip's rundown charms draw in customers round the clock. The price, at 6,000 won, is relatively high for gukbap, but the quality makes up for it. There are no extraordinary ingredients, just slices of meat and veggies like radish and bean sprouts. There's also ``seonji,'' or clotted blood of cattle ― the black stuff that looks like blocks of hard tofu and drips with protein. But the soup has a perfect richness and tang to it ― a harmony of savory sweetness and a pinch of saltiness, and a deep, refreshing aftertaste. The secret? The broth's richness comes from a 12-hour boil. A simple assortment of three spicy side dishes complete the meal.
While ``ttarogukbap'' is its most symbolic treat, another hard to miss feature is the pan-fried ``jeon.'' The owner smiles brightly to customers as he flips over pan-fried ``jeon'' by the entrance. There are a dozen or so selections ― green peppers stuffed with meat or tofu patties are covered with a dust of flour, dipped in an egg mix and fried in a sizzling pan. It's coarse and oozes with grease, but this reporter couldn't help but savor each piece to the last crumb. The most popular choice is an assortment of jeon (10,000 won). There is also ``haemulpajeon,'' a large savory pancake with diced greens and seafood (12,000 won).
It is advised to avoid meal times on rainy or snowy days, as it overflows with people craving the hearty, steamy soup. It's a popular hangout place after hours, where groups of friends enjoy late night snacks with a bottle of soju.
Open 24 hours a day. Located next to Myeongdong Gyoja, near Myeongdong Cathedral by exit 8, Myeongdong Station, subway line 4. Call (02) 776-2455.