Mt. Geumgang Reveals Deeper Side of Elegance
By Ryu Jin
Korea Times Correspondent
MOUNT GEUMGANG, North Korea _ Mount Geumgang has opened the elegance of its inner part to outsiders for the first time since the pre-modern Korea was divided into two different systems -- the capitalist South and the communist North -- more than half a century ago.
Since it became accessible in 1998, Mount Geumgang has emerged not only as a popular tourist destination for South Koreans but also one of the few places in North Korea where foreigners could travel relatively easily.
But the inner part of the mountain, better known as ``Naegeumgang’’ in Korean, has been closed by North Korea despite the eight-year-long request by Hyundai Asan, the South Korean operator of the tour programs.
Geumgang-san, which has long held both aesthetic and spiritual allures for Koreans, could be divided into three parts: Naegeumgang (inner, western part), Oegeumgang (outer, eastern part) and Haegeumgang (seashore part).
In the past, most people took trains to Cheorwon to explore the 12,000-peak auspicious mountain -- they climbed up through Naegeumgang to get to the highest peak called Biro-bong (1,638 meters), looked around the Oegeumgang part and then came down to Haegeumgang of the eastern seashore.
Last Sunday, Hyundai Asan invited some 150 people from various fields in South Korea including the media for a two-night, three-day pilot tour to the Naegeumgang area ahead of its official operation for ordinary tourists, which starts today.
Long-Awaited Trip
``If Oegeumgang is considered as a masculine manifestation with impressive alpine features, Naegeumgang is looked upon as a feminine presence with elegant and scrupulous features,’’ says Kim Myeong-ju, a North Korean guide aboard a bus carrying the press corps.
South Korean tourists who spent the first night after an official reception the previous day were taken into six buses at 8:00 a.m. to climb the meandering asphalted road from their hotel in Onjeong-ri to the Manmulsang area of Oegeumgang, which has already been open to former visitors.
Kim, presumably in her mid-20s, talked to the South Korean guests in a gentle but sturdy tone of various legends related to rocks, peaks and valleys as the bus went through the thick forest wrapped in early-morning mist.
But the trip to Naegeumgang involved another one hour in the bus, which ran on a bumpy, dirt road before arrival at the Pyohun-sa temple, a main gateway to the newly open course.
No photos are allowed while moving on the vehicle. But the travelers could ``eye-picture’’ in their minds not only the majesty of the natural scenery but the livelihood of some North Koreans since the buses passed by several villages with schools, paddy fields and dry fields and even commercial buildings.
Instigating slogans and catchwords in red characters are seen sporadically on signboards throughout the 45-kilometer quiet road in addition to some children playing in the schoolyards, busy farmers in the rice paddies and military guards dressed in the well-known brown uniform.
``You know we could show our inner bedroom only to those who are really close to us,’’ Hyundai Asan CEO Yoon Man-joon told reporters. ``It must have been a big decision for North Korea to open up this path to Naegeumgang.’’
Former Unification Minister Lee Jong-seok, who climbed up the new Naegeumgang course, said it was quite meaningful that Pyongyang has finally decided to open the secretive area, given the strategic importance of the military bases in the areas facing the South’s Cheorwon.
Tong Kim, former senior interpreter at the U.S. State Department and now a research professor at Korea University, also attached much significance to the opening in political and military aspects. ``I think this is kind of a bold step,’’ Kim told The Korea Times.
Unknown Beauty
It was nearly 10:30 a.m. when the procession of buses arrived in front of Pyohun-sa, one of the four major Buddhist temples seated in Mount Geumgang.
Pyohun-sa was built in the 7th century during the Shilla Kingdom (B.C. 57-A.D. 935). Though its scale was not very large, the temple was surrounded by the refined sound of water running down from the grandiose peaks to the graceful valleys.
Hyundai Group Chairwoman Hyun Jeong-eun, who took part in the trip along with other dignitaries, entered the main sanctuary to pay an obeisance.
``What did you pray for?’’ journalists asked the 52-year-old business leader, who is known to be without any religion. After a shy smile, she opened her mouth: ``I just prayed that everything would go well.’’
The total distance of the path from Pyohun-sa to Myogilsang is only about 4.5 kilometers. But it took almost three hours for the return trip as the trail wound along a stream with glistering pools of water and picturesque views.
Made up of a total of eight small ponds, Manpokdong is the first masterwork of nature that greets the climbers. It has been cited as one of the three centerpieces of Mount Geumgang along with Ongnyudong and Manmulsang, both seated in the Oegeumgang area.
Bodeok-am, a monk’s cell that clings to a cliff, and Mahayeon are other spectacles that the tourists could encounter on their way to Myogilsang, a 15-meter-high Buddha statue inscribed on the wall.
Beside Myogilsang, there is a pathway leading to Biro-bong, the highest peak of Mount Geumgang that is linked to the ridgeline of Oegeumgang and then Haegeumgang. But a ``no passing’’ sign blocks the trail -- at least for now.
Hiking onto the Naegeumgang area gives tourists the delight of experiencing fresh features of Mount Geumgang. But it also gives them a sense of regret as grand rocks and stonewalls are damaged with propaganda scripts such as ``Speed Battle’’ or ``Live Long Juche Ideology.’’
Yoon told journalists that once the 500,000-pyong (408-acre) 18-hole golf course is completed in October, Mount Geumgang would be reborn as a new resort complex with ``things to see, eat, buy and enjoy.’’
Geumgang mountain resort already has five hotels with a hot spring spa, 11 restaurants including North Korean ones and a cultural center, where a North Korean acrobatics show performs each night at the theater. Hyundai Asan gave a preview of the film ``Hwangjini’’ during the pilot tour.
For Another Leap
Since the first tour to Oegeumgang in late 1998, more than 1.5 million visitors have made the trip to the mountain resort. Most visitors were South Koreans; fewer than 8,000 visitors came from 48 other countries.
But Hyundai Asan’s tourism business has often been affected by security situations on the peninsula. It met difficulties when North Korea conducted a nuclear test in October last year.
Amid the heightened tension, the number of tourists to Mount Geumgang plummeted to some 240,000 last year, putting a damper on Hyundai Asan’s target of securing more than 400,000 visitors.
``We set the target at 400,000 again this year. About 15 to 20 percent of the tourists are expected to visit Naegeumgang this year,’’ Yoon said. ``I hope the launch of the Naegeumgang tour would give us an opportunity for a second leap toward successful Mount Geumgang tour business.’’
By the end of May, about 100,000 people have made the trip to Mount Geumgang this year, according to Hyundai Asan spokespersons. They expected that the figure could reach the target as the high-demand season -- from May to October -- is approaching.
Yoon said the company would also try to revamp tour programs to draw more younger visitors as part of its new marketing strategy for the existing tour to the outer side of the mountain, Oegeumgang.
In addition to the dignitaries from political, bureaucratic and academic circles, Hyundai Asan invited a dozen of young entertainers including movie stars such as Cho Jae-hyun, Kwon Oh-joong, Lee Yo-won and Song Hye-gyo to the pilot tour.
Beside, Hyundai Asan said it would add two more tour sites called Munpil-bong peak and Beobgi-am rock to the Oegeumgang tour course as early as in June as part of efforts to diversify the tour courses.
``For now, the new course to Naegeumgang is open only three times a week -- on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday,’’ Yoon said. ``But we could increase the visiting days depending on the tourists’ response. And this has already been agreed to with North Korean officials.’’
The Naegeumgang tour would be operated from April to November for 420,000 won ($450) per person including a two-night stay in a hotel room, just 30,000 won higher than that of the existing tour program to Oegeumgang and Haegeumgang.
Each group would be made up of up to 150 visitors and the departing dates to the North Korean resort area are every Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
On the first day, the visitors would check in at the hotel and enjoy the North Korean acrobatics show and dine on unique North Korean food for supper. On the second day, they would explore the beauty of Naegeumgang, followed by a brief trip to Oegeumgang on the last day.
Those who want to experience the new beauty of Mount Geumgang are advised to apply for the trip at least 10 days before departure. For more information and application, visit Hyundai Asan’s Internet homepage (www.hyundai-asan.com).