Baek Byung-yeul is a journalist at The Korea Times focused on cultural content, including films and cultural events in South Korea. You can contact him at baekby@koreatimes.co.kr to share your insights.
Jeju-based company revives island's 1st knitwear brand
Employees of Hallimhandweavers of Jeju Island pose with their handmade wool products during the brand's early years in this 1960s file photo. Courtesy of Jaejusangwhoi
By Baek Byung-yeul
In an era dominated by fast fashion and globalized supply chains, a Korean content company is breathing new life into a historic regional brand, weaving together the past, present and future of the country’s textile industry.
Since 2021, Koh Sun-young, CEO of Jeju Island-based company Jaejusangwhoi, has successfully revived Hallimhandweavers, the island’s first and beloved wool knitwear brand, which closed its doors in 2005.
Koh said the decision to revive the knitwear maker, which was originally launched in 1959 and once provided livelihood and pride to more than 1,300 Jeju residents, was made in order to preserve and honor the island’s unique industrial heritage.
Koh Sun-young, CEO of Jaejusangwhoi, which operates Hallimhandweavers / Courtesy of Jaejusangwhoi
"The original founder, Rev. Patrick James McGlinchey, had a mission to create jobs so that young men and women would not have to leave the infertile island, because he held the profound belief that a business should always support its community,” the CEO told The Korea Times in a recent written interview.
The brand began in the late 1950s when the Irish Catholic missionary brought sheep to Jeju to help poor residents become self-sufficient.
Irish nuns taught local women Aran knitting patterns, as the women used these skills to create high-quality handmade knitwear that became famous across Korea.
Although the brand once employed 1,300 employees and operated stores in top hotels, it was forced to close in 2005 due to the rise of cheap mass-produced clothing and synthetic fibers.
Jaejusangwhoi started with the launch of a local Jeju magazine in 2014 and has since expanded its scope to the lifestyle sector as it focuses on creating sustainable local content.
Koh said the quality and longevity of Hallimhandweavers' original pieces convinced her that a brand with such an origin story holds timeless value.
"It perfectly aligned with Jaejusangwhoi's mission as a company to unearth and develop the most valuable local content,” she said.
Models wear Hallimhandweavers knitwear products / Courtesy of Jaejusangwhoi
Reclaiming legacy
Koh explained that the historical significance of Hallimhandweavers on the island is deeply personal for many locals.
"When Hallimhandweavers was restored in 2021, many women who remembered it cried, thinking of their mothers," Koh said. "In Jeju, Hallimhandweavers is like a memory of mother, a source of pride for the skillful and diligent women who supported their families, providing warm comfort against the cold island wind."
Koh said that she was able to meet many customers who still have their precious memories of the brand while she was reviving it.
"There are so many surprising and touching stories as we collected many memories from people who still remember and own Hallimhandweavers products, and I even met a daughter who still uses an old rainbow blanket inherited from her mother by patching the holes with silk fabric," she said.
"One person kept his or her late mother's sweater without ever wearing or washing it because her scent might fade away, and a middle-aged couple recently visited our pop-up store in Seoul wearing their old Hallimhandweavers sweaters to buy a new one for their future son-in-law."
Employees of Hallimhandweavers on Jeju Island knit detailed patterns in this 1960s file photo. The brand was founded by Rev. Patrick James McGlinchey, who brought sheep to the island, and Irish nuns introduced traditional Aran designs to help the local community achieve economic self-sufficiency. Courtesy of Jaejusangwhoi
However, she had to face a slew of challenges in reviving the brand. The original Hallimhandweavers used wool from over 10,000 sheep raised at the nearby St. Isidore Farm. Upon restoration, only 60 to 70 sheep remained, and Korea had only one factory capable of washing raw wool.
"We just did it," Koh said when asked how they overcame the logistical hurdles. "We believed it had to be done and it had to be the original way."
The team worked hard to make the right yarn for the clothes and brought back the unique patterns that represent Jeju. They even spent six months learning how to use the complicated machines again to recreate the brand's famous blankets.
Models wear Hallimhandweavers knitwear products. Courtesy of Jaejusangwhoi
Handmade in Jeju
While the company remains committed to local production, the supply chain reflects modern realities.
The revived brand initially incorporated about 16 percent of St. Isidore Farm’s wool into its yarn. This figure has now decreased to around 5 percent due to reduced sheep numbers and increased production volume. But, the entire process, from spinning the yarn to weaving and finishing the products, is conducted domestically, with all hand-knitted pieces created in Jeju.
"All our handmade products are made right here in Jeju as we are likely the only brand in Korea to do so. However, I am a bit worried because we need to produce more but the wool from the farm is limited, so we are looking for new ways to solve this," Koh said.
The brand adheres to its highly complex knitting methods but puts its focus on designs that are comfortable, long-lasting and can be worn anytime.
"Our design philosophy is to keep the advanced knitting methods of Hallimhandweavers while we focus on creating designs that anyone can wear comfortably and enjoy for a long time,” Koh said. “We also insist on using 100 percent pure wool because synthetic fibers cannot be recycled, whereas 100 percent wool can be completely broken down so that it can safely return to nature when it is thrown away.”
Their efforts have been met with enthusiasm. Signature cardigans are the most popular item, and demand for the small-batch hand-knitted line is so high that orders are currently closed until 2027.
Customers seeking custom-made items often travel to Jeju, showing how the brand naturally connects shopping with a visit to the island.
Sharing her vision, Koh said that the most valuable things are often found within local communities.
“A local brand’s biggest strength is its deep understanding of the local language and the details of daily life, which big companies cannot easily copy,” she said. “By uncovering and restoring these precious regional brands, we want to prove that new industries and creative jobs are possible right here in Jeju beyond just being a tourist destination.”