Embracing the cold

A view from outside the Santa’s Celebration House at Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort in Lapland

• Published Jan 21, 2015 10:41 AM KST
• Updated Jan 21, 2015 10:41 AM KST

How to enjoy the best of Lapland

By Yun Suh-young

The pain in my shoulders lasted throughout my trip to the northernmost part of Finland, after a bumpy ride called a husky safari, where six enthusiastic huskies pulled me on a sled.

The huskies run at 15-20 km/h for about 10 kilometers. All you do as a driver is hold on tight to the steering and keep one foot on the brake to prepare to stop. It takes a little over an hour for a round trip and two people can ride, each taking turns driving.

The ride was the most memorable experience during my trip to Lapland, which is within the Arctic Circle.

From beginning to end, the scenery during the sleigh ride was like a scene from a Christmas card.

More striking was the look of the participants after the ride. The sweat on our brows, with our eyelashes and hair frozen white, made us look as if we had aged during our outing.

The average temperature in the Inari and Saariselka regions, where we rode the huskies and did other activities, was -30C during the day, and as low as -38C overnight.

We had to keep our hands and feet warm at all times with two layers of gloves and three layers of socks inside waterproof winter boots.

The cold is beyond description. To avoid frostbite, we had to stick our hands into our pockets every time we snapped a photo, as well as hugging the camera inside our jackets so it would not freeze.

But the cold, even in Finland’s northernmost region, is still bearable. In fact, the longer you stay, the more used to it you get. You’ll be surprised when -20C feels like summer.

So when you are in Lapland, set your mind to embrace the extreme cold because there is plenty to enjoy.

Winter activities

The husky safari (143 euros per adult) was just one example of the winter activities people can enjoy. Reindeer safaris, aurora hunting, snowmobile safaris, and cross-country skiing are other options, to name a few.

If you are staying at Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort, 250 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle, visitors can experience the reindeer safari, which includes viewing the northern lights from a recommended observation spot.

The reindeer ride (119 euros per adult) takes about 40 minutes to and from the observation point, where you will stay for about 20 minutes to view the northern lights (if they luckily appear) and warm your body in front of a bonfire while drinking hot berry juice. The trip takes about two hours.

Keep in mind that the ride will be extremely cold because it takes place at night, and the six layers of clothing, including hired thick overalls, are not enough to keep you warm.

You will sit in pairs on a sleigh pulled by the reindeer, and because you are just sitting, it will feel even colder. One tip to prevent getting frostbite is to wear larger shoes than your original size to give the toes some room.

But if you are lucky enough to catch the northern lights, and manage to take photos, the trip will be worth it.

You can also catch glimpses of the aurora if you reserve an “igloo” at the resort. The igloo is made of transparent heated glass that automatically melts the snow as it falls, allowing a clear view from the bed.

It can be a little embarrassing when getting changed because the neighbors’ igloos are visible from waist up. Make sure to check the surroundings before taking anything off.

The snowmobile safari (99 euros for an adult) can be amusing for those who want to enjoy speed in the snow. The vehicle, which looks like a motorbike customized for snow, is easy to operate. Two people ride on one snowmobile and can switch seats to take turns driving. The uphill ride to the Panorama Huippu restaurant takes 40 minutes, and the downhill ride takes 20 minutes.

The ride is available from Santa's Hotel Tunturi in Saariselka, a region a little below Inari. Cross-country skiing classes for beginners (61 euros per adult) are also available at the resort.

Although cross-country skiing is common across Europe, the reindeer and husky safaris are unique to the region and offer rare experiences. So when in Lapland, do not miss out on these activities.

At the end of your adventures, get into a warm Finnish sauna. Many hotels have small saunas inside the rooms. If not, all hotels have free public saunas. Some hotels, such as the Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort, offer a smoke sauna, a traditional version of the wood sauna.

Food

Typical Finnish food includes reindeer meat, salmon, arctic char, wild berries and barley bread. Almost all the food comes directly from the clean natural environment.

Laplander food does not differ much except there is more reindeer meat because it is abundant and accessible, and fish from rivers. When in Lapland, be sure to try the reindeer meat even if you do not fancy it. Depending on the restaurant, there are different recipes, from stir-fried to grilled, and even raw.

Among the reindeer dishes I have tried, the one at a cottage restaurant in Saariselka called Laanilan Kievari was the best. The meat, which was in the oven for two hours, did not have the peculiar scent of most reindeer meat, making it easier to eat. The taste was delicious.

Airline:

Finnair operates a direct non-stop flight from Seoul to Helsinki once a day. The flight departing from Incheon International Airport to Helsinki Vantaa Airport takes 10 hours and the return flight takes 8 hours and 45 minutes.

To reach Lapland, take a flight from Helsinki to Ivalo airport which takes an hour and 30 minutes for a non-stop flight and 2 hours and 30 minutes for a stop at Kittila.

For more information, visit www.finnair.com.

Accommodation:

Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort

Address: 99830 Saariselka, Lapland, Finland

Phone: +358-16-667-100

Website: www.kakslauttanen.fi

Hotel Kultahippu

Address: Petsamontie 1, 99800 Ivalo, Lapland, Finland

Phone: +358 (0) 16-320-8800

Website: www.hotellikultahippu.fi

Santa's Hotel Tunturi

Address: Lutontie 3, FI-99830 Saariselka, Lapland, Finland

Phone: +358-16-681-501

Website: www.tunturihotelli.fi

Restaurant:

Laanilan Kievari

Address: Sateenkaarenpaantie 9, 99830 Saariselka

Phone: +358-40-023-9868

Website: www.laanilankievari.fi