Mastering the Tuxedo
By Todd Sample
Todd Sample Todd Sample is the president of Well Dressed Men’s & Women’s Tailoring and a 19- year resident of Korea.
Tuxedo. Sadly, for too many people, the word conjures up images of awkward high school prom dates spent in a poorly fitting “monkey suit.” With end-of-the-year festivities nearly upon us, however, it’s time for us to revisit this men’s formal wear staple.
Traditionally worn only in the evening and in black, tuxedos have evolved over time in terms of style. For those interested in wearing this classic look, however, there are several guidelines to keep in mind.
First of all, tuxedo fabric should be either black or a very dark blue and plain or slightly textured. Velvet, at least for the jacket, in the same color scheme, is also acceptable. Recommended tuxedo jacket designs range from single-breasted with one button and a peak or shawl lapel to double-breasted with a peak lapel.
A waistcoat, more commonly known as a cummerbund, is worn to prevent the white of the tuxedo shirt from being exposed below the jacket button. It is always worn with a single-button jacket but never with a double-breasted one. Make sure that the tuxedo jacket does not have a vent at the back but has a chest pocket that fits a simple white pocket square so that just a touch peeks out.
A white tuxedo shirt with French cuffs adds even more flair to an already glamorous ensemble. Although shirts with a normal collar and pleatless front are now often worn with a tuxedo, shirts with a turndown collar, pleated front and studs in place of buttons remain the classic tuxedo shirt of choice.
A black-tie event always requires a black tie and a tuxedo. The general rule is that the color of the tie should match the color of the lapel. Although clip-on ties are easier to find and wear than traditional ones that need to be tied, it is worthwhile to take the time to learn how to properly tie a bowtie because doing so instills a sense of pride and makes one the envy of others at the party who just clipped theirs on.
Tuxedo pants have a satin stripe down the side to the ankle. They do not have belt loops, but instead use adjustable clamps on the sides or suspenders to keep the pants from falling down as you accept your Oscar.
Among the most overlooked aspects of proper black-tie attire are shoes. Despite the common perception that any pair of black shoes will do, the appropriate footwear to accompany your tuxedo are simple patent leather oxfords or opera shoes with or without ribbons on the toes. Socks should be black, of course, and long and thin to the point of being almost sheer.
As a black-tie event usually includes dinner and dancing, men should forego most accessories. Since nothing should be bulky about your ensemble, skip the wallet and go for a money clip. Do you sport a thick watch that weighs more than a newborn during the week? If so, leave that at home in favor of the thinnest, lightest watch you have. No place to put your smartphone? Leave it in your car and focus on your date. After all, how often do you dress up in black tie?
With regard to how often you should dress up when going out, black tie does not need to be limited to year-end galas. Headed to the opera, a concert or even a movie? Make it a special occasion and put on a tuxedo! Meeting friends for dinner? Spice up your time together by making the evening’s dress code black tie. It’s the perfect way to make an ordinary Friday night fun and unforgettable.