I am covering trend, food and fashion. Previously, I covered diplomacy, city, environment and unification.
Korean imperial luncheon recreated for public tasting
A plate of six dishes recreating a meal served to Alice Roosevelt, daughter of U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt in 1905, featured during a tasting event at Jungmyeong Hall of Deoksu Palace in Seoul / Korea Times photo by Kim Se-jeong
By Kim Se-jeong
On Sept. 20, 1905, in Jungmyeong Hall of Deoksu Palace, Emperor Gojong of Korea hosted a luncheon for Alice Roosevelt, daughter of U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt. She was visiting the Korean Empire as part of a broader East Asian tour.
At the time, the empire was hanging by a thread — caught in geopolitical tensions between Russia, China and Japan. Just two months later, the empire and Japan signed the Eulsa Treaty, which laid the foundation for Japan’s colonial rule over the peninsula.
For more than a century, few gave thought to what had been served at that luncheon — until 2019, when Deoksu Palace launched an exhibition titled "The Emperor’s Dining Table."
This week, the Korea Heritage Agency (KHA) presented an immersive and flavorful event, bearing the same title, inviting guests to experience the imperial menu firsthand. The program is part of the ongoing K-Royal Culture Festival.
Of the 17 dishes reportedly served that day in 1905, six were recreated for Thursday’s tasting event — each plated in small portions. These included "goldongmyeon," noodles tossed with assorted ingredients and seasoning; "jangkimchi," a soy sauce-based water kimchi made with cabbage and radish; "hwayangjeok," skewered vegetables and meat arranged by color; "jeonbokcho," thinly sliced abalone simmered in seasoned soy sauce; "jeonyueo," white fish dipped in flour and egg before being pan-fried; and "pyeonyuk," thinly sliced boiled beef brisket.
This file photo shows Alice Roosevelt, daughter of U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt / Korea Times file
The dishes were prepared under the supervision of Lim Jong-yeon, a certified trainee in National Intangible Cultural Heritage for royal cuisine of 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty.
What stood out was the simplicity of the menu, reflecting the austerity of the time. Today, the ingredients are common and inexpensive — far from the lavish dishes one might expect at a royal banquet. Also notable was the complete absence of Western-style dishes — not even a cup of coffee — despite the presence of a foreign dignitary.
The tasting program concluded with a dessert plate featuring omija berry (Schisandra chinensis) tea with sweet glutinous rice balls, sliced lotus root and balloon flower simmered in honey and slices of fresh pear and grapes.
It was a symbolic opportunity to showcase Korean cuisine to non-Koreans — just as it had been over a century ago. In keeping with that tradition, only foreigners were invited to the program.
Merlin Liewers from Germany said he especially enjoyed the sweet and chewy lotus root. He was also excited to try abalone for the first time.
“I heard about it because I saw the Korean drama 'When Life Gives You Tangerines,' and I learned about the women divers in Jeju who catch abalone,” he said. “But I’d never tasted it — it was great.”
The luncheon was held in the same room where Emperor Gojong had hosted his guests 120 years ago. The atmosphere was elegant, with two long tables draped in white cloth, a small chandelier overhead and the flag of the Korean Empire hanging on the wall.
Participants taste a recreation of the royal meal served to Alice Roosevelt in 1905 at Jungmyeong Hall of Deoksu Palace in Seoul, Thursday. Korea Times photo by Kim Se-jeong
“We hope participants enjoy tasting and learning about Korean cuisine,” said a KHA official.
The program runs through Saturday, though it is already fully booked. An official noted that it may return next year and might open to Koreans as well. Visit the K Royal Festival's website for information about other festival programs.