Residence of 'yangban': Bukchon Hanok Village
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Tourists visit Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul on Dec. 25. / Korea Times photos by Kim Jae-heun
By Kim Jae-heun
Bukchon Hanok Village is a town of traditional Korean houses called “hanok.” The village earned its name, which literally translates to “north village,” for being located north of the two major landmarks of Seoul — Cheonggyecheon Stream and Jongno District.
The village neighbors significant historical sites including Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changdeokgung Palace and Jongmyo Royal Shrine from the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910), as it was the residential quarter for “yangban,” or the aristocratic class consisting of high-ranking government officials and noblemen in Joseon.
Hanok stand side by side densely on the narrow streets of Bukchon and many of the alleys still preserve the 600-year-old urban environment. Some 600,000 people visited the village in 2012 alone and it is considered one of the top tourist attractions in Korea.
The town operates art studios for tourists to offer a glimpse of Korean culture such as making traditional pendants and bracelets as well as learning to how to drink Korean tea properly.
However, tourists are asked to keep their voices down out of courtesy for the residents still living in Bukchon Hanok Village.
Baek In-je House in Gahoe-dong, Seoul
History of Bukchon
The large-scale land for yangban residences was divided into sites for small-sized construction for social and economic reasons in the late Joseon era. The concentrated hanok village in Bukchon is said to have been rebuilt around 1930. The change in form of traditional Korean houses in the village demonstrates how the population in the city had suddenly risen at the time, when the country underwent rapid urbanization.
The village has a handful of historic and cultural heritage sites representing the history of Bukchon from the days of Joseon Kingdom to the present.
Value of site
Bukchon is situated at the southern foot between the Bugaksan Mountain and Eungbongsan Mountain, making it one of the best dwelling sites in terms of feng shui theory, or geomancy.
The thick forests of Samcheong Park and Bugaksan Mountain sit to the north of Bukchon, which is unusual for a city center. The land south of the woods makes the site relatively warm in winter and provides good natural drainage. People here can also enjoy great views of Namsan Mountain from Bukchon.
The area encompasses neighborhoods like Gahoe-dong, Gye-dong, Samcheong-dong, Wonseo-dong, Jae-dong and Palpan-dong in terms of modern-day administrative units.
“Jangdokdae,” or traditional Korean crocks for sauces and condiments, sit in the backyard of Baek In-je House Museum
Cultural heritage of Bukchon
Bukchon is considered a living museum in the heart of the city, as it contains historical spots, important folklore and tangible cultural assets.
The area has maintained its shape and condition almost perfectly when you compare the site in today’s map to that of the historical materials like “Doseongdo” (1750), “Sujeon Jeondo” (1892) and “Gyeongseong Sigado” (1927). Major streets in Bukchon such as Gyedong-gil, Gahoe-ro, Samcheongdong-gil and Changdeokgung-gil have not changed their course since then.
Apart from cultural properties, there are a few unique sites in the village — quaint Gyedong-gil alleyway, the site of Seokjeong Full Moon Well where Korea’s first foreign missionary Ju Mun-mo baptized people with its water, the site of Joseon’s royal hospital Gwanghyewon and the former Jungangtang public sauna building are examples.
Across from Gyeongbokgung Palace, there are several galleries on Samcheongdong-gil and traditional restaurants and cafes on Hwadong-gil, providing cultural diversity to the neighborhood. In Wonseo-dong, tourists can find studios of traditional artists such as architects and painters welcoming people to feel the living history and value of Korean culture.
A part of a hanok in Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul, showcases characteristics of traditional Korean architecture.
Bukchon in nowadays
Bukchon turned into a place where contemporary society and tradition coexist in the 2000s, as the traditional houses adopted modern architectural elements.
The new style of hanok features steel and glass and ultra-modern minimal characteristics. They equip glass gates in daecheong, or wooden-floored halls, and extend the eaves with galvanized steel sheets.
Hanoks in Bukchon have two major characteristics — they adopt the evolved structuring method and stress the trends of decorative work. The low “mulmae” (the slope of the roof), “guldori” (round beams) and “gyeopcheoma” (double eaves) give the traditional houses a modern twist.
The area operates touristic businesses like cafeterias, boutiques, photo studios and galleries in hanok to attract visitors, which first started in Samcheong-dong and gradually spread all over the area. Bukchon became one of the favorite places for the young and old, Koreans and foreigners altogether.