From miniskirts to futurism: Fashion over the past 70 years
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By Yun Suh-young
In order to accurately describe the evolution of fashion after the nation’s liberation from Japan in 1945, it is important to first examine the fashion before the liberation.
Only a decade before Japan’s colonial rule began, the traditional fashion in Korea started to change. Since the late 1890s, after the Gabo Reform of 1894 was announced during the late Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910), Western-style attire slowly started to appear in the streets, coexisting with the “hanbok” or traditional Korean dress.
The first known fashion-related article appeared in the Dongnip Shinmun (Independence Newspaper) on May 26, 1896. The article discussed the changes in the clothing culture and the need for a measure to calm down the backlash against the government’s decision to allow short haircuts and Western suits.
When the Japanese colonial rule (1910-1945) began, modern suits became popular and those who wore them were called “modern boys” or “modern girls.” The “modern” boys’ pants were flared — they were fit around the hips and gradually flared down to the hem.
Many changes also happened in women’s fashion. Since the late 1920s, women started to wear seamless one-pieced skirts that were easy to move around in. In the 1930s, “beautiful woman with a bob haircut” was another phrase that became widely used as the bob and perm became trendy.
But as the colonial rule exerted a stronger influence on Korean society, fashion trend also changed to meet Japanese standards. Japan stressed retrenchment throughout the society and imposed a simplification of attires. Menswear became more lineal, and womenswear became longer. The phenomenon was an influence not only of Japanese fashion, but also of World War II (1939-1945).
After Japan surrendered to the Allied powers and the Japanese rule in Korea ended, both the country and its fashion were liberated.
After 1945
There aren’t many accounts of the fashion trends in Korea in the early 1950s, as the country was experiencing another traumatic event — the Korean War (1950-1953). After the war, fashion started becoming a topic of discussion again in the media.
When the South and North Koreas agreed to a ceasefire in 1953, European nations sent relief supplies to help rebuild the country. The goods flooding in from European countries drastically influenced the clothing culture in Korea.
Some of the menswear trends during this period were clothes dyed black, smuggled fabrics from Macao and Hong Kong and custom suits like those worn by the so-called “Macao gentlemen.”
In 1955, the term “designer” began to be used. The first generation of Korean designers consisted of Nora Noh, Seo Su-jeong, Suk Joo-seon and Choi Gyeong-ja.
The nation’s very first fashion show was held in 1956 at the Donghwa Department Store, now the Shinsegae Department Store, in Myeongdong, central Seoul. Myeongdong emerged as the mecca of Western-style clothing in the country at the time. Today, it is still the country’s central shopping district.
1960s
The 1960s was the golden age for the fashion industry not just in Korea but around the world. During this period, various clothing styles, including the miniskirt, emerged around the world, replacing traditional looks.
Model Twiggy became the style icon in the Western world during this period, creating a sensation with her bob and ultra-short A-line skirts. Korea had its own Twiggy in singer Yoon Bok-hee. At her debut fashion show, designer Park Yoon-jung introduced six miniskirts modeled by Yoon. The short skirts later became must-have items for women. As if girls were waiting for such clothing to be produced, women wearing miniskirts were seen everywhere.
The advent of these provocative skirts, which ended way above the thighs, prompted new regulations concerning the appropriate skirt lengths. Police stopped women on the streets at any time to measure the length of their skirts.
Therein addition, because these short skirts didn’t look good on everyone, flattering only younger women with petite figures, other styles and trends emerged that flattered women of all shapes and sizes. For example, there came hairstyles; large accessories, such as rings and watches; and brightly colored and patterned stockings, shoes and fabrics, all of which suited women with curvier physiques.
1970s
Coming into the 1970s, jeans became a fad. The “hippie” style that originated from the United States in the 1960s during the resistance to the Vietnam War, traveled across the globe to Korea, completely changing the look of Koreans. The long hair, beard and jeans that reflected the antiestablishment social atmosphere among young people in the Western world was also met with enthusiasm in Korea, which was undergoing its own anti-government phase at the time. The dictatorial regime imposed a social curfew at 12 a.m. and musicians were considered culprits for encouraging decadence. The curfew didn’t stop young people from sneaking behind soldiers and heading to “go-go clubs” to dance away the night.
Jeans were very popular — it was a fashionable staple among nightclub goers. The flare jeans worn by the first generation of rock singers also became popular among the public.
1980s
1980s fashion in Korea is well depicted in the Korean movie “Sunny,” which features the eponymous namesake song “Sunny” by Boney M.
The ‘80s fashion can be summed up as “unisex,” as styles that suited both genders became popular. In addition, the punk became cool among young people.
During this time, many developments significantly affected the fashion industry. The advent of color televisions, for example, played a huge role in changing consumer patterns, particularly in the clothing, shoe and cosmetics industries.
The liberalization of the dress code for students in 1983 also played a big role in developing the young fashion and casual fashion industries.
1990s
The 1990s created the neo-hippie look. Evolving from the '80s styles, ‘90s fashion was defined by the tomboy look for both sexes, consisting of jean jackets, basketball shoes and ripped jeans. Baggy pants and shirts were also considered fashionable, and so is the “incongruous” style, such as wearing a skirt over pants or a jean jacket over a flower-print dress with sneakers.
The icon of this period was singer Seotaji, who became a sensation in the still conservative society with his hip-hop style of music and outfits.
2000s
During the new millennium, a range of different styles emerged and coexisted with each other. The advent of the Internet brought about online shopping, which made products of global fashion brands more accessible. The World Wide Web also facilitated the spread of fashion trends across the globe, blurring the differences among regional styles.
The quality of fabrics improved, along with designers’ creative and unique styles that added value to products.
Singers and other entertainers played a big role in the spread of trends. Girl and boy bands cropped up as the next generation Seotaji, dominating the entertainment industry for the years to come. Groups such as Fin.K.L, S.E.S, H.O.T, G.O.D and Shinhwa became pop idols who influenced young people’s fashion.
The new millennium also reinterpreted retro styles as well as brought the “techno” style referring to technology and futurism. Minimalist, post-modernist and avant-garde looks also characterized the 2000s.