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INTERVIEW 'Cosmetics ODM's role is creating what's not out there yet,' Cosmax R&D head says
Director of Cosmax Makeup R&D Center Woo Young-hwa speaks in an interview with The Korea Times at the research center in Seongnam, Gyeonggi Province, Aug. 13. Courtesy of Cosmax
By Ko Dong-hwan
ODM sees gel-type products as next K-beauty trend
SEONGNAM, Gyeonggi Province — Cosmax, one of Korea’s largest beauty original development manufacturing (ODM) companies, has to stay ahead of market trends as it develops products for some 5,000 beauty brands worldwide. Working with clients ranging from major European labels to emerging boutique brands, the company seeks not just to follow demand but to help shape the next beauty trend.
A Cosmax R&D Center researcher mixes a sample formula for clients in this undated photo. Courtesy of Cosmax
At its research center in Seongnam, Gyeonggi Province, the company is working on what it hopes will be the next market breakthroughs. While many basic consumer needs and desires are relatively obvious, the paths to providing those solutions can be creative and innovative. According to Woo Young-hwa, director of the Cosmax Makeup R&D Center, there are three technologies currently under development that could emerge as major trends in the global beauty industry.
Gel-type formulas are one of the technologies Cosmax sees as potentially reshaping product lines. After introducing a gelatinous lipstick this summer that leaves little residue after use, Woo is now focusing on developing formulas that change texture or form upon contact with the skin.
The second technique Woo highlighted is an ultra-thin, high-adherence gel that spreads evenly into a thin coat that works particularly well for lip products. This allows for lipstick that does not wear off or dry the lips while maintaining lasting pigmentation.
Woo's third prospect is combining the makeup and skincare into a single product. She believes it will not be long before consumers will see foundation, lipstick and primer loaded with moisturizing and other skin conditioning effects.
“In the past, makeup technology focused on maximizing a single feature, such as color payoff, longevity or texture,” Woo said in an interview with The Korea Times at the company’s research center. “Today, products are expected to be lightweight and comfortable while lasting longer and offering benefits for the skin. Bringing all of these conflicting qualities together in a single formula has become a key challenge for the industry.”
These preemptive efforts to figure out what will trend ahead of a product launch are essential for an ODM like Cosmax. Since its establishment in 2014, the company has seen client demands evolve from simple production orders to requests for products that do not yet exist in the market.
At the Sample Library inside Cosmax R&D Center, analysts inspect products for clients in this undated photo. Courtesy of Cosmax
“An ODM’s job in the past was simple: developing the specific product they wanted. As time went by, we were asked to make what’s not out there yet, something unique. Now, our mission’s difficulty has gone up another notch to ‘find out what consumers will want,’” Woo said.
“Global brands are now shortening their product development cycles because they must gauge consumer responses online and turn them into products quickly. The future competitiveness of ODMs will go beyond how well they manufacture products. They will be required to anticipate the market ahead of their customers and proactively propose new products.”
To stay ahead of the trends, Cosmax analyzes vast amounts of data ranging from consumer reviews and market trends to ingredient performance, usability and production conditions. Woo said such analysis in the past relied largely on researchers’ experience but is increasingly being handled by artificial intelligence (AI).
She added that data analysis is particularly important in makeup development, where preferences for skin tones and colors vary widely across clients, regions and ethnic groups.
“In Japan, we’re building a new ODM model in which AI analyzes written orders from clients, prescribes cosmetic formulas and collects feedback from consumers," she said. "An ODM’s work will eventually be connected via a singular data cycle."
“Makeup ODM doesn’t end in producing cosmetic contents. It also involves developing applicators, packaging and devices to help consumers use our formulas more easily. PYXOH, our device that made hair dying easy and satisfying, is one example.”
While client lists for ODMs strictly remain confidential, Woo hinted that Cosmax’s clients are rapidly rising across North America, Indonesia and Thailand.