RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK I really love you Fatty Burger
A burger from Fatty Burger in southern Seoul's Gangnam District / Courtesy of Zack Wilson
When I first arrived in Seoul in October 2012, searching for a decent artisanal hamburger outside of the Itaewon area generally resulted in futility. In those days, the local burger industry was dominated by Big Box chains, offering once-frozen, ultra-processed, lukewarm patties that almost always came complete with a jambalaya of mystery sauces. This is no longer the case.
In just over a decade, Seoul’s burger scene has blossomed into the most vibrant in all of Asia. Fueled by a growing demand for delicious, affordable and often innovative creations, grillmasters across the city have laid down roots and are serving up some of the best sizzling beef on this side of the planet. And while fast food giants still dominate the city’s main drags and shopping centers, it is in the alleys and side streets that the nation’s foremost burgersmiths ply their trade.
One such hidden gem is Fatty Burger. This small, congenial joint adjacent to Bongeun Temple opened its doors in April 2024 and has quickly developed a reputation for having the best smash burgers in southern Seoul's Gangnam District. I knew I would be doing myself and the faithful readers of The Korea Times a huge disservice if I didn’t personally stop by to see if their offerings could live up to the hype.
I came through on a sunny Saturday afternoon and was met warmly by owner and burger aficionado Lee Chang-jae. After a quick scan of the limited menu, I selected their cheeseburger with an extra patty and grabbed a seat in the dining area. This is a bare-bones operation. Aside from a few scattered avant-garde posters, the store’s interior is quite basic. The picnic-style tables and handwritten menu boldly indicate that Lee lets the flavor do all the talking.
Fatty Burger in southern Seoul's Gangnam District has a simple menu. Courtesy of Zack Wilson
No sooner had I sat down to jot a few rough notes than my burger was laid before me. It certainly passed the eye test. The entire restaurant was permeated with the aroma of beef, and I could tell, without even taking the first bite, that this would be spectacular.
For those a little late to the party, smash patties are all the rage in 2025. Unlike conventional meat pucks, the beef in one of these gems is hand-pressed into a thin, wide patty, allowing for a crusty exterior while maintaining all the flavor of a regular burger.
The offerings at Fatty Burger are textbook. The beef was moist and juicy in the center but paper-thin and flaky around the edges. The twin patties had been pressed perfectly in proportion to the bun, which allowed for just the right amount of overhang. They’d been expertly seasoned, weren’t overly greasy and included a crack-laden, incendiary crust that encased all of the burger’s delightful serum.
The beef was held together by two slices of American orange, which, as every burger connoisseur knows, is the essential choice as it doesn’t crack like other cheeses. The bun was spongy, fresh and airy. It had a touch of sweetness and was lightly griddle-toasted, which added a satisfying crunch.
While it lacked a zesty orange sauce, the sandwich at Fatty Burger had all of the other key ingredients I look for in a quality smash burger. The taste easily justifies the mere 11,400 won price tag.
Fatty Burger in southern Seoul's Gangnam District / Courtesy of Zack Wilson
I asked Lee what owning and managing Fatty Burger for the last year has been like.
“The part I love most about running this place is welcoming customers back who say it was the best burger they've ever had. Fatty Burger is committed to being the kind of place that people crave more over time, where the burgers just get better with every visit,” he said.
A sizeable number of his clientele are repeat customers, with some being so satisfied with his product that they’ve kicked tires on the possibility of getting in on the action.
“I’ve received offers to franchise, and I'm currently exploring that idea,” he said with a smile. “Once my current location in Samseong-dong becomes more stable, I have plans for expansion.”
When asked why he thinks the quality of burgers in Seoul has improved so much in such a short period, he points to the sheer number of shops throughout the city. According to Lee, the level of competition has resulted in owners needing to outperform others in the taste department. “I believe this trend has raised the overall standard of burgers in Korea, and the local burger scene continues to evolve and improve,” he said.
Fatty Burger is open Mondays to Fridays from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and on Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Follow @fattyburger_seoul on Instagram for more information.
Zack Wilson is a Canadian food reviewer and freelance contributor to The Korea Times. He has written for several publications in both Korea and his motherland. His area of expertise is hamburgers, having dined at more than 250 privately owned burger shops in the Greater Seoul Area.