RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK Yene brings Ethiopian flavor, culture to Noryangjin
Mahberawi, a platter of various stews and vegetables on a bed of injera, a sour, fermented flatbread, is served at Yene Ethiopian Restaurant in southwestern Seoul's Noryangjin-dong, April 20. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
To most people, southwestern Seoul's Noryangjin is synonymous with seafood, once home to a beloved fisheries market that was demolished and replaced with one much less popular. But there's much more to the area — it is also the hub of Seoul's Ethiopian community. Sadly, large-scale urban renewal has led to their dispersal, but Ethiopians in Seoul keep returning to Noryangjin-dong. One place they gather is Yene Ethiopian Restaurant, an absolute gem of an eatery.
In a bustling alleyway, music drifts up from the basement of the building housing Yene. It's definitely not Korean, and it gets even louder as you descend the stairs. Is this a nightclub or a restaurant? Either way, it's a good time.
Yene's menu is helpful and well laid-out, with big color pictures of each item and written descriptions in English and Korean. There are separate pages for the breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, as well as snacks and two pages of vegetarian options.
Visiting on Easter Sunday, we were there for something not on the menu: kurt and kurt saga, two servings of raw beef typically enjoyed by Ethiopians on special occasions. The kurt consists of raw chunks of beef, intended for dipping in a spicy mustard sauce, while the kurt saga had a spicy but well-rounded marinade we thoroughly enjoyed. Although they were not listed on the menu, we were assured that the kurt and kurt saga are available on request at any time.
"We love sharing these dishes with anyone who’s curious or nostalgic for a taste of home," said Christina Kalayu, one of the owners.
Kurt and kurt saga, made of raw beef, are served with mustard at Yene Ethiopian Restaurant in southwestern Seoul's Noryangjin-dong, April 20. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
We also ordered mahberawi, a platter of various stewed meats and vegetables served on a bed of injera, a sour, fermented flatbread made from teff. Our vegetarian companion ordered a similar platter called beyaynetu, and it looked every bit as delectable as the meat-laden one. To a novice diner, there are so many different offerings that it can be hard to remember which is which. Fortunately, everything is so good, an adventurous eater will be rewarded. As is customary with Ethiopian dining, we were provided no utensils, instead urged to eat with our (freshly washed) hands.
The vegetarian beyaynetu platter is served at Yene Ethiopian Restaurant in southwestern Seoul's Noryangjin-dong, April 20. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
I felt like a culturally insensitive idiot for acknowledging that the presentation of the food reminded me somewhat of Indian cuisine. But many people have enthusiastically pointed out the myriad similarities between Ethiopian and Indian cuisines, which may be attributed to the deep roots between the two countries going back to ancient times.
Luckily, Ethiopian food makes great leftovers, the flavors deepening and developing with a little time. One friend took home the raw beef and cooked it the next day, resulting in a wonderfully smokey, flavorful and spicy dish.
Although the restaurant serves beer, it's worth trying tej, a honey wine served in a flask-like pitcher called a berele. One bottle costs 5,000 won and is easily enough for four to five full glasses. Typically made at home with honey and a medicinal shrub called gesho, it is easy to drink — maybe a little too easy. The flavor reminded me of some traditional Korean brewed beverages, not far off from some cheongju (clear or filtered alcohol) I've tried, with what I thought tasted a bit like rice.
Tej, an Ethiopian honey wine, is served at Yene Ethiopian Restaurant in southwestern Seoul's Noryangjin-dong, April 20. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
Ethiopia is known for its coffee, but while many Ethiopian beans are available in coffee shops in Korea, few of them are quite like what we had here. Tsion, who co-owns and operates Yene with her sister Christine, began ceremoniously roasting a small pot of coffee beans over an open flame. The taste was different from anything else I've tried in Korea, both delicate and robust, remarkably fresh but with a hint of smoke. Although it is not listed on the menu, Christina assured us the coffee is also available any time, although it takes a while to prepare.
Tsion Kalayu roasts coffee beans in a traditional ceremony at Yene Ethiopian Restaurant in southwestern Seoul's Noryangjin-dong, April 20. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
The restaurant opened in 2019 or 2020, but it has gone through multiple owners. Christina and Tsion have been running Yene together since 2023.
"We’ve both been passionate about Ethiopian cuisine for as long as we can remember — it’s something deeply rooted in our family and culture," Christina told The Korea Times. "Most of our skills come from home: cooking with our family, learning traditional methods and really understanding the meaning behind each dish."
Yene Ethiopian Restaurant is open from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day of the week except Wednesday. Follow @yeneethiopian on Instagram or @yne.ethiopian.rest on TikTok for more information.