Photographer examines Jongno 3-ga beyond its 'coolest neighborhood' tag

Before Jongno 3-ga claimed the top spot in Time Out's list of the "world’s coolest neighborhoods" in September, its bustling, vibrant streets filled with street food stalls and busy shops have long stood witness to its reputation as one of Seoul’s hippest hangout spots.

But beyond this trendy landscape, photographer Park Kwang Bok’s attention gravitated towards the area’s more precarious yet intimate side. For his exhibitions titled “Earthly Paradise” and “Nights in Paradise” — both opening Tuesday — the artist explored the neighborhood’s gritty, hidden corners in search of narratives of joy, companionship and freedom.

“Earthly Paradise” displays scenes of companionship and moments of happiness among the homeless despite their difficult circumstances. Featuring black-and-white photographs, the showcase seeks to “lift the veil of social prejudice and reveal the joy, tenderness and dignity that often go unnoticed.”

Meanwhile, “Nights in Paradise” explores the lives of gay men who gather around Jongno 3-ga, portraying the community’s humanity, relationships, emotions and dignity.

This latest exhibition series stemmed from his earlier 2018 documentary work, “Janggi Heaven,” in which he photographed elderly people playing “janggi,” or Korean chess, around Tapgol Park. During subsequent visits to Jongno 3-ga, his interest gradually shifted toward the area’s homeless community, with whom he formed friendships over time.

“I saw moments when, despite living on the streets, they danced, smiled and found happiness. Rather than focusing on hardship and suffering as other photographers have done, I wanted to photograph the joy in their lives,” Park said. “‘Nights in Paradise’ grew out of those encounters.”

Among the individuals he met during these excursions are gay men who refer to themselves as “iban.” The term is a play on “ilban,” meaning “common” or “ordinary.” While “il” means “one” or “first,” “iban” replaces it with the Sino-Korean “i,” meaning “two” or “second,” while retaining “ban,” meaning “group” or “class.” The term is used to describe nonnormative sexualities regardless of an individual’s sexual orientation.

“One of the friends I made among the people experiencing homelessness was gay," the photographer said. "Through him, I began visiting gay nightlife venues, where I heard many stories about love, betrayal and the judgment people faced from society. Those encounters gave shape to the project.”

Over the years, Park developed friendships with the men who identified as “iban,” gradually earning their trust and gaining insights into their lives through his lens.

Through this project, he hopes that visitors will meet these images with acceptance and an open mind.

“In Korea, where sexual minorities struggle for social acceptance, I wanted to understand their difficulties, their experiences of love and separation, and convey something of their inner lives to the wider public with warmth and empathy,” he explained. “I also hope they see the comfort and joy these people create together.”

“Nights in Paradise” is on view until Oct. 29 at Gallery Bresson in Chungmuro, while “Earthly Paradise” runs until Nov. 1 at Gallery Pohang in North Gyeongsang Province.

Following these exhibitions, the series continues with “The Desire of the Horse-Headed Man.” Centered on a fictional figure Park calls the “Horse-Headed Man,” the exhibition examines humanity’s relationship with nature and the contradictions of technological progress. The work draws inspiration from Steven Spielberg’s 2001 science fiction film “A.I. Artificial Intelligence.”

“The Desire of the Horse-Headed Man” will be featured at the 10th Photography Island Songdo event, which brings together 50 participating photographers. The three-day art fair will run from Oct. 30 to Nov. 1 at the Commodore Hotel Pohang.

All exhibitions are free of charge. Follow @parkgwangbok7575 on Instagram for more information about his works and upcoming projects.

Mariel Abanes (@marielabanes on Instagram) is a freelance lifestyle & culture writer/editor from the Philippines, currently based in Seoul. She promotes indie music and culture, and writes poetry and prose from time to time.