my timesThe Korea Times

Robert Neff

Contributor

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.

Go to Email

Read more

Opinion

When rumors turn deadly (1): Demons in the wood

For farmers, rain is spiritual. It was believed that precipitation will come at a certain time of the year, and in sufficient quantity to sustain life. Their existence depended on it, and when it failed to fall, famine and death often followed. In the spring of 1924, the rain did not come to the southern part of the peninsula. Nor did it come in the summer. A warm, dry wind blew from the southeast, and the heat became unbearable. The once-luxurious rice paddies became barren stretches of parched, cracked earth. What the drought spared was devoured by swarms of hungry insects. The people suffered. Drinking water was scarce, and the price of rice rose sharply, further exacerbating the misery. Roots, stems and even bark became many people’s daily diet. Beggars roamed the countryside in search of food. But not all of the peninsula suffered from drought. In bitter contrast, the northern Hwanghae Province was ravaged by floods. To the superstitious, the calamity that gripped the peninsula was the result of the gods’ displeasure. Many reasons were given for this anger. Perhaps the offerings

Oct 25, 2025By Robert Neff
When rumors turn deadly (1): Demons in the wood
Opinion

The Korean emperor and the 'American Princess' part 3: Emma Kroebel

Alice Roosevelt, “the American Princess,” wasn’t the only unofficial royal to grace the Korean court in the early 1900s. There was also Antoinette Sontag, known as “the uncrowned empress of Korea.” Unlike Roosevelt, who was merely a visitor, Sontag ruled over the imperial household staff — especially when it came to entertaining palace guests. “She sits in state, concealed from the eyes of the guests behind a traditional Korean screen or an ornate curtain, from which point she controls everything," said Emma Kroebel, the wife of a German merchant in Tsingtao, China. "A nod from her suffices to mobilize the entire retinue of imperial servants whose assistance is usually offered on such occasions.” The uncrowned empress of Korea never met the American princess, as Sontag was in Europe on a year-long leave of absence. In her place, Kroebel, 32 years old at the time, temporarily assumed the position as “Imperial Mistress of Court Ceremonies” in 1905. There is almost nothing written about Kroebel in American correspondence or diplomatic despatches, and her stay in Korea w

Oct 19, 2025By Robert Neff
The Korean emperor and the 'American Princess' part 3:  Emma Kroebel
Opinion

The Korean Emperor and the American Princess: Part 2

Throughout the world, dinners have long been popular for discussing business and politics, and Korea was no exception. Having arrived in Seoul on September 20, 1905, Alice Roosevelt, the 21-year-old daughter of American President Theodore Roosevelt, was honored the following day with a banquet at the palace hosted by Emperor Gojong. Willard Straight, a member of the American legation in Seoul, recorded the occasion in vivid and denigrating detail. He noted that Alice was “treated with more consideration than has ever been shown to visiting royalty before.” Straight described how “the Emperor brought [the young American woman] in on his arm and sat at the same table with her.” The Crown Prince was also present, presiding over his own table. Straight himself was seated at a smaller table, “sandwiched in with prominent Korean officials, many of whom had by special order of the Emperor got themselves into European clothes for the first time and who certainly did look, and from their appearance feel, like Hell.” Amused by the discomfort of his Korean counterparts, Straight noneth

Oct 7, 2025By Robert Neff
The Korean Emperor and the American Princess: Part 2
Opinion

Korean emperor and American princess: Part 1

In the summer of 1905, Korea’s political situation was dire. The Russo-Japanese War ended on Sept. 5 with the signing of the Treaty of Portsmouth, but Korea’s continued existence as an independent country was in jeopardy. Its military was weak, and though it had treaties with several foreign governments, it was doubtful that any would come to Korea’s aid in its hour of need. What Korea desperately needed was a popular figure in the West who could champion its cause — especially to the American president. Fortune seemed to be with Korea. A large American delegation made up of congressmen, senators, businessmen and their wives was touring China, Japan, the Philippines and Hawaii. Part of the group planned to visit Korea. Even more remarkable, Alice Roosevelt, the 21-year-old daughter of American President Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt was among them. She and her party were scheduled to arrive at Jemulpo (modern-day Incheon) on Sept. 19. According to Williard D. Straight, the 25-year-old American vice consul in Seoul, the Koreans were desperate and grasping at anything that might

Sep 21, 2025By Robert Neff
Korean emperor and American princess: Part 1
Opinion

Guardians of past harvests: Korea’s watchtowers

The fields and orchards of Korea in the late summer and fall are a kaleidoscope of colors and bountiful produce — and a great temptation. As a young boy in the United States, I often fell victim to that temptation when my siblings and I went fishing. We would raid nearby orchards for handfuls of cherries, crisp red apples and soft, juicy pears. I am sure we knew we were in the wrong, but I suspect the orchard owners somewhat expected to be raided and tolerated our indiscretions so long as we didn’t cause damage and ate what we plundered. Perhaps they even remembered their own youth, when they too had pilfered an apple or two. Today, it isn’t like that — signs warn trespassers that they will be prosecuted. Many decades ago, when I first arrived in Korea as a young soldier stationed in Gangwon Province, I was surprised to discover that many, if not most, of the fields had small elevated platforms from which farmers carefully guarded their crops day and night. They were everywhere, yet rarely mentioned in early writings by Western visitors to the peninsula. In 1923, Harry A. Franck

Sep 7, 2025By Robert Neff
Guardians of past harvests: Korea’s watchtowers
Opinion

Chickens, dogs and summer heat

Saturday is "malbok," the last of the three traditionally hottest days of summer. In the past, many Koreans believed in fighting the heat with foods associated with heat, such as samgyetang, a Korean dish made from chicken and ginseng. That tradition lives on to this day, and restaurants serving it will be packed. Many years ago, when I first came to Korea, I was a fairly picky eater. My Korean friends — especially my "hyeong" (older brothers) — took it upon themselves to teach me about Korean culture, especially food. Among us, there was a rule that we each had to try everything at least once. In my opinion, it was a pretty one-sided rule since almost everything we ate was Korean. Still, it was an adventure I am glad I undertook. One of these foods was samgyetang. To me, there is nothing appealing about it. Visually and taste-wise, it is bland. I can still remember them laughing with me (or rather, at me) when I promptly declared it to be “chicken bathwater.” Don’t get me wrong — I love Korean chicken. As a young man, I ate platefuls of chicken gizzards and feet in neighborh

Aug 10, 2025By Robert Neff
Chickens, dogs and summer heat
Opinion

Mt. Bukhan in the 1890s: An escape from Seoul’s heat

Seoul is extremely hot and uncomfortable during the summer. In the 1990s, there weren’t as many high-rise apartments as there are now, and a large part of the population lived in neighborhoods of small, closely packed buildings and townhouses. Many of these homes did not have the luxury of air conditioning and depended upon open windows and electric fans for relief. While open windows allowed cooling breezes to enter, they were also open invitations to one of the most annoying pests of the summer — mosquitoes. It was a no-win situation: close the windows and suffer in the stifling heat, or open them and contend with the blood-sucking, buzzing nightmares that even mosquito coils could not keep at bay. And all of it was made worse by the humidity. A century earlier, summers in Seoul may have been even worse. In a letter home in late July 1893, Sallie Swallen, an American missionary, wrote: “The weather has been very warm now for one week almost every day the thermometer has stood at 88 & 90 [Fahrenheit, or about 31 or 32 degrees Celsius] in our sitting room, and of course much warme

Jul 28, 2025By Robert Neff
Mt. Bukhan in the 1890s: An escape from Seoul’s heat
Opinion

Beautiful drudgery: Laundry in old Korea

For many people, laundry is one of the most dreaded household chores. It is often described as a mind-numbing, tedious and neverending task: Load it into the washing machine, then the dryer, then sort and fold everything by hand. But in the past, it was even worse. When I was a boy, I often watched my grandmother do the laundry. I remember when she used a washboard, scrubbing each piece by hand. Later, when times were financially a bit better, my grandfather obtained an ancient wringer washer to ease her labor. The “modern” contraption had a tub where the clothes were agitated, and above it, a hand-cranked wringer through which she fed the clothes before hanging them on the line to dry. For her, laundry was an all-day affair. The same held true for Korea. In the late 1880s, George W. Gilmore, an American teacher, described the daily lives of Korean women in his letters home and his book. He acknowledged that cooking and preserving food for the larder took time, but claimed these tasks “occupied a modicum of the Korean wife’s time. Her most wearing and incessant labor [was] at t

Jun 27, 2025By Robert Neff
Beautiful drudgery: Laundry in old Korea
Opinion

Seoul’s ancient ‘Liberty Bell’

In the summer of 1952, Seoul was a vortex of destruction and rebuilding as the war raged on to the north. Stationed with the American military in Seoul, Lt. Col. John Q. Timbrell was no stranger to the horrors of war. Years earlier, he had served on the military tribunal that tried Nazi war criminals at the infamous Dachau concentration camp in Germany — a place he described as a “murder factory.” In an account published in his hometown newspaper, Timbrell explained that Seoul had once been a walled city with eight gates: four main gates named after the cardinal directions and four smaller gates — also named after the cardinal directions, such as Small North Gate or Small West Gate. But that was in the past. The city wall, no longer serving any use, had long ago disappeared. Only “two of the gates remain intact today as mementoes of the past,” he observed. There was another remnant associated with the gates — the great bell. Timbrell claimed that in 1380, every family in Seoul who could afford it donated a small amount of metal for its construction. The collected metal wa

Jun 8, 2025By Robert Neff
Seoul’s ancient ‘Liberty Bell’
Opinion

The fifth day of the fifth moon: 3 holidays warding off evil

In the first week of June 1889, Korea was awash with festive preparations as three nationalities marked different holidays on the third day of the month (the fifth day of the fifth moon on the lunar calendar). The Chinese observed "Duanwu," honoring the patriotic statesman Qu Yuan, who drowned himself in despair over the corruption surrounding him. The Japanese celebrated "Tango no Sekku," a festival for boys meant to ward off evil spirits and promote strength and good health. Koreans observed "Dano," a day to appease and drive away malevolent spirits. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find any firsthand accounts of the 1889 celebrations, but we can imagine the streets filled with colors — red being the most prominent. All across the city, crude ghostly faces with red mouths and tongues were drawn and pasted to walls to frighten off evil. In the Japanese districts of Seoul, Jemulpo (modern Incheon), Fusan (modern Busan) and Wonsan, bright banners shaped like carp fluttered over the homes of Japanese families with young sons. There were many similarities in these three celebratio

May 31, 2025By Robert Neff
The fifth day of the fifth moon: 3 holidays warding off evil
previous page
12345
next page

Top 5 stories

Korea Times
About Us
Introduction
History
Contact Us
Products & Services
Subscribe
E-paper
RSS Service
Content Sales
Site Map
Policy
Code of Ethics
Ombudsman
Privacy Policy
Youth Protection Policy
Terms of Service
Copyright Policy
Family Site
Hankookilbo
Dongwha Group
FacebookXYoutubeInstagram
CEO & Publisher: Oh Young-jinDigital News Email: webmaster@koreatimes.co.krTel: 02-724-2114Online newspaper registration No: 서울,아52844Date of registration: 2020.02.05Masthead: The Korea TimesCopyright © koreatimes.co.kr. All rights reserved.