RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK Restaurant serves Puck’n good smash burgers
A burger at Puck'n Onion / Courtesy of Zack Wilson
Seoul’s northeastern corner had stood out until recently as one of the few areas of the city to not become completely overrun with burger joints. For whatever reason, Western fare here has yet to catch on the way it has in hip locales like Mangwon, Gangnam and Mullae. Older neighborhoods in Seongbuk and Jungnang districts are still predominantly lined with eateries serving local dishes. Nonetheless, one upstart diner is going against the grain in hopes of reshaping the area’s culinary landscape.
Just a hop, skip and jump from Anam Station on Seoul Metro Line 6 lies Puck’n Onion. This tidy, unassuming eatery, hidden in one of the quarter’s many winding alleys, has created quite the buzz since opening its doors in spring 2022.
As far as burger joints go, Puck’n Onion is an average-sized operation. It boasts an open concept dining area, ample seating and a back-of-house grill. The walls are adorned with minimal decoration, and the front of the shop is as basic as can be. Gimmicks aren’t paramount to the dining experience here.
I recently paid my first visit in the midst of an afternoon rush. As is the case with most Seoul sandwich saloons, lunch is their busiest time of day, so the prospect of securing a seat was somewhat concerning. However, as luck would have it, a satisfied couple was on their way out as I came through the door, leaving a table vacant.
A quick perusal of their burger menu revealed a mere four options. To some, this may be off-putting. However, in my experience, places with limited menus generally have each item down to an art and don’t feel the need to mess with perfection.
The menu at Puck'n Onion / Courtesy of Zack Wilson
All orders at Puck’n Onion need to be placed at the counter, and it was there that I settled on their BBQ Double Burger. It set me back a mere 10,500 won, an absolute steal when you consider other joints throughout the city are charging twice that for similar-sized offerings.
While returning my card to my wallet, I got my first peek at owner and head chef Shim Jae-yong. He’s not only the brainchild behind this entire operation, but also the man responsible for personally grilling each and every patty Puck’n Onion has ever served. He and I would speak postmeal, but for now, I was focused on the task at hand.
Within minutes of assuming my seat, Shim’s masterpiece arrived, ready to be smashed (pun intended).
The vast majority of food reviewers will concede that first impressions are vital to their judgment. For me, taste can salvage any meal’s lack of presentation, but I have no objections to a well put-together plate. So when my redolent and aesthetically pleasing sandwich was laid before me, I knew I was in for a delectable experience.
The bun halves were fluffy yet dense, with a crunchy exterior that encased a moist, chewy center. They had been griddle-toasted in a thin layer of beef fat, resulting in crisp faces and a beautiful brown ring around the circumferences.
Two slices of standard processed American cheese had been melted over the two all-beef patties. Nothing flashy about them, but they got the job done.
The meat pucks had been prepared smash-style — pressed with force, resulting in decent bun overhang, but still a considerable amount of girth towards the center. The flaky edges made for a perfectly uneven perimeter, and the heat-induced exterior cracked open when met with the slightest bite force. Both had been expertly seasoned, were thoroughly cooked and contained just the right amount of grease. There is very little that could have been done to make these smash patties any better.
An added layer of protein came in the form of flawlessly griddled, thin-cut, chopped, Western-style bacon that had been strategically placed throughout the tower of meat. They were aromatic, sapid and the salt content allowed them to preside over the other ingredients.
Two sauces tied the whole sandwich together: a zesty orange aioli and a sweet and smoky traditional southern BBQ. The mayo-based dressing provided a flavorful kick that stuck around even after each bite had been swallowed, while the sticky BBQ offered a honeyed sweetness that counterbalanced the lingering spice of the orange.
Without a doubt, this was one of the sharpest burgers I’ve encountered in the city. It wasn’t just a visual work of art, it was downright luscious.
After devouring said glory, I made my way to the back of the house to speak with the mastermind himself. As heavenly wafts of fragrant meat breezed through my hair, I asked Shim what inspired him to open Puck’n Onion. He told me, “After working for about 10 years as a menu developer at a major domestic franchise company, I felt the urge to create something of my own using the recipes I’m most confident in.”
Although Shim has never lived abroad, he has spent a considerable amount of time traveling. He feels that many Koreans are just like him in that they desire exploration of new — and often foreign — flavors. As he puts it, “After the early 2000s wellness trend, Korean palates started shifting toward bolder, more stimulating flavors, partly influenced by overseas travel. Around the mid-2000s, we saw the rise of Japanese-style fusion burgers — thick patties with Asian-inspired sauces — which eventually gave way to more local-style smash burgers. The smash burger trend especially caught on with young adults and older generations who had lived or traveled abroad, helping burgers become widely accepted and loved in Korea.”
While saying opening additional locations of Puck’n Onion in the future is a possibility, Shim he is content with his current store for now. “We’re still a small and humble burger shop, but we’re having a lot of fun running it.”
Puck'n Onion / Courtesy of Zack Wilson
Puck’n Onion is located about a two-minute walk from Exit 3 of Anam Station. It is open Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Follow @pucknonion on Instagram for more information.
Zack Wilson has written for several publications in both Korea and Canada. His area of expertise is hamburgers, having dined at more than 250 privately owned burger shops in the greater Seoul area.