RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK Freshness is key at Be Kind Banh Mi
Be Kind Banh Mi in central Seoul, Aug. 31 / Courtesy of Ana Roa
Banh mi literally translates to bread, and at Be Kind Banh Mi, the bread is aptly the star — crisp but light and airy baguettes made fresh daily.
The decision to bake bread from scratch was made after realizing that buying baguettes in Korea was too expensive, said Be Kind co-owner Jung Hae-jun, who had spent six years in Melbourne’s dining scene before returning home and opening the sandwich bar together with two friends.
Banh mi sandwiches at Be Kind Banh Mi in central Seoul / Courtesy of Ana Roa
Tucked along a narrow street between Chungmuro and Euljiro 3-ga stations, Be Kind offers street-side dining with tables and stools beneath a red and white striped awning, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of the street food culture I witnessed during a backpacking trip to Vietnam some 10 years ago.
I went with a Vietnamese friend on my first visit to Be Kind. While I’ve eaten bánh mì several times, there's no better critic than someone from Vietnam, the country where the dish originated. We initially ordered the crispy pork bánh mì and lemongrass chicken bánh mì, a personal favorite, but sadly it is no longer on the menu.
Each sandwich consisted of the baguette slathered with condiments that packed a distinct umami flavor, then filled with well-seasoned meat and tangy vegetables. The fillings’ flavor combinations and the pleasant texture of the bread, crusty without cutting the inside of your mouth, left us wanting more. We ended up ordering the BBQ pork banh mi while waiting for the rain to let up.
Besides the bread, other ingredients that go into the sandwiches, such as the mayonnaise, liver pate and pickled vegetables, are all made in-house, adding a taste of freshness in every bite.
Inspired by Australia’s diverse culinary scene, Be Kind highlights the flexibility of banh mi with its sandwiches that incorporate flavors not only from Vietnam but also influences from other countries in Southeast Asia. For example, the spicy chicken banh mi is enhanced with Indonesian sambal sauce, also made in-house, while the crispy pork filling is prepared using a method for cooking lechon kawali, a Filipino pork belly dish known for its crispy skin and moist meat.
Be Kind’s menu has evolved since my first visit a year ago, and one of the recent additions is the Be Kind combo sandwich, which is a mix of their signature ragu sauce and crispy pork. There is also a vegetarian variant for those who prefer a meatless banh mi, while smashed potato and tempeh are offered as side dishes.
During my most recent visit, Be Kind hosted a pop-up event which featured a refreshing peach gazpacho from a guest cook and a trial of a new sandwich flavor — crispy chicken banh mi that was filled with the juiciest fried chicken topped with roasted red cabbage, onions and pickled peppers.
Jung Hae-jun, left, poses with his co-owners at Be Kind Banh Mi / Courtesy of Ana Roa
At Be Kind Banh Mi, there is always something new to look forward to. The owners recognize the versatility of banh mi and are eager to try the countless ways to make this beloved sandwich stand out.
Be Kind Banh Mi is open Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and on Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Follow @bekind_banhmi on Instagram for more information.
Ana Roa worked as a news researcher in the Philippines before moving to Seoul to pursue a master’s degree in international studies at Korea University.